Does it makes sence to install K&N hight flow filter? Would it let more polution go to the engine?

Does it fit instead the OEM filter, or I will need to take off intake and filter box?

Thanks for answers.

1st answer,

It might make sense, depending on what you are trying to accomplish. A replacement panel filter is not going to make any real difference that you will notice. But it will save you money in the long run, you don't have to replace your filter with every oil change.
I recomend Amsoil airfilter in this situation, cheaper, filters better.

The panel filter drops right in instead of the OEM paper filter. Easy as pie to install.

The cone filter, which does make a difference, you have to remove the filter box. I finished the whole job in about two hours. Not hard at all.

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/14327/intakew.jpg"></center><p>I think we have the same mods done. I too have the K&N cone filter upgrade. Its a beutiful thing once installed. He tells you no lies.

Lata

I still have problems with installing the cone filter.

1. It supposed to give 5-8 HP (or 5%). On the other hand it will suck the hot air from the engine compartment. While regular filter get it air from outside. Let say outside is 25C and inside is 45C. This mean, that inside air is thiner by 9%. Of cause I need to get real temperatures. So Tommorow I will drive my car with RadioShak thermometer in it. From other side after the air filter air is traveling inside of the pipe. I have no idea, how hoter it gets in there. May I ask you. Does your car have more power, when it just started, or all the time? Anyway it gives me a stupid ideas, like why we do not insulate the air intake from the heat of the engine. Or even better, why we do not wrap cold AC line around the air intake pipe. If we will cool intake from 30C to 10C, it should give us 9% burst.

2. I had noticed, that air intake has quite a wired form. I belive, that German dudes did it, so it will suck cold air from outside. Another point, if my car will drive in deep water cooling fans will spray this water all around the cone filter and it may shutdown the engine. I live in Bensonherst, so I see deep pudles evry three month or so.

Installing was alittle tricky for me, but mainly because tap1 sent me terrible directions. But I figured it out and it went smooth from there.

5-8hp sounds right, the car in general feels alot more responsive period.
Hot air induction is always a worry, but remember when you are driving cool air from outside is rushing into the engine bay at all times, its not idle air sitting around except when at a red light. There really has been no point were my car has felt as slow as it did before.

I have insulated my MAF sensor, which also makes a difference. Used some foam insulation I got at Ace Hardware. Some people do the whole pipe, but from what i have read its not as much a difference as insulting the MAF itself (which measures the temp of the air, and modifieds the air/fuel mixture accordingly).

Engine flooding is a worry even with the stock design. If you look at the intake pipe (I modified so it would direct air to the cone) water could easily get into it and the airbox in the same situation. You could be safe and keep the compressor off durring rainy periods.

And I will post temperature data. But it sounds correct, that air will warm up anyway because the pipe and cilinders.