The clutch point is so high, that if I go WOT, and just tap the clutch pedal, it will slip. I recently noticed that sometimes going WOT after just releasing the clutch, it slips a little.
My guess is that the slave cylinder is putting pressure on the clutch. I had to open the bleeder valve and bleed some fluid out in order to get the slave cylinder on after replacing the clutch.
If it's self-adjusting, then there might be something I can un-adjust to get the clutch point where it should be.
Or, if I can push the pedal down a little, and open the slave cylinder bleeder valve, let some fluid out, and close it, will that be my new release point, or will it just go back to the way it was before?

Anyone have some ideas?

Thanks,

the clutch pedal from the clutch master cylinder. All you have to do is take out the bottom cover - 4 screws I think, I behind the fuse box cover, 2 hidden behind those rectangular plastic covers in the knee area, and one slighlty above gas pedal. Takes a few minutes to do. I had to do this on an AutoX once.

sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you listed 3 of the telltale signs..

1st on hydraulic clutches is high catch point,(not good)
2nd clue is barely touching the pedal and it disengaging..
and the 3rd is you said it slips sometime at WOT...

it's about gone.

sorry

-rich
'86 4kq

he just installed a upgraded clutch flywheel package not too long ago when he replaced his tranny. IIRC

hey you have that 2.8 tranny right i think the arm that pushes on the sleev is smaller i was looking at my EIS part CD US verion is ETKA and it shows that the 2.8 has a longer clutch arm.

clutch arm looks like a fork this could be the reason why it is soo high. the specs show that it is about .25 of an inch shorter on the 1.8T.

you might want to look into this and consult an Audi Parts guy and tech.

Juan M.

P.S. if you need part numbers or pics of the part i can FWD them to you via E-mail i have the diagram on CD.

would need to be on the slave cylinder side.
I'm going to try and bleed the system, but I'm not sure if it will help.

doesn't have it's shaft exposed. I'm surprised you don't see a treaded rod. I believe the cutoff to go to a fix rod was '98

not the release point in relation to the top of the pedal. I unhooked the rod to make sure the pedal wasn't putting any pressure on it, and it wasn't.

It wouldn't suprise me if the slave cylinder is not adjustable. I just hope it's something simple, and not a bad slave cylinder, or worse.