I'm looking for a good 10" DVC sub. Nothing too crazy, just enough to get that nice, loud, low end sound and not lose my trunk or totally empty my wallet.

Been eyeing the JL 10W3v2-D4. They're on eBay for ~$100.

Thoughts?

Thanks everyone.<ul><li><a href="http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=11">JL 10W3v2 Driver Specs</a></li></ul>

..most of the stuff on Ebay (except for a private seller) is trans-shipped product.

The trans-shippers and Ebay sellers strip off the serial numbers to avoid getting caught for selling the JL line on Ebay.

They and JL Audio won't stand behind the product if you do have a problem.

...less air pushers. Something like, diamond audios...or...infinity...even a few models of rockford.

Im sure you'll happy with the JL though...it'll give you exactly what you asked for in the right enclosure...of which i recommend sealed.

JL makes good product. It's just a little on the expensive side compared to other available products. Maybe an Image Dynamics ID would be a good fit and a little cheaper than the JL. The only thing about ID is that their customer support sucks. But you wounld't get support buying JL on ebay anyway so maybe that's not an issue.

I used to really dig the LOW deep stuff and used to run a 12" DVC Hifonics [before they were bought and went down hill] but I listen to a lot more Drum and Bass now [than rap] so I think a DVC 10" will be more appropriate.

However, I was thinking ported... and your reco is sealed. Hmmm, care to elaborate on sealed vs. ported? Come to think of it, I've always had ported boxes in some form or another.

on the list.

As much as I hate to ask... cause normally I'd research it myself, by the numbers, which sub is "better"?<ul><li><a href="http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/products_page.php?id=id&amp;type=sub">ID10D4 V.3</a></li></ul>

..you're going to have to pay over half of MSRP for them to "re-serial #" the unit.

I've heard of them doing this on the W7 line for something like $500 (those are $800-$1,000 woofers).

If you're hearing midbass from your subs, your crossover is set too high and your stage is coming from behind you.

Uses a nice small sealed box. You can go ported if you want but the sealed box sounded great. I did notice that when I was running it with 300W it sounded good but when I bumped it up to 600W OMG!! it was like a totally different sub.

...yes, that IS what a speaker must do to make sound, obviously, but especially in the hatchbacks ive dealt with (im aware its different for a sedan) ive noticed i can almost "hear" how far the speaker travels based on how much air pressure changes. The fact is, the farther the speaker is traveling, the slower it will respond (typically).

Now, I'm sure a JL audio DVC 15" would make <i>more</i> sound than my old DVC Visonik...but i preferred the tighter response of the Visonik. I got what i considered a better tibre out of it...

This is of course...all preference.

...crisp and tight low end. I play a 5-string, and that low B must be supported or the amp just doesnt cut it. More often than not, i find a 10" just cant cut it there....but of course, that is an entirely different application and speaker design.

Now...that being said, i still sought after responsive bass. Even at the sub levels, i should hear where the sound is coming from, but i dont want the speaker dragging behind on my rapid staccato bass hits in the Drum n Bass i love too.

The tones and pitch are low...as its delivering low frequencies...but the JLs IVE heard arent as responsive as some others to my taste. Although, i cant say this couldnt be blamed on the owners poor setup...

I'm not sure why that is but you're not the first to react that way to that statement. I tried to explain it to my borther and he said there was no way a 5" or 6" mid could recreate the kick of a kick drum or the pluck of a bass. Then I told him to listen to my system with the sub off and then with the sub on. Now he's convinced.

The low end does get reinforced by the sub but the initial attack comes from the midbass drivers. The attack is what people usually perceive as the tightness of the bass. The trick is to setup all the drivers so that they appear to blend into one seamless source of sound. There will be a left and a right but you shouldn't have travel from front to back.

In either case, that is one of the drawbacks of having subs in the cabin like you would in a hatchback or truck.

...high enough quality mid drivers. Most stage cabinets are 8ohm as well...so this changes things.

I mean, i DO know that smaller speaker diameters CAN produce the punch part (listen to some good studio monitors for examples, people), but its the low freq (18-50Hz) rumble that i feel suffers the most. Hence, why i used to run a dual sub setup....one 10" and one 15." That 10 handled from 80-50Hz (switchable to 120 if i wanted, but rarely) and the 15" from 50Hz and below.

Sounds staging is very important, and maybe my ears will be convinced when i finally get around to doing this cars sound correctly. I plan on (for the first time) sparing no expense in components for the install.

I'll post when its time, but im sure i'll be asking for some good mid bass recommendations. =]

...that I am finishing up.

The subwoofer will only be to reinforce the lowest of the frequencies, from 20hz to 90hz.

Click on the link in my sig (Part VI) to see the dual 6 1/2" mid-bass set up.

I'm very interested in getting CORRECT mid bass too...and overall quality of sound is FAR more important than volume IMO.

Imma do some reading and poking around...and maybe i'll start another thread soon where you guys can school me on the brands of 6.5s than can do the job right. In the past, The smallest i could ever go before hearing noticeable were 8" drivers...so i'd LOVE to be proven differently. It owuld be so nice to just have a great set of 6.5s in the rear deck and a 1 sub clean install...

In a previous car I built for SQ (Sound Quality competition) I originally went with a Focal 8" for the front doors(this was before Focal was marketing car audio specific products). I later down the road re-did the doors and stepped down to a 6.5" as I found with experimenting, the smaller woofer had faster attack.

Typically you see 8" midbasses in a 3-way system since the upper midrange is handled by a 4" or 5" driver. Most 8" drivers don't do well with upper midrange.

and it sounded AWESOME!!! I have to say, 6 ohm, dual voice coil setup was amazing, and it was engineered for groups of 3. You'll have a good time with the JLs, just make sure they are connected correctly.

unless I come across something else.

Here's the stats my amp... old school but still cranks. However, the Alpine 'official test' rates it at 95w rather than 50w.

Alpine MRV-T502

Power Output at 12V (20Hz ~ 20kHz):
2 x 50W @ 4 ohm (0.08% THD)
2 x 100W @ 2 ohm (0.3% THD)
1 x 200W @ 4 ohm bridged (0.3% THD)

Power Output at 14.4V (20Hz ~ 20kHz):
2 x 75W @ 4 ohm (0.08% THD)
2 x 150W @ 2 ohm (0.3% THD)
1 x 300W @ 4 ohm bridged (0.3% THD)

Freq. Response: 10Hz ~ 50kHz (+0,-1 dB)
S/N Ratio: 100 dBA
Fuse: 30A
Dimensions: 10.6" x 9.4" x 2.1" (27cm x 24cm x 5.3cm)
Weight: 7.3 lb. (3.3 kg.)
Manufactured in 1998-1999

just sometimes confuse, and then you need a third :)