Here is the problem: I lined up the TDC marks on the cam gear, distributor cap and fly wheel. The notch on the crank shaft pully doesn't line up with the mark (It is a nipple) on the oil pump housing! It's like 30 to 40 degrees off.

Here is what I did: This is the way the engine were when I bought the car 3 weeks ago. So when I changed the timing belt last week, I decided to let it be this way for now.

Here is what I am thinking now: The crank shaft pully can only fit onto the crank shaft in one fixed angle because there is a notch on the shaft where the pully fits. The fly wheel could be rotated in some angle and still fits onto the shaft (am I right here?). So I think the mark on the crank shaft pully is the one I should go with to set the TDC in my case. I know the former owner had the transmittion rebuilt. But I am not sure they also took off the fly wheel at that time.

Any thoughts?

Line up the mark on the crankshaft pulley and then check the mark on cam shaft, distributor and fly wheel. If they are off try rotating the crankshaft 360 degree and then check the alignment again. Remember this is a four stroke engine and TDC does not means the engine is on a power stroke.

How is the car running right now??

The maximum boost I get is 1.1 bar. So that should related to the lack of power. I haven't locate the reason for that. I am trying to exhaust the low boost checking list on SJM site.

If the timing is off (I don't know 40 degree off should have kill the engine or not), then that should give less power and consume a lot of fuel. So far I get about 25 MPG on highway. That is about right for the auto trany.

I checked the 360 degree rotation of the crank shaft when I was in there. The mark on the crank shaft pully is always out of alignment with the other 3.

If I take off the timing belt, rotate the crank shaft, when the o mark on the fly wheel lines up with the mark on the housing, then the notch on the crank shaft pully should line up with the mark on the oil pump housing. In my case it doesn't. My problem is which one should I trust to set the timing, the fly wheel or the crank pully.

I guess I can do another test. Set the cam gear and distributor to the TDC mark, take out #1 spark plug, see if the piston is at its top position.

First off all, if the timing is off by a single tooth of the timing belt there should be noticable lack of power. Not to mention "30 to 40 degrees"; the engine simple would not start. Bear in mind that the 'phase advance' between two firing cylinders is 144deg!

Also, the tool that holds the crank shaft while one loosens the infamous 450Nm bolt fits just in a fixed angle and therefore defines TDC. Unless your crank shaft pulley is all wrong, I suspect that there is some missunderstanding where its TDC mark is supposed to align up to...

Cheers,

Kai

Good idea. That sounds like the only way you'll know for sure. Just make sure you get it as close to TDC as you can. Use a long, thin flat blade srcewdriver to "feel" when the piston is at TDC ( and a flashlight, of course). Good luck.

On my 4kq about 3-4 weeks ago. Car started up in the morning, then just died within 5 seconds. It sat for a week or so before I gave up on trying to figure out why it wouldnt start, and I was getting fuel and spark! Flatbedded the car to Audi, and turns out the timing belt was REALLY loose, and timing was off by 3 notches. No wonder the car felt sluggish, and its how I purchased the car. Ive never dealt with timing personally, but could figure it out, maybe.

Mike

It might be wise to include that the piston should be at TDC on the compression stroke.

Need someone with their finger in the spark plug hole to tell if it is the compression stroke.

Cheers