Pulled the motor out of my car. In addition to replacing the clutch, there are some gaskets and seals that need to be replaced as well, so I decided to pull the motor instead of dropping the trans. It's actually easier, since most of the work is done above the car and not under, and takes about the same amount of time.

I also checked my turbo, and it's bad, it's got a lot of play in it, almost enough for the blades to hit the compressor housing :(

Tomorrow I'm pulling the head to check for any signs of detonation.

Let me know if there are any picture requests.

The start of the carnage:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/12130/start.jpg">

Passenger side:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/12130/eng_side.jpg">

Driver side:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/12130/eng_side2.jpg">

Back side:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/12130/eng_back.jpg">

At least the turbo swap will be a lot easier with the engine out.. What clutch you thinking of putting in? looks your car is down 2 weeks?
good luck..

jaime

the 1.8T?

Juan has one made specially for the APR lightweight flywheel.

My guess, it will be down for about 3-4 weeks. I've got to send the flywheel to APR to have a new friction surface put in, and that could take at least two weeks with all the shipping involved.

and I was taking my time. Definately not something you want to rush.

I also took a lot of breaks for dinner, Simpsons, etc. :)

It's my dad's old 68 race car. There's also a 69 and a 79 in there.

My dad said I was corrupting his "Camaro garage" with my Audi. I told him the convertible Cavalier that was in there, already did that :)

He's also got a pole barn with a lift in it and just about any tool I could ever need.

You da man!! =P

I just put it on ramps. The only thing that I needed to get under the car was for the the trans bolts underneath.

what did you use attach the chains to the engine?

one on the back, and one on the front, I just ran a bolt/nut through the chain and loops.

thanks!

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/620/noeng.jpg"></center><p>I went through the same thing when I pulled my engine. I'm going to pull it again in the near future because the clutch I had custom made is faulty. It's nice to see that I'm not the only one that thinks it is easier to pull the engine than drop the trans to do the clutch. Without a lift, it's just too big of a pain to spend 6 hours lying on your back. Good Luck

<ul><li><a href="http://www.theylabs.com">They</a></li></ul>

<center><img src="http://home.ec.rr.com/miktip/crankseal1.jpg"></center><p>I can pull the 5-speed gearbox from my 93 90 in 2.5 hours!

I cannot see how pulling the engine is quicker?

How many hours to pull your motor?

Different strokes for different folks I guess ;0)

That's fast. This is without using a lift? Being FWD makes things easier. Any tips or tricks that may convince me to pull the trans instead of the engine?

It's really not that hard IMHO to drop the trans. The only difference with quattro vs FWD is 1 more drive shaft.

Taking my time, they both are about 5-6 hour jobs. I didn't use a lift when I did the trans either. I'm sure if I hurried up, I could have it done much quicker, but I don't like to rush these kind of things.

Personally, I think pulling the motor is easier. When you drop the trans, you're constantly sliding around on the floor, getting up, going back down, etc, etc.
When you pull the motor, all the work is done up top except for removing the engine-trans bolts.

Plus, I also had some work to do to the motor (leaking seals, leaking waterpump, blown turbo, etc) and it's easier to work on out of the car.

We'll see how easy it is to get it back in :)

Oh, and the quattro trans weighs more than a FWD trans.

while youre at it =).
thanks

<center><img src="http://home.ec.rr.com/miktip/5speedside1.jpg"></center><p>"Pneumatic tools"! :o)

Drop lower subframe and move out of the way.

Use special gearbox jack!

<img src="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/39100-39199/39178.gif" border="0">

Chain wrenck vise grips hold inner CV to remove its bolts!
<img src="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/05800-05899/05831.gif" border="0">

Just to name a few!

One month, I dropped my 1986 Coupes gearbox 3 times because of clutch problems.

My 93 90, I changed the clutch 2 weeks ago, and had its gearbox out 2.5! Mainly due to recently installing the complete gearbox only a few months earlier, so it was still fresh in my mind. :o)

The clutch master/slave cylinders are plastic, so you can't really shorten/lengthen them.
Besides, adjusting the master cylinder length will only raise/lower the pedal, but not the release point in relation to the top of the pedal.
I don't think adjusting the slave cylinder length would do anything, because the throw-arm is already as far back in the bellhousing (this is the main problem) as it can go.

I can think of two possibilities:
1. put a spacer between the engine and the trans.
2. Modify the throw-arm by shifting the throwout bearing forward/back a little.

These, of course, would be fixed positions, and would take some trial and error. I don't have that kind of time :)

big hex bolt to the right(back) of the tranny if you get the chance. TIA

I still have my old trans, so I can look into it, but I need to know what you're talking about first.

By the back, do you mean tailshaft area? Passenger side, driver side, top, bottom?

Have you tried bleeding the clutch cylinders? You could have some air in there.

anyway, forget about it. thanks.