hey all. our '97 A6 ignition is kinda sticky. It won't rebound itself to the "on" position after starting so it'll just keep at the "starting" position. When manually trying to gently move it back over to the "on" position, sometimes it'll just shut off the car cuz I guess too much force.

Would the ignition cylinder have to be changed out or something else? How much would this kinda repair run about?

thanks :)

i got to the point of getting the 2 screws out but the red paint on them made me loose my patience...so i guess i'll try again tomorow

after starting it. If you always make sure to move it back to run, then you'll be fine. It's not nice, by any means, but it is tolerable.

Sometimes if you don't move it back so that it seats in the correct manner, you may not have power to some accessories--like the climate control, for example.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24553/switch.jpg" />

the GF borrowed the car, the car went into the shop or emissions, the car was valet parked, etc.

Just because you got lucky doesn't mean it's a good idea.

the ignition causing it as we'd always shut the car off then restart. Usually it'd come back. But now we just recently figured out it was the ignition.

Did you change it out yourself or did you have a shop do it?

thanks!

I didn't remove the steering wheel like the Bentley says, but it may be easier. To me, it's not worth dealing with the finicky airbag system anyway.

So here's how you do it:

- First disconnect your battery. Get your radio code 'cause it'll go into SAFE mode when you hook up the battery again.

- Lower the steering wheel and pull it as far back as it will go.

- Remove two screws holding the bottom ledge of the dash plastic on. This is just beneath the instrument cluster (IC), one screw on each side of the steering wheel.

- Pull the left side of the trim piece back and then slide the whole piece towards you and to the left.

- Remove three screws holding down the IC.

- Cover your steering column with a clean rag or old t-shirt to prevent scratches or ugly marks.

- Jimmy the instrument cluster back towards you and out of the hole. Probably need to start with the right side.

- Pull IC back and then rotate the right side vertical so that it is standing nearly straight up, wedged between the steering wheel and the dash. This gives you room to work.

- Follow the ignition switch (where you stick the key) back behind the dash and you'll see a pink or purple clip on the portion you have to change out. Look at the new switch you bought to see what it looks like.

- Before removing the switch, there are two screws that hold it in place. However, these screws are covered by some thread locking compound and need to be cleared before you can remove the switch.

- I used a ~4mm wide flathead screwdriver to dig 'em out AND to remove them. I coulda sworn I was just stripping the top of the screw, but it turned out that the screw is really tough and that I was stripping the aluminum threads it sat in--which is no big deal.

- Once you clear the little RED thread locking stuff from the screws, back them out so that a couple threads are sticking out. You don't need to remove them.

- Now the switch should slide backwards. Play with the switch (with wire harness still attached) until you can get the female end looking directly at you. This isn't easy as there's another thick cable that confines it to that small area behind the lock cylinder of the ignition.

- Pull the harness off. It's ok to GENTLY use a screwdriver to help pry the harness off.

- Place the new switch in the harness.

- Place the assemly back in the mounting bracket with the two thread-locked screws. This takes some patience and good aim. I moved the routing of the wires so that WHEN this switch breaks, I can easily switch-out-the-switch.

- Tighten down the two thread-locked flathead screws. I don't think it's important to put any more locking compound here. Your choice, but if you're car all of a sudden doesn't start, you know why...

- You can either check operation of switch (start the car) or go to the next step.

- Put the IC back in; three screws hold it in.

- Put the trim piece back in; two vertical screws hold it in.

- Voila!

Let me know if I missed anything.

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/92966/ignition_switch.jpg"></center><p>i just replaced mine one minute ago (i got the black one who's suppose to be better than the white one)...it's easy BUT,
DON'T FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY(REMEMBER CODE FOR THE RADIO IF YOU HAVE IT )
everything went well until i disconnected the female harness from the male....the switch broke in 2 pieces (with the black piece still connected)and SURPRISE !!!!!!
THE ENGINE TURNED ON !!!!! i went to the battery and disconnect it ....a little to late for that(the car was running on the alternator)...not knowing if the starter is still running or not i start pulling the plug wires out to stop the engine...pull one,another one (meanwhile i get like 5-6 electric shocks from the ignition coil).....i pull 4 of them and the engine is still running with cylinder #3 and #5
finnally it dies and i can replace the switch ..i put everything back on and the car is fine ....
learning my lesson i thought i should share it with you Audifans and remember not to skip any steps in a DIY job not even a simple "insignificant" step like disconnecting the battery.

here's a picture of my ignition switch