The price of the APR chip is certainly attractive, but I'm no mechanic and I'm concerned about ease of installation as well as going back to stock when it's time for dealer service. What exactly is involved in (1) installing the new chip and (2) reinstalling the old chip at service time? Special know-how? Tools? Time involved? Debugging required? Is it better to get the spare ECU for swapping in and out, rather than messing around with the chip itself? I've seen many opinions posted about to-chip-or-not-to-chip, but am very interesed to know the (excuse the pun) nuts and bolts of installation and swapping. Thanks,

Rick
99.5 A41.8TQM

Go to Apr's website @ goapr.com and look in their fax for a detailed illustration on how to install/remove the ECU.




Good luck,


Peter

A4 Avant 1.8t QMS

Very easy install, covered in depth in the FAQ, but here it is anyways:)

The only tool you need is an 8mm socket, perhaps a phillips screwdriver if you cant get at the 5th bolt, and need to take off the trim inder the windshield. Just strip off the rubber grommet thing from the engine compartment, pop off the pastic cover, unhook the battery, unscrew the ecu box, and pop the sucker out. reverse for re-installation!

I was rather wary after performing this myself at first also, and the first time I did it took maybe 40 minutes. Now, knowing how it works, it takes me about 10:) I think someone else said something to the same effect a while ago also.

The apr chip/ecu combo is a great deal. I haven't had any problems with it. YMMV.

Good luck!

Sean
99.5 1.8TQMS, goAPR!

1 8mm socket to remove 5 screws on the weatherproof box.
1 flathead screw driver to remove the metal clip tie down.
2 hands to remove the ECU harnesses, one at a time.
If you have a socketed chip:
1 T15 Torx driver to remove the screws to open up to the PCB/ECU.

Total time: 10 minutes.

As for dealer service... If you dealer don't care, you really don't need to swap back.

Cris

One additional thing I can recommend... The most difficult thing about the whole installation is the last screw in the back of the ECU box.. It's a pain to get to, and took us quite a while to get it out.. My recommendation is simple (if you want to be able to easily switch back to stock).. Don't put that screw back in!! I'd imagine it's as hard to put back as it is to get it out. I didn't put mine back in, and switching back to stock took me no more than 10 minutes, and I'm not mechanical at all.

There are two wire harnesses that plug into the ecu, they're very easy to remove. You simply pull the plastic "release" on the sides outward, and the harness comes right off.

One additional note.. In addition to the 8mm socket for the ECU screws, a 10mm socket will work for disconnecting the battery.

The air filter was a major pain in the neck..If you want to attempt this yourself, let the car cool for at least an hour. When performing this procedure, I was burned.. not pleasant.

If I had to do it over again, I would bring it to a shop and pay them $20 to do it... They may even do it for less.

nt

I found this out when I was putting in the K04.... you can easily move the airbox out of the tight engine compartment by unbolting it from the fender. Remove that nut, remove the snorkel (sp?)... and the airbox should come up and out just enough to make life ALOT easier.
BTW, don't need to disconnect battery to remove ECU.

Cris

ESD (electrostatic discharge) protection should always be used when handling any component with integrated circuits on it. This involves using a device(available at any electronics store) such as a wrist strap that has a wire connected to it with an alligator clip at the end. This alligator clip is connected to a good ground and thus will ground the wearer. A static hcarge (even one that is imperceptible) can totally blow out microscopic circuits in an integrated circuit (aka chip). Even if catastrophic damage is not done at the time a circuit can be partially damaged, which can lead to a failure at a later time.

although I would make the point that the good ground in question has to be on the car. It's not good enough that you are at ground if the car is not. If your just swapping the ECU there are fewer problems as the pins are recessed in the connector (unlikely to be touched), but again I would ground the case of the ECU to the car body to discharge any difference between them before pluging the connectors in. Your body is good for this, if your holding the ECU touch some bare metal with your other hand (the engine comes to mind), then connect the plugs.