Worth the coin?

or is it only available as part of their new kit?

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15038/ported_polished_enlarged_im.jpg"></center><p>Sorry for the fuzzy pic. This is my intake from a 93 urS4. It has been ported and polished, inside and out. The top was cut off and a new piece fitted that enlarged the interior capacity. I also had the tubes that give access to the lower mounting bolts drilled out. The throttle body went to Big Ed for the Big Bore mod that eliminated the ramp and added a new butterfly and rotation pin.

Hap, wit da kine modded intake in Evahboost

I only think that 10-15 hp is gained if your making over 500 hp with the stock manifold. Wont really help if your below that since the stock manifold does not have a flow issue at that point.

Ive seen ADB ones for Jettas and Golfs for like 500, and thought it coudn't be that much more

which has the TB on the very end vs the longitude intake manifold which has the TB on the side facing the #2 cylinder runner.

That manifold from Dahlback is pretty much just stock runners with a new box welded to it and is produced in Europe.

There might be demand or significant gain for ours. Guess not for the price!

PS Is Juan away? I havent heard from him in a while.....

The longi one is NIICE though...

I have the transverse one on my car for some time and I really like it.

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/63033/sideofintake.jpg"></center><p>The hp gain is not what the intake is about, that is what bigger turbos do:-)
These intakes were done to increase torque which they o very well and smooth the powerband which they also do, and to feed the cylinders which they also seem to do. I personally think it is worth it to keep from running a lean cylinder, the extra torque was a bonus. It is definately the last thing I decided to do on the engine, but it was well worth it to me. Look at the dyno figures of the different cars at the 1.8t challenge if they ever publkish them and you will see the difference it makes. I beleive the int./exh. mani is the big diff. in the torque #'s as I beleive the cams are the diff. in the hp #'s in most cars. I posted some Pics of my manifold, which was the first done.
Just my opinion.
Rod

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/63033/frontofintake.jpg"></center><p>

Only way you can test that intake manifold is on 1 car with a before and after test. BTW their tq numbers fell to 360 at the wheels vs their run on the dynojet which showed 400+ tq. Now if you want find a car that has dyno'd over and over showing the same amount of hp/tq each time with the stock manifold then put that manifold on to see what the gains are if there are any.

BTW someone else asked for the flow specs of this manifold and TJM/Dahlback would not release them or exactly what was gained with a $1700 intake manifold that is still using the stock runners.

Thats all I said. For whatever reason, the torque is there on his car and not much on others. Also the power curve is very robust thruout and not just a big # spike. Look, I dont own stock in this company, but I know it was a good design and it was built to compliment the geometry of a tall block engine and it works. I am very happy with it and to me it was worth the cash, but as I said in an earlier e-mail it is the last step to an expensive but well thought out build. No, it isnt something for a stage 3+ with a stock block just like cams. But on a car that was built to spec using the best of everything it did what was advertised. I am sending it to NH to have front subframe strengthening and some revised shift linkage so I will get a dyno run done. If I have time I will swap a stock intake on and get some back to back #'s.

However, regardless of gains in HP or torque it is still worth it to know that flow is damn near equal to all cylinders and there are no lean or rich cylinders in there, even the best A/F guage shows blended results. As I have said before I build engines to last a long time and look at everything before I start making pistons, rods, etc.. So spend your money however, I have peace of mind when I flog mine.
Rod

which spools up fast and then just holds. You are just leaving out a ton of info and just basing his power band on the high priced mannifold. His hp #'s were just above mine and he was running much more boost then I was which also accounts for his much higher tq levels since I am running a much larger turbo.

If you want to prove it makes the gain you claim it does then show some "data". Others have asked for that data and it was never shown, they also asked to test the manifold on a car that has been on the dyno already and they would not do that either. No one is going to sell a $1700 part if there are is no data to back up the claim.

<center><img src="http://www.psycode.com/pics/mani1.jpg"></center><p>billet end tanks, rolled flat sheet for the plenum, stock aeb runners

for more info:
http://forum.vwsport.com/viewtopic.php?t=7509

I also said the main reason was equal flow and saving your engine. I am sure you must be a great guy after one gets past your argumentative nature;-)
Rod

its called taking your stock one, cutting it open and porting it all out, then welding it back together again.

dont you have a really low compression engine? Stop bitching about boost and crank it up or shut up already. Arent you like 8:1 compression ratio? What was the point of this?You ran more boost on the T28 kit on a stock engine. It all just seems really silly to me. Can your big bad engine you hyped so much handle it or not? Do you regret your fully built engine or afraid its gonna pop yet again? You have been working on the setup for a very long time. Maybe standalone would be beneficial since it looks like you cant get it done with chip tuning.

So far there has been no point to your built engine or results either. The low c/r of your engine hinders spoolup a lot and you arent taking advantage of running more boost= pointless.

Right now I run 1.4 off the line and 1.65 bar in 3rd and 4th gear.

How have I been working on the setup for a long time? The car got tuned before dubwars(aug) and has not been touched since then. Sorry but when I want to dump more money into this car I will and not a minute sooner and its not like this car is built to increase sales at my shop since I am NOT A shop owner.

Just shows you dont know **** since I lost rings and did not POP my motor, but then you might know that if you pulled your head out your ass. BTW I cant run more boost because my maf sensor hits 100% and cuts the fuel off.

NO thanks, I will just end up going to a larger maf housing. Only way I would go "no maf" would be when I go stand alone and that wont happen anytime soon.

But if you'd rather wait in line for a chip every time you want to change something, that's fine, too.

Standalone's the way to go with your car, or at least something that's user tuneable.

and was even able to remove the dead spot at 3k rpms which is where the injectors go from single to dual pulse. Once I fix the maf issue the car should be good to go again.

Does it just offset the values in the chip or do you have full control?

I can change all fuel values that the lemmiwinks allows.

What do you mean by "what lemmiwinks allows"?

but the only ones I have used to tune my setup are

Ch 04 - startup fuel enrich
Ch 02 - increasing load fuel tweak
Ch 03 - decreasing load fuel tweak


Plan on doing changes

Ch 09 - ignition timing offset, once I start running 110 or 117 octane.