So i got this system for my car and feel that the box with 2 10's is a bit much for me and want to trade it along with its amp for goodies. Now i'd preffer decent rim/tires, but other audi stuff is also welcome.

The 2-10s are made by Memphis Audio and the Amp is made by Performance Teknique. Out put is 1200W

If local CA even better!

http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/<ul><li><a href="http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&amp;Product_ID=43 8">http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&amp;Product_ID=43 8</a</li></ul>

super sweet.

With the release of amps like the Alpine PDX, its now harder to say "there's no way you can get 1000W from an amp only 15" long". But an amp with only 50A worth of fuses putting out 1000W, no way!

Unfortunately a lot of amp brands have gone that way, even some of the good ones. I remember the days when "max power" wasn't even in the vocabulary of Orion, now it's emblazoned on all their amps. Yes I know it's DEI now but even for a few years after DEI took over they still never printed max power anywhere let alone on the amp.

I guess with tons of no-name amps out there now with stupid power numbers all over the place, it turns into a "if you can't beat 'em, join 'em" situation.

But I'm not paying shipping!

The way to see what an amp is really doing is read the birth certificate. Amps like Rockford and Alpine will include this information telling you what the amp did and at what kind of voltage they had going into it. I know on Rockford amps if they say it's a 1000w amp it is really closer to 1450w amp.

Many amp companies out there will print a sticker and put it on the amp that says what ever amount of power that they can get out of that amp. How they got that amount of power is what you need to see. I have seen amps that were 2000w of power for $199.99, and then look at the Rockford or JL Audio 1000w amps that are $900-$1200 bucks why the huge difference.

When reading the paperwork on the cheaper amps they had 16v of power going into it, well cars with a good alternator will run about 12.5V to 13.5V depending how long of a power wire from the battery to the amp. When looking at that kind of info it does show you that the info is not as accurate as it should be. Also looking at the distortion rate, the less quality of products will have a higher distortion rate. This lets the amp do more power but not as clean of sound.

For an amp to run subs I would say a good rule of thumb for a good amp you would pay $0.75 to $1.25 per watt. There are higher end amps that you will pay more for.

..it defitely delivers for such a small package.

Probably not the 1000W one though as it would be too much for just a pair of 8s. If anything I'd probably go with a 4.100 and a 1.600.

I found some new TRU amps that I really like but space might be an issue. I wish they would fit though because I loved my old TRU amps.

and about the same size. Can't confirm that as I've never heard them, but my industry buddies say it's a better route.

I was never a big fan of the older JL line of amps so I'm hesitant about any of their new offerings. I haven't heard of too many people running this stuff yet so I'll just have to wait and see. For JL money, I could run the TRU amps which would absolutely blow the JLs away. That makes it even harder to consider the JL amps.

the older JL amps were crap. The HD amps are supposed to be a better offering than the PDX equivelant. If you're concerned about SQ, you probably won't find much in a very small chasis.

What kind of power are you looking for?

Power wise I'm looking for 75-100W/ch in a 4 ch and 500-600W @ 2 ohms for a mono sub amp. Actually the mono can be 4 ohm or 2 ohm rated because the subs are available in 4 or 2 ohms. The footprint of the amp is very important. Something near PDX or JL HD like dimensions. The TRU amps I looked at are 13 x 9 which is about 3" larger than the PDX and might not fit. Stacking ability would also be helpful but not absolutely necessary as there are other mounting options.

I wish I had room for an LRx 5.1x but that's way to long. Memphis S class is another Class D stackable design but I'm not sure how good those are in terms of SQ.

I love that amp

I even checked out the 6 ch VRx but that's even bigger.

so far i have to choose from a used oil filter to a new one to trade with. Mhmm.. im kinda wanting the used one for its experience

...and are SQ savvy.

Yes there IS better, but price/value $$, you can't beat them.

anybody who really knows audio would never claim the PDX to be an SQ amp.

Hop over to an industry forum like 12vinsider.com and make a claim like that. Those guys are fanatics.

The best SQ amp for the dollar is a difficult category. I've been very impressed with the new Clarion amps as their designed by Robert Zeff. They maintain very aggressive price points while still delivering great quality.

The PDX was never meant to be an SQ amp, more a form function amp.

But some feel that it is good enough to pass for a very good class A/B instead of a class D. This time aroudn I'm not really looking for the ultimate SQ amps. BTDT already. What I want is something small that sounds pretty good. It seems like the PDX and JL HD series fit that bill. The JL HD series is a bit smaller so that's a plus. The only thing that worries me about the JL is the price and the mono amp is a bit too much power for what I'll be running. A single PDX 5 setup or a PDX 4.100 and 1.600 is starting to look much more inviting.

get at that price is hard to beat, and it does sound very good.