Looking for some insider information since there doesn't seem to be much out there yet. Is there any official documentation regarding features/capabilities?
I really need to find a good DSP unit that will accept a 4 ch line level input and output 8 channels. The Audiocontrol DQXS looks good but has some limitations that I'm not thrilled about like fixed 24dB/oct x-over slopes and no under/overlapping crossover frequencies for the midrange output.
stadtjunge
11-04-2008, 12:31 AM
I'm stealing this info from a confidential insider forum. Sorry if it's fragmented.
<img src="http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff54/lafrederick49/BitOne-REAL.jpg">
There are ONLY 2 in the USA right now. Larry Fredericks has one for testing, and Gary Springgay gets the other for a
review (with the TH Quarttro amplifier - as the TH and the BitOne are kind of a combo deal
BitOne has 8 high level in (speaker) and 8 low level out (RCA)
So .,yeah you can do 3 way front with sub no problem
And ANY integration piece (AC, RF, JL, etc) you HAVE to have an RTA to PROPERLY set it up.
PERIOD!!!!
You have to FIRST know what all the speaker outputs on the stock system are doing? Hi-Pass, Low-Pass, Band-pass, etc. At what frequencies? which are you going to "mix" together to get full range, etc. Without an RTA it is a "Crap Shoot".
Not counting after getting the system "flat" and then going in and EQing it for the car/customer.
I have REALLY good ears and can dial a car up without an RTA, BUT...an RTA tells (shows??) me what I am hearing. And makes it much quicker, easier.
A quick screenshot of the software:
<img src="http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff54/lafrederick49/linked_right.png">
What you don't see is under "config" there is a setting called "Dynamic Equalization Wizard".
Retail is $799.99
<i>Been playin' with the software. I like how it "highlights" EQ sliders within the passband for the selected channel. I know we knew this, but can you say 48dB/oct slopes?!?!
The Dynamic EQ (programmable loudness curve) is sick- Advanced mode lets you tailor the lows AND the highs. Have to do a live-fire exercise with it, but I suspect it will be a nice feature.
Input and output mapping are both very cool.
Time correction looks to be a little unusual in how you set it, but after a few uses, probably not so much.
Looks to be that EQ'ing can't done to both sides w/o losing any work done to the channels independently; although you CAN do both first, THEN go and do either side.
And all for $800!
Wow.
__________________
Zach Abass 12v sales
Blvd. Customs St. Petersburg, FL
</i>
<img src="http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff54/lafrederick49/DRC-inHand.jpg">
The above picture is the DRC unit (dash mounted controller)
1/10th db per octave adjustments
Since it has multiple inputs ( both high level and RCA), it DOES have the ability to PRESERVE a multi-channel signal sent into it from upstream. So you can use a Logic7 car, or an Escalade with Dolby, and keep it.
I have the manual and software I can email you....
HIS4
11-04-2008, 12:56 AM
Great info. Looks like an interesting piece. Is the DRC included or is it an optional piece? I really don't need the speaker level inputs or the summing capabilities since the HU in my car outputs full range line level outputs. If you could email me the manual that would be great since that would answer a lot of my functionality questions.
Thanks
TwoSnails
11-04-2008, 09:18 AM
is this the same thing as running active? Or am i not even at newbie status.
HIS4
11-04-2008, 10:18 AM
Running active is a term used to describe how each of the individual drivers (speakers) in the system are processed (crossed over). In your typical off the shelf component set, the crossover between the midrange and tweeter is part of the passive crossover provided with the component set. This gives you a fixed crossover frequency for the set. Some higher end sets will allow you to amplify the speakers individually but the crossover frequency is still fixed.
In an active system, the passive crossovers supplied with the component set are not used. Instead, electronic crossovers are used to process the signal before it gets amplified. Now because the signal is processed before it's amplified, that means you need 1 channel of amplification for each speaker. So if you have a set of 6.5" mids and tweeters, that's 4 speakers total. You need 4 individual channels of amplification so that each channel can be processed independently. In the simplest of active systems, you would need 5 channels of amplification. 2 for the high range (tweeters), 2 for the midrange, and at least 1 for the low range (subwoofer). This will allow you to not only adjust the crossover frequency of each speaker individually, it will also allow you to adjust the output level of each signal range separately.
So running active gives you the ultimate control over almost every aspect of the system. The problem with active systems is that they are not easy to setup. It takes an experienced installer/tuner to be able to setup an active system. It doesn't make sense to just set the crossover frequencies to what the manufacturer suggests. There are so many things that affect how a speaker sounds in a car that every car will be different. The goal is to have each signal range blend into the next so that you hear the system as a whole and not as individual speakers. You can't just do it with an RTA either because an RTA will only give you the frequency response of a system. It won't show you things like image placement, tonal balance, or spaciousness.
stadtjunge
11-04-2008, 10:21 AM
creating a soundstage and imaging. there are groups that really like running active as it gives more of an opportunity to get your hands on.
stadtjunge
11-04-2008, 10:24 AM
The inputs can be speaker level, line level, or optical (2).
I'll try to send over the manual now, Its a fairly large file, and gets temperamental on some servers.
HIS4
11-04-2008, 10:25 AM
The design of the crossover cannot take into account speaker placement and in car acoustics because they would have to design a different one for every car. So they design it with general parameters which are pretty good for most cars. For most people it works but for the ones who are looking for something that isn't just good enough, you need to either make custom passive crossovers or go active.
stadtjunge
11-04-2008, 12:00 PM
HIS4
11-04-2008, 12:11 PM
Q
03-27-2010, 10:37 PM
any updates to this?
VP Electricity
04-10-2010, 04:04 PM
Mmmm... well, the bitOne version 1.0 was not so hot - don't buy any used.
V1.1 - the BitOne.1 as it says on the box - works much better.
I've benched one and it definitely has more features than any other OEM interface device out there today. However, it's the opposite of cheap, and if you aren't going to use that many of the features, you should really make certain it's what you need - ESPECIALLY those of you with B5/B6/B7 A4/S4, C5 A6/S6/ar, A5 A3, or the last non-MOST A8/S8 (D3? I forget).
The biggest feature for newer Audi owners - and I haven't tested this yet, BUT I WOULD LOVE TO if any Pacific NW Audi owners would like to do so as well - is evaluate the Mobrdige optical gateway Toslink output and the Audison Toslink input.
Those are supposed to work together and give you OEM volume control. This would obviate all the analog attenuation and summing and re-de-eq-ing, and give you a digital signal, which is then equalized, time-corrected, and crossover filtered in the DIGITAL domain before any D/A conversion takes place - and then is output analog to your amplifiers.
The DRC is not required, although having presets is nice, especially if you want to have driver-optimized and front-two-seat-optimized settings. It has a nice feel to it and it pretty flexible to mount.
If you're not doing the MOST-Toslink digital trick, you can use it to sum the channels of the MOST amp's outputs... but I'd prefer to find another way.
I'm not a huge fan of 30-band graphic EQs... I prefer the 10-band parametric in the Zapco DSP stuff. But they work.
It has a dedicated phone speaker input for adding Bluetooth devices, which is cool if you don't have one from the factory - but again, if you have one of the cars listed above, I know you have those pins on your HU too...
If you have a netbook, you should either use an external monitor for the SW, or change your resolution, since it wont' work on my ASUS Eee's 1024x600 without cropping off part of the pane, and it doesn't support a scroll bar either.
So, good gear, sometimes can be used to great advantage, not cheap, best implementation includes Mobridge DA1000 (also not cheap).