my plans are almost done and i am starting to purchase components of the system

2 hertz mille 12s
sealed fiberglass box and amp rack
2 audison lrx 2.9 1x900watts to power the subs
hertz mille mlk 2 comps
audison amp for the comps(not sure which one yet)
kinetik khc2400 power cell

on the line about the pioneer avic z3, kenwood dnx8120, or azentek atlas cpc 1000

and all the supporting wiring, cables, dynamat,etc.

what do you think?

The 1.2 will give slightly more power in less space than 2 LRx 2.9s. The LRx 1.2 is Class D compared to Class AB like the LRx 2.9 but that's not really that important on a sub amp.

I looked into using a Kinetik battery for my car when I had my system in but I couldn't do it because the battery is too tall. It would have hit the underside of the hood if installed in the factory battery tray. You'll have to address that issue if you plan to use that battery. I eneded up with a Scosche ED1500 which is a rebadged Odyssey PC1500.

that's the one I've got. It'll give you 150rms for the mid bass drivers, 50rms (class A) to the tweeters, and 1200rms to the woofers. All in one beautiful modestly sized chassis. I think the amp retails for $1500. Make sure you get the Audison VCRA remote bass controller.

Where are you located? and where are you having the work done?

750rms for each sub. Being in a sealed enclosure i want close to 1000 for each sub.

i am located in northern nj and detailed sounds in caldwell, nj is doing the work. this will be a winter project being it will problary end up costing upwards of 8k when said and done. Problary more.

It looks like the amp puts out over 2000W at 2 ohms. It even says its stable down to 1 ohm but I think you need to address heat at that point since Audison amps have been known to have problems at 1 ohm without proper cooling.

It might be a class A biased preamp or something of that sort but it is definitely not a class A amplifier section. A 50W pure class A amp would be about half the size of the car. The produce tons of heat and need enormous heatsinks to dissipate it.

2-12s in a car is already overkill. 2-12s with 600W will probably be running at minimum gain to get it to sound good unless you plan on just thumping around the block all day long.

$8k is a lot of dough to be spending. I would think for that kind of money the shop would be helping you with some of these decisions. Is there a lot of custom work involved? I'm not bashing because you're spending $8k because my system costs me over $9k but it included a lot of custom work and there was constant dialogue between me and the installer about what my goals were and I was constantly giving feedback during the whole installation process. When your spending that kind of money, it's important that you and the installer have good communication because I'm sure you have high expectations of what you are getting. The last thing you want (and the installer if he's a good one) is too spend all that money and be disappointed.

view from somebody that is not giving money nor recieving it. It takes something out of the equation and leaves more of a technical view on things. You know, i am not looking to spend as much money as a shop would want you to spend.

the two 12s are going into a truck at this point. Maybe that will change in a week or two as i decide what car i am switching to. I am laying down money to the shop now so that upon arrival of the new car
i will be ready to rock what ever the sub size will be. Obviously less if a car but i have my eyes set pretty hard on a trailblazer ss.

He has a camaro with 3 10 hertz milles. Mlk 2's all powered by audison. He is putting 2000 plus watts to the 10s in a sealed fiberglass enclosure. When he turned the remote bass knob up the thing hit insanely hard and was some of the tightest cleanest bass i have ever heard.

This is why i like your view. Now when he installs the system i can tell him to throw a audison with 1200 watts in to see if it sounds good. Hey maybe you just saved me 1k for another amp.. THANKS!!

And yes there is alot of custom work. Fiberglass box/amp rack. I am also getting him to do the center of the seats in dark red suede along with part of the door panels, headliner in black, and sub box in black and red suede.

he quoted me 1000 for the seats. Is this alot not having anything done before i dont know. All i know is the suede work in his car is perfect. It couldnt look closer to oem.

I am also blown away with the azentek cpc1000 head unit. It is amazing. check it out if you get the chance.

Still 600W to each of 2-12" is a lot for a set of 6-1/2" comps to keep up with. Tuning will be important. What are you using for sound processing?

I had 1-10" Digital Designs 9510 in my S4 with about 1500W powering it. At full tilt, it was hard to even sit in the car. I basically had all my amp gains set to minimum and had a DSP to get everything to sound good. For awhile, I had only a 13-band EQ that was built into my HU and we got it to sound pretty good. Then I upgraded to a full 31-band EQ/DSP and then it sounded amazing.

the more current draw the more it blends into an AB. It is a Class A under average load. If you'd like to argue further on the matter, feel free to test the expert minds on 12vinsider.com.

Also, Audison are some of the best amps available. If they make claim to class A, pretty sure it is a class a.

I questioned the factory before deciding on the LRx5.1k to power (2) Mille 12s, and they said that it would work flawlessly.

2 years ago, Elettromedia used the LRx5.1k in their demo car at sema to power (2) ML2500 and a set of MLK2 in the front of a Nissan 350z. It was hands down the best sounding car I heard at the show.

Pick up the October issue of Car Audio and Electronics magazine where Jeremy Katz used all Audison LRx amps to power MLK2 mids and ML2500 woofers. I haven't gotten the pleasure of hearing it, but everybody that I talk to says it's nothing short of perfect.

Larry Fredericks who is a god in this industry claims it's the best sounding car he's EVER heard.

I think you're choice of product is superb. I hope you're happy!

hows your charging system?

12s( he has three 10s) in a camaro and the fronts had NO problem keeping up. And when i say no problem, the bass hit so hard i couldnt breathe(he was just showing me what it could do), and the highs were LouD and crystal clear. I didnt hear any distortion even at really high volumes. they were amazingly bright but not harsh. I hate harsh tweeters.

i really havent got to processing yet. What would you recommend? I havent even asked the shot about it yet.

At low current its biased more towards class A. The Audison spec says AB+D since the sub channel is D.

The full tilt rating for the 1.2 probably assumes a 1 ohm load which he wouldn't reach if he's running 2-4 ohm subs.

a varient of class D which allows for better SQ.

The A channel of the LRx5.1 is biased towards the class A technology as they saw the 50X2 being used for tweeters.

I was at a shop in Boise when a kid with a new Scion TC picked up an LRx1.2k. I had to ask "what are you doing to address the power supply issues". He said that he was going to get a capacitor! ahahahahaha.

It sounds like your goals might be a little different from what mine were. I was going for strictly SQ. I didn't really care how loud it was. I just wanted accurate sound reproduction. It was just a bonus that the system happened to be able to get really loud. I was using an Alpine PXA-H701 for processing but you need an Alpine HU to control it unless you buy the add on controller. But it doesn't perform quite the same if you're not using an Alpine HU. I'm looking into an Audiocontrol DQXS for another car. The Rockford 3sixty.2 is good but only limited to 6 channels so that might cause some problems depending on how you plan to setup your system.

The charging system still has to be up to snuff if he's going to run an amp for the comps plus a 1.2 or 2-2.9s. Might be less of an issue just running the 5.1 for the whole system.

1.3 farad cap (more for sound quality reasons than power supply) then 2awg to the amp. At normal driving conditions under full load the factory battery's voltage never drops under 13v. The only problem I have is overheating due to lack of fresh air in the false floor.

If this is going in a little Audi, ask your installer if he feels you have addressed the power consumption issue adequately.

all the other systems on the market, but as far as acoustics it falls way short of every other available option...

Audison will be releasing their BitOne system in the next month. i'm REALLY excited to get my hands on one. I'll be writing a full review. There is a lot of excitement about this piece on the 12vInsider forums.<ul><li><a href="http://blog.sounddomain.com/gadget/2008/04/update-audison.html#more">sound domain pre-release review of the BitOne</a></li></ul>

i still want it to knock hard if i am in the mood. I will daily drive it on the sq side though. Bass knob problary 30 percent.

how would it sound if i went two 10s and the 5 channel amp. Would it still be loud?

I haven't given it the DB test.

The difficulty is when one person says something is really loud there is no fact behind it. Getting real life dB numbers that you can compare is the only way to describe the systems capabilities.

I am a bass head, and I'm more than satisfied with the output off the LRx5.1k

I've got my A channels to the rear fill, and I'm soon going to be loading down the B channels to 2ohms and adding ANOTHER set of the MLK165 in the front doors.

So, if you do the math.... (1) $1500 amp powering 3 sets of high performance 6.5" seperates, and two monsterous 12" SQ woofers..... I'd say it's a badass amp.

It's too small to really useful off a palm device and the GUI in Windows doesn't fill a screen either. That unit is good for smaller systems that need limited processing but not for larger or more complex system that require more control.

The BitOne looks interesting but what is the MSRP going to be if they had to offer the Auto-EQ spearately for $300 extra. Is this a $1000 processor we're talking about here. Also, how do you control it? Is there a front mounted control unit? The reason I ask is because it says it has digital inputs. If you use the digital output from a HU, the signal is not affected by the HU volume control. There needs to be a way to control the volume of the system if the digital input is used.