...I wanna do it for my FMIC install, but I dunno where under there to lift it without breaking something. Anyone got a picture that might help out?

...is that you DO NOT want to do a lift like that, because it can break the windshield.

Symmetrical lifts for when you want one end of the car in the air is the ticket, according to my understanding.

But if your windshield cracks when you lift the car up with a floor jack at the lift point, then your Audi has some major problems.

Never had any problems.

LOL.

...am I to understand that *everyone but me* lifts up their cars at the jacking points, and doesn't do symmetric lifts? When I did my rear brakes, I jacked the diff, and it was damn nice when I let the car down later.

Seriously, the windshield is a structural member in these cars. Putting assymmetric stress on tempered glass is a Bad Thing(tm).

You've cut out the floorboards so that you can use your feet, Fred?

and lift. What's so amazing?

If you are worried about putting too much stress on the glass by lifting higher than a typical tire change you can lift one side just high enough to get a jack stand under then lift the other side and go back and forth untill you have the front up high enough.

Or you could just go buy a cheapo 2nd jack.

Just dig a ditch in front and underneath the car to give you enough room to work under it. This way the dampening action of your suspension and tires will prevent your windshield from breaking. LMAO.

It's when you start lifting on the OTHER side - that wasn't intended.

OK, I'll figure it out myself and get back to you guys. But hell, if everyone has been jacking sequentially and not breaking anything...

You lift it up by hand and throw a boulder underneath.

Sheesh.

You know, to go out and get dino-burgers.

and slip the boulder under the oil pan. That way I don't have to worry about my windshield busting.

Seriously I've never had a problem jacking at the jack points. (now I'm cursed)

Whenever I'm working on my FMIC. They put the FMIC at just about a 5 gallon paint container above the ground.

Hap, wit dakine FMIC info not from Evahboost, Maguire

Ramps I have. I was thinking ahead to my BBK job...

my B5S4's lift points were wide enough to do a jack and jackstand side-by-side. not the UrS :-/

A correct statement - but - implying a C4 body twists whilst jacking from a single jack point - to apply said stress - is simply comical. Any of us who enjoy 'spirited' driving apply far more stress almost daily. (HP not a factor here.)

May happen on some fine product from Detroilet or Korea...

Me? I put the floor jack under the center of the xover to raise the front of the car - both wheels up. Then - stands under the jack points or outside of the xover - depending on what I am doing. No problemmo - dude.

Or - under a front jack point to rotate tires.

Last time I jacked the car at a lift point, both of the tires on that side came off the ground. But the tire nearest the jack came off more.

It does twist. But I'm getting the idea nobody worries about it. Except me. LOL.

X-over? You have a picture of this X-over?

Thanks!

try opening your doors when you have the car lifted by the jack point, with both wheels off the ground. the doors open (or should open) just fine, and close almost perfectly. the chassis does flex, but only slightly. the reason one wheel lifts higher than the other is because the suspension on the opposite side compresses in reaction to the corner you are lifting, and also because the front and rear suspensions have different droop characteristics.
honestly I wouldn't worry about it. I jack up one front corner at a time, and put stands under each side. then I lift the entire rear by putting the jack under the diff, and put stands on both sides. no problems so far.

Thanks for the advice, folks.

And for all you living in Bedrock - stay away from my car, mmkay?

<center><img src="http://www.anyboard.net/gov/mil/anyboard/uploads/FMIC_install_halfway.jpg"></center><p>I use the factory jack points to jack up the car with a floor jack.