Trouble with brake pad wear sensor
#1
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Trouble with brake pad wear sensor
When I bought my S6 the brake pad wear indicator would come on intermitently, but now it has been on continuously despite the pads being plenty thick.
I checked the pins on the RF and found 12v on one and ~1v on the other. This seems odd. I checked the LF and found nothing on the same pin that had 12v on the other side and ~1v on the other pin just like on the RF. My guess is a broken wire between the auto check and the sensor connector.
I tried faking out the sensor by supplying 12v to the pad connector directly from the fuse panel, but the light stays on. I can't fake out the sensor by sorting it out across the connector if there is not 12v getting to it from the auto check. Simply supplying 12v from another source doesn't work. Any ideas? Tracing the wire from the auto check to the pad connector looking for the broken wire does not sound like fun.
I checked the pins on the RF and found 12v on one and ~1v on the other. This seems odd. I checked the LF and found nothing on the same pin that had 12v on the other side and ~1v on the other pin just like on the RF. My guess is a broken wire between the auto check and the sensor connector.
I tried faking out the sensor by supplying 12v to the pad connector directly from the fuse panel, but the light stays on. I can't fake out the sensor by sorting it out across the connector if there is not 12v getting to it from the auto check. Simply supplying 12v from another source doesn't work. Any ideas? Tracing the wire from the auto check to the pad connector looking for the broken wire does not sound like fun.
#2
Does this help?
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/66084/brakewear.jpg">
The method of last resort is to ground the brake wear signal wire in the instrument cluster wiring harness.
The method of last resort is to ground the brake wear signal wire in the instrument cluster wiring harness.
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That helps. I didn't consider that the pads could be wired in series.
My measurements with the volt meter make sense now. I'll have to double check the voltage at the LF wheel with the RF sensor plugged in. It would make sense that I didn't get 12v at the LF if the RF sensor was unplugged.
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