Dealership wanted $600.00 to fix. I'll try to repair(mucho PB Blaster or new tie rods)myself first.

You can get the tie rod with the stuck end totally off in 5 minutes and just get a new one for about $75 (tie rod) and $105 for a pair of heavy duty ends.

I don't know where those crack smokers are coming up with $600.

But lets face it..most dealer5s are good for ..convincing us to DIY.

Ended up buying the tie rod itself from a local $tealer$hip as I needed it right away.

If you are going to try to unstuck the stuck end I would do this: Leave everything in place and just back off the locking nut and work on turning the 18mm tie rod adjustment hex clockwise. Basically the tie rod end will be held in place by the bearing carrier and you will work on breaking it loose by turning the tie rod rather than the end. Don't be concerned that you shouldn't turn it. It is a just a ball joint under the boot.

If you are like me, the rubber adhesive inside the end will fail and the body of the end will stay put, but the threaded bolt will turn inside it. Once you get to this point there is little hope of putting significant torque on it unless you can use an idea given to me: weld the locking nut to the shaft. I don't have the ability to weld in my humble garage.

Like I said - if it won't come off don't spend all day with it. Just buy a whole tie rod and a new set of heavy duty ends. Remove the boot and easily unthread the tie rod from the steering rack. Replace in a few minutes and be on your way. I waged a holy war with my tie rod end and lost. I should have just gotten a new tie rod 6 man hours earlier in the process.<ul><li><a href="http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_v2.cgi?make=Audi&amp;engine=2.7T&amp;model=All%2 0Road&amp;submodel=&amp;category=Suspension">http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_v2.cgi?make=Audi&amp;engine=2.7T&amp;model=All%2