sk88erguy

the little boot on it is cracked, dont know if its called a ball joint but the passanger side is broken. how hard is it to replace those?

i guess i didnt have to pop them out to get my boots done but i did because i had to on my 5000 so i guess i just did it without thinking...

Thanks to all that helped me.

quattro20v

available as a separate part.

sk88erguy

let me get a pic, i think u are thinking the wrong joint. 1 sec.

jjm's quattro

the ball joint boots aren't listed for the S-cars - but the boots from the 5000 fit - easy R&R

sk88erguy

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/58485/audi_5000_007.jpg"></center><p>

sk88erguy

if i didnt take the tranny side off first? cause i left that side on. i know it doesnt matter now but for future refference

jjm's quattro

yes but need to unbolt it at the tranny - very easy and allows you to work on it at a bench

sk88erguy

i figure thats easier than leavign it on and using the bolt trick to take the joint off.

getting that ball joint loose is not easy, takes a lot of weight and pounding lol.

How important is it i replace that broken booted ball joint soon?

quattro20v

If the joint is worn, then replace the whole arm.

Bill the Cat

Here are the 5K P/N's from ETKA - and the $$$ from Impex.

Protective cap 431 407 377 A (gulp) $23.49 (CORRECTED!)
431 407 383 A Locking ring (lower) $2.77
431 407 384 A Locking ring (upper) $1.43

Anyone that can find better $$ please tell us!

I nicked mine a couple of years ago - sealed with wet suit glue (Aquaseal) - and it has been perfect ever since. - but - I would rather replace the boots.

If you seal the same way - you must get the solvent (Cotol) as well - it 'primes' the rubber you are gluing (removes all grease as well) - as well as thins the glue so it 'flows' and forms an even 'skin'. (Glue then dries quickly - and cures in a day - rather than a month.)