Customer insisting on reusing them, anyone have the recommended torque spec by ARP? I cked their slick website to no avail for the 20vt (or 10vt for that matter).
I'll withhold further comments on using them at all, just looking for the published specs. I see into the block 4lb/ft, using the 30w oil method, not the ARP liquid gold.
Anyone?
Thanks
Scott Justusson
Rich L.
10-07-2004, 02:09 PM
I have raceware studs for the head on my hot 3B. The instructions are for three passes at torquing: 25, 40 and finally 55 lbft. They say to use the 30w oil method at room temperature.
Good luck,
Rich
Tony@EPL
10-07-2004, 03:11 PM
Stock audi/vw head studs are quality and cheap.
tpierce
10-07-2004, 04:13 PM
I've never heard of it. Just curious.
repeater
10-07-2004, 04:38 PM
AAN headbolt torque is really only 55lbs? Damn. I never knew. I would have thought it would be up around 120.
AntiSocial
10-07-2004, 05:04 PM
And quit being such a cheap bastard.
AntiSocial
10-07-2004, 05:05 PM
Jimmy Pribble
10-08-2004, 05:32 AM
From my UrQ logbook:
"We installed the new Raceware head stud and then installed the head. When it came time to torque down the head bolts (and the Raceware stud's cool titanium nut), I couldn't bear to even be around for that last 180 degree turn with the breaker bar, so after the three of us prayed over the car (I'm not kidding), I stood outside with my fingers in my ears. But, all went well!"
The reason I was so squirmish is because we had Heli-Coiled the head and my confidence was at a low point. Anyway, I think you might be missing a few steps. From my untrustworthy memory, you torque according to your instructions and then do a 90 deg. turn and then a 180 deg turn. I can't imagine that a WX and a 3B would be that far off. I'm guessing the Raceware part is the same anyway.
No matter what, you're going to need more than 55 lb-ft, IMO. I'm sure I have these instructions at home, but Scott can probably get the answer before then.
Jimmy
shortyq
10-08-2004, 05:36 AM
Hope this finds the search engine.
Rich, I understand the torque spec to be 65lb/ft with ARP's Moly Lube, and 85lb/ft with 30w oil at room temp. This is actually consistent with what some of the vw race guys use on the 16v GTI heads with stock (20vt) head bolts. This would replace the +180 torque spec with 3rd stage just being 85lb/ft.
As to the rest of the posts, I really didn't want to get into the debate on using them. After a bit of investigation, I'm pulling them all together and running new stock head bolts. The thought of trying to pull that head in situ has cured me of any desire to put these back in. Also FYI, in the last day of investigation, I found surprisingly (not to me), a lot of well known audi/vw tuners *don't* use ARP's, that 20vt twisted head bolt is pretty darn sturdy.
Thanks Rich, I can't believe this is such hard information to find on the net. Kinda reinforces my thoughts on the marketing of these things. I have a review on the audifans S car list of my private emails with one of the ARP marketing guys a couple years ago. It would appear not much has changed since then.
Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
Chicago
Rich L.
10-08-2004, 08:55 AM
Rich L.
10-08-2004, 09:07 AM
Jimmy Pribble
10-08-2004, 10:46 AM
Rich L.
10-08-2004, 11:10 AM
Jimmy Pribble
10-08-2004, 02:09 PM
Okay, I'm glad I double-checked and I'm glad none of you take my word for anything. ;-)
The 180 degree turn in my logbook referred to the head bolts. You see, I used factory head bolts, EXCEPT in the one Heli-Coiled thread. We used a Raceware stud, figuring the Heli-Coil would stand a better chance. The machining of the head and Heli-Coil job was not perfect and we didn't really trust it. So, my logbook entry wasn't perfectly clear.
Per Raceware Instructions for RTE-1008 (see p/n below):
Using only regular engine oil to lubricate the stud, nut, and washer, torque the nuts in three increments using the torque pattern in the Audi service manual.