I have bad credit, but I have a great(to me, first programming job, so not too bad I don't think, in UT to say the least) job now making about 50k a year, plus i still work part time at another job. I'll have between 15 & 20 thousand dollars to put down on an a4. I'd prefer a 2.8 manual over the 1.8, mainly because i don't want to deal with warranty issues and the 2.8 has enough power for me. They used a passat (v6 for $26k) with 10k down as a benchmark to see what i could get approved at and I was approved. I had claimed bankruptcy about 4 years ago is why i have such horrendous credit and I have not gotten any new credit cards or anything to begin rebuilding my credit. I am hoping to put $15k down on a 2.8 a4 and finance the rest. My question is, I have a feeling the salesman is going to try and use my bad credit as leverage on me to not give me 5% over invoice or even close to it, in addition to who knows what. I'm only 24 and probably not terribly experienced at dealing with these guys. Any advice/ideas? They would be greatly appreciated. Also he was telling me if i wanted to order it would be 6 months....i have a feeling this guy won't be willing to search for a car for me that's already built. I get the feeling like he thinks he'd be helping me out selling me any audi and putting anymore effort on his part would be too many favors to ask for, make sense? Advice?

Thanks in advance,
Rich

You raise a bunch of issues.

1. Searching for a "built" car will take him 10 minutes. Audi has them all on a computer.

2. If you thing the guy is treating you badly, find someone else to deal with.

3. Bad credit may influence your interest rate, down payment, etc. but should not properly have an effect on the actual selling price. But you are right...car dealers merge credit terms and price (actually, "confuse" is a better description).

4. 15 to 20K down is huge.

5. Six months seems way too long, even for an order.

6. Talk to a bank or credit union to line up financing. Then, as far as the dealer is concerned, you are a cash buyer.

7. In any event, work out the actual cash price first, then as a separate issue work out the financing (or even leasing) to reflect that agreed cash price. You can get financing through the dealer or on your own.

I used them to finance my car. They approved me within 2 hours and overnighted me a check. The car dealer doesn't have to know anything about your credit. Just walk in, pick out a car you want, and hand him a check. I arranged the price in advance via e-mail. I spent about 20 minutes total at the dealership, got the car I wanted and no hassle. Check www.edmunds.com for advice on buying the car and pricing. It's and extremely helpful sight and will help to know if you are getting a good deal or not.

I just purchased (tonight) a 99.5 A4 2.8Q manual.....

First I have to tell you, don't let him bring up your credit during the negotiation process. Your credit should have absolutely nothing to do with the sale price of the car. Your credit may in fact affect the interest rate you are able to get, but not the price of the car.

Second.. Right now, I would NOT pay 5% over invoice for a 2.8. At least not a 99.5, which is what I would go for.. Unless there is something specific you want, that only a 2000 offers, or you have very specific color/option combo in mind. I had an in depth conversation with the General manager of our local dealership. Right now, the 1.8T's are flying off the lot. The 2.8 is another story. He told me he's always thrilled to sell a 2.8 because they tend to sell much more slowly than the 1.8T. What I usually do is research the costs of car in detail (invoice/retail) and make up a spreadsheet of the car, options you want, and invoice/retail price of each. I would start with 2% over invoice and bring your worksheet to the dealership.

If the dealer hasn't said "no" to your offer, you probably haven't negotiated hard enough. I did a similar deal on a BMW last year, I brought in a worksheet I had printed up showing 3, 4, 5, and 6 percent over invoice. I gave him the 3% over invoice thinking they would reject it.. They took it.. I wish I had gone for 2%!! Don't make the same mistake. With the 99.5 2.8, YOU are in the drivers seat.. It's a buyers market.

Supposedly she was offered big cash (what she paid for it) for her almost-new 99.5 2.8q manual. So I guess it's not quite a buyer's market.

Your other advice is correct, tho.

- Stan

Black/Onyx leather
Convenience pkg (sunroof, remote locking)
Winter pkg (htd seats, ski sack)
Trip computer (toy!!)
Bose upgrade
CD player

55K highway miles (I drive for work, they help pay for car, I take real good care of it)
Never been hit, never been raced (not even on the street).

Edmunds and KBB are over $26,000 for this car, I'll sell for $24,350 to payoff the balance on my lease so I can get a 00 S4 that I've got on order. I'd consider splitting the cost of an extended warranty if that helps. You could probably save $150 a month over the comparable lease deal on a new one, and you'd own, not lease.

E-mail me for details, VIN# etc. If you're interested.

I'm still recovering from my bad credit I aquired during my college days (letting those damn bills pill up). I decided to get a co-signer (my father) and was approved instantly. The car is in my name and I make the payments.... the only purpose of the co-signer is that if you fail to make payments on your car, they go after the co-signer. Since your putting a LOT of money down, and you make good money, this shouldn't be a problem. It's basically the "easy" way out, but I wanted my A4 ASAP and didn't feel like waiting another 6 months to improve my credit. Just my $.02.

Mike D.
2.8qtms

That's why the offer for my car came up.
I'm still waiting for some eager, cash-laden, "I just got my signing bonus" 24 year old with more testosterone than brains to come waltzing into Rector Motors and talk to Dave L about a 2.8 model, and want to receive one BEFORE THE NEXT MILLENIUM...
Rector's got no new 2.8's, just a few used, and a waiting list for 00 models.... that's where my car comes in. Less than 6 months old, got all the options, etc etc.

Sure I'll sell it- for what I paid for it. I'll lose sales tax already, and the buyer SAVES paying $2500-3000 on sales tax. I paid exactly 4% over invoice, and I understand the 00's are going for 6% over unless there are some heavy negotiations.

Then it's the same decision as Steve S- 00 1.8T (conservative choice) or cough up for an S4?
We all know he'll take the Nhwweuughuaaroo blue S4, but there's still that tiny little voice saying "cmon be reasonable and get the 1.8T"...