What rotors, pads and fluid would you recommend for a 3-5 event per year S4 that sees daily driving duties 9 months of the year? I know all of the benefits of the BBK on the track, I just do not want to invest that much into the S4 right now. I want to have fun at the track a couple of times a year(like the April Autobahn event), but keep the S4 mod bug under control. I would really like to hear from some that are doing DE events and have kept the stock brakes.

Thanks!
Pat

2001.5 Audi S4 APR Stage 2 (Mine)

My first 60 track days were on stock brakes.

You need a bbk :)

If you wanted to keep your stock brakes you need to put in some Motul 600 or 660 brake fluid, get a decent set of track pads (NOT hp+'s) probably Hawk HT10 or better and some spare rotors.

You'll cook the hell out of those brakes and probably have a couple of scares if you start getting really fast.

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/SpartanS4/IMG_1264.jpg">

If I went the stock set-up with the Motul fluid and hawk pads that you suggest, do you have any recommendation on a rotor? I am just trying to avoid spending on the BBK for 3-5 events per year.

the S4 is too much of a pig to track with anything less than track pads IMO.

You can't use full track pads on the street (well, you can, but the noise will drive you crazy and they don't so well when they are cold).

Flush your stock brake fluid and refill with something good like SpartanS4 says.

Real track pads are a must.

You will destroy your brakes and spend $$ on rotors. Why not check out the classifieds? There are always brakes for sale and you can get a good price.

Hell even pooptech 332's are better than stock (somewhat) and those are like $1k used.

Your getting into an expensive hobby here. My honest advice since you won't get a bbk out of the box is to put in motul fluid with some HT-10 pads and go to an event. It will ge a good learning experince for you

Stoptech's are way better than stock rotors!

Are you going to be out at an event this year Dan?

PS I love your sig, until she flips me off :(

they are the following....

loud
dirty
hard on rotors

they will hold up pretty well on the track but you'll fade them if you drive hard enough especially if you run track tires. on street tires you'll probably be ok

in my experience this is good duel use pad if there is such a thing. I tracked with them many many times and it usually worked out pretty well

on the other hand, why not just buy race pads and install them at the track? lots of people do this. you may want to bring an extra set of rotors jut in case

fyi the s4 is not a cheap car to track so be aware you'll be spending lots of money regardless

I did track events for several years on stock brakes w/ track pads and I eventually burned the caliper seals and could not get a firm pedal.

It also depends on your driving style. if you are smooth and easy on the brakes they should be ok with a decent pad. if they start to fade just don't slow down so much!

The thought is to attend atleast one. I am researching upgrades for the car right now.

Indeed, until most people get really deep into DE and track events they will dabble in several set ups, initially prolonging their OEM or nearly stock set up until their lap speeds and pads use increase.

Since brakes turn speed into heat (simplistically)
make sure you:

Find a way to get heat out of the rotors.

One of the cheapest ways to prolong braking life is to duct air to the rotor.

Pad compounds vary to use and degree of abuse.

Rotors are the heat sink where the heat goes.

Cool these guys down and you'll be able go deeper and reduce brake fade &amp; boiling fluid.

Factor in these basics when you look for your braking solution.

-Scott by BOSTON

Slow down to 7/10ths.... I've tracked the Passat several times last year and if you have the mentality that you are going to work on the line and avoid bombing it to the last brake marker, your brakes will be just fine.

Last year (after Daveykid left me alone at the track), I ran almost 1hr 25mins with the Passat. Lap after lap I worked the car to the limits except for brake zones, where I backed off a bunch. Instead of braking at the 2 marker on ABCC N1, I started to brake at the 4 marker. Yes, after my session, the rotors were at 970degrees, but I still had brakes.

Both driving styles are a ton of fun, one is just a tad harder on the braking system than the other.

BBK isn't needed.

YMMV.

I totally know what you're saying, the thing is, it's damn hard to do when you first get out there.

It's fun going fast and braking late and some people have a harder time controlling themselves than others:)

The single thing that can screw up a track day is fading brakes.

The Festiva on the other hand has no brakes, just holes in the floor (like Fred Flinstone).

When it comes to the second most important safety system in your car there are some inexpensive things you can do to prolong component life.

First, go with Motul 600 for fluid. It's a little more costly, but worth every penny - it doesn't boil under normal - harsh - driving conditions.

Second - get some air in there to cool things off. Remove the splash guard (sometimes referred to as the backing plate) and fashion air ducts out of shop vac hose and zip ties if you must.

Third, use a good pad. I wouldn't go with anything less than HT-10's for such a heavy car.

Fourth, those pads are agressive - you WILL get rotor wear. Hunt around and get cyrogenicially treated rotors. A few more bucks, but they will last twice as long - or more.

But really, you don't NEED any of the above if you don't over-drive your car. Turn off your chip for the first day and get to know the rhythm of the track. Higher speeds in the straights mean you have to convert that speed into heat to slow for the corners. There are no prizes at our events for fastest times. It's really more about finding your limits (and the limits of whatever equipment you happen to have), learning proper technique and having a great time.

A pretty good driver by the name of Jackie Stewart once said the the driver who wins the race is the one that uses his brakes the least.

We're looking forward to seeing you at the track!

that vibration from pad deposits can ruin a track day just as easy as brake fade. With brake fad you can just dial it down a bit but those deposits can take some work to get off.

either way his best bet is to use the better fluid/track pad and not run under stg2 power. But then what fun would that be!

If you have never done an event, just run the stock pad with Motul, cryo rotors and ducting. You'll be learning so many other things, you won't be able to achieve the type of repeated deep braking that comes with confidence and familiarity with the venue. At least not until the second half of the second day.

If you've done a few, then step up to a better pad - depending on your driving style, Some folks love the Blues, some the HT-10's. I prefer the DTC-70's, but Don't use me as an example - or at least not as a good example...

Your instructor should be able to guide you in pad selection.