like I've said ealier, I HAD a BOV for a while, but today I put in a Bosch 710N and thats working great. Since its after my cooler the airvolum flowing is not too much<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/40674/bpv.jpg">

I tried to keep a pretty OEM look. The wrap on my manifold and some blue hoses are pretty much everything thats obvious different.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/40674/turbo.jpg">

I've mounted a forge FMIC. Not a kit, just bought the core. DIY stuff. Its not as small as it looks. think its about 25x9x3"...
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/40674/turbo_011.jpg">

behind the covers I do not have the OEM airbox though. I have a alu shield and a blingbling filter. (blitz sus).
3" maf. You also see the hose from the PCV system. Hidden temporary oil catch can...
You also see the BPV return hose going in before the turbo...
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/40674/turbo_001.jpg">


Any comments? Looks good? :)

Jamez.

I am not sure I understand how your DV is setup, can you tell me a little about that? Also, how did you setup the 3" maf? What turbo are you running? Did you keep your stock SMIC too, I would think that the front mount would do a pretty good job alone and the 2 IC's would drop to much boost. I am just asking questions, trying to learn, it really does look like a good setup.

I have removed the SMIC, of course... I dont need its cooling, and like you say, flow and pressureloss...

The 3" MAF is actually just a new hosing with OEM sensor.
Its bolted right onto the filter. Got some kind of velocity stack inside the filter to get laminar flow...
The DV setup is like OEM, only I have relocated the valve to right before the throttlebody. That way I Keep pressure inside the cooler, and it flows cooled air back to the turbo. Denser air, so that volum dont have to be that large...

Manifold is custom welded, not unlike the APR one though. turbo is a GT25...

hope this helped :)

a guy here (at work, high tech engineering co) who is a respected colleague is very into SCCA formula ford racing. he owns his own car and works on it in his garage.

we had a discussion regarding exhaust manifold wrap, and he said that anyone in his race group that used the stuff tended to go though exhaust manifolds often. perhaps from overheating?

anyone have opinions on this?

that it doestn make too much of a difference.
I just thought It should help as this is a pulsmanifold. designed to keep the energy in the exhaust burst. If they're cooled, alot of energy is lost-&gt; so wrap...

I was thinking of getting it ceramic coated, but that was too long a wait...

"anyone in his race group that used the stuff tended to go though exhaust manifolds often. perhaps from overheating?"

You're saying that it might crack or anything and have to be watched after often?
Might be... I'm keeping an eye on it, but not going to unwrap it the first few years...

thx, btw...

it fatigues the steel, usually leading to cracking, holes, and generally bad things.

I'll keep it for sure.
Its a very good manifold, and it actually looks better with the wrap. Well, thats my opinion.
Since its welded blacksteel...

On a street car that it used in all weather conditions, I think that the wrap holds in moisture and accelerates the corrosion process.

(WARNING: STRONG OPINION FOLLOWS. SOME MAY BE OFFENDED, BUT THE TRUTH DOES SUCK SOMETIMES)

Header wrap is an evil conspiracy of the header manufacturers, designed to rot out your header in very short order, and require that you buy a replacement every year or so.

It's true. Unless you've got REALLY good reasons to keep underhood temps down (not the typical street ones that you're about to cite)(so don't say 'blahblahblah and my kanuder valve won't work if it's over 286 deg. F. at the locus of points on the graph of my fuel map"), keep the hell away from header wrap.

It'll crack and rot your headers faster than you would believe. The exact mechanism of destruction is controversial, but the results AREN'T. My belief is that the wicking/capillary composition of all wraps wick and collect moisture as a header cools, and that, along with heat stress and embrittlement from that stress, rots the header out.

The racer community is smart enough to stay away from header wraps. The street community hasn't figured it out yet.

Header wraps suck.

keep the header area ventillated, hood vent or some type of duct like people do for brakes, and then just wrap inlet tubing to keep intake temps down.?

opinions??

Is that a stock TB hose? Also, does anyone with a samco TB hose have way more bend in their setup? Should I "circumcise" my TB hose to make it a little less curvy? It could lose about an inch on the ic side and still fit well.

Your setup looks/sounds good. what kind of engine management are you using?

What level of trimming was required?
What bumper is that by the way?

core on my s4 bumper.

the ceramic coating doesn't hold as much heat in, so it won't be as bad

If you straighten it out, you run the risk of popping a hose off or break

I've seen people say they're going to put 11x20x3 cores in there. =/

I just cut about an inch off the ic side and my car feels a lot better. There is still plenty of curve, actually the right amount of curve the hose has naturally. I'm going to post in the a4 forum about this to tell the whole story.

didnt have to trim that much though. not a problem really.

bumper is a JE design...

getting it remappet this or the next week.

clears the reinforcement now, after som cutting on it :)

Good to now if I wish to buy a REAL cooler :D :D
This one will do FINE for a while :)

...the wise thing is to do nothing. It doesn't make that much of a difference.

If you're obsessed about it, go with something like Swain Technology's Thermal Barrier ceramic coating.