I'm a regular on the S4 board as I've been dying for this car to come to the states. But... I can't get the S4 until I've sold my A4. I need advice. Has anyone sold their A4s on the Internet, have you used Yahoo classifieds, Stoneage.com, etc?

How much should I list the car for? It's black and has leather, sunroof, Bose, CD changer, trip computer, digital hands-free phone. I've seen a bunch of 98 2.8s for around $27-29,000 but my car has about 55K highway miles (cause I travel for work) which is a little high. My dealer suggested $24,350, which has been my working figure.

Any advice would be welcomed.

Can you have a 3rd party inspect the car on their behalf, etc? Do they mail you a check and then I pay off the loan balance and send them the title and the keys? What's the process??

Tommy T

I typed in what you said, and it spit back: $26,295 in my area.

-Kuthair

the insurance company valued the car at $28,875. I had come up with pretty much the same number so I accepted their first offer. The car was in immaculate condition (prior to the mishap :-) and had 22000 miles on it.

Keith

Try www.edmunds.com or www.nada.org also to get an average number. All of those sites take into account mileage and will add/subtract $$$ based on miles under/over the expected for that year.

Also call you bank or credit union, they have access to a beter NADA site that they use for loan evaluations.

3rd party checkout is usually a given; the buyer should pay for this. Try to get a copy of the car check for your own records.

Have never sold a car where the title wasn't in my hot little hands. Since in general bank/loan shark (whatever) will not release title until they have been paid, you might both (buyer and you) go to the loan shark. Also, to sell it to new party, you need the title. If buyer doesn't come to pick up car, don't know what you do. Otherwise, think process is:
1) Buyer/seller go to place where title is held
2) Buyer gives money to seller (recommend a bank check), either sign it over to the loan shark and have them "refund" you difference between loan & selling price or you hand your own cvheck to loan hark.
3) Title is now released. You can now go to DMV or any place that can handle a title transfer (maybe loan shark can do this).

A lot of this is very specific to the state you live in; above is based on my exerience here in Steelertown (Pittsburgh, PA). Would recommend calling the loan shark that has the title and see what they say. In general, I would say title has to change hands to make it official. All I can say is don't acccept personal checks; insist on bank checks (believe they're easiest to transfer without a wait period). Alos, try to do it on a weekday so official parties (banks) or gummint bureaucracies can talk to each other if needed.

I had a 98 2.8 qtip that was loaded (30K miles), I was trying to sell it for 3 months at first 29,000, then finally down to 27,500. I had no luck. I used the local paper, the Auto Trader web site and paper and also AutoWeb.com. I got a few calls, but eventually had to turn it in to the dealer at wholesale price (23,000). Hope you have better luck. I too think the Kelly prices are high, either way, maybe it is just tough to sell an used car that is so expensive (relatively).

Mike
99.5 2.8 Avant qmss

When I was shopping around I was offered a used car (pasting from my notes):

96 A4 quattro,5sp,leather,moonroof,39,600 miles, Sunburst red /w cream leather interior, Kelley Blue Book $25,095, my price $22,800.

I thought: why buy a car that somebody has been driving around for 4 years, out of warranty. I bought new one for $24,000, not fully loaded but I don't care for leather, sunroof and gadgets.

Bottom line: $22,800 for 4-year old car vs. $24,000 new. Not a tough decision considering that Audis are not champions of reliability.

dealers laugh when you show them the printouts. Unfortunatly, they are based on some sort of national averages and aren't applicable in any cases. I've found that the market chooses the price; looking at Pennysaver/Autotrader/Recycler for a few weeks will give you the price range.

If you got the new car for $24,000, then it must be a 1.8T. A 4-year old 1.8T would not be selling for $22,800 (too high).

So in your circumstance, the difference between a new 1.8T and a 4-year old 1.8T is probably a lot more than $1200.

I agree with you, a new 1.8T is more desirable than a 4-year old 2.8 with the 12V engine. But, I think you need to realize that you didn't spend a mere $1200 more to get the new car. More like $4000+ to get a new 1.8T vs. a 4-year old 1.8T.

Loaded 98.0 2.8 (leather, quattro, Bose, cold-weather, Tip, sunroof) for 27,500 versus new 99 for what, 33K or 34K? Still, I thought it was a fair price given that I had taken the 1st years' depreciation and had maintained the car well. Obviously, no buyers did!

Mike