i just read your post about rotors and i think i might have some very useful rotor info for you...email me and we can discuss!!<p>i know of some options that will fall into your price range!!<p>i would have emailed you but you didnt leave an address.<p>David White<br>98 2.8qm (with recent brake upgrades)

Below is the info i sent to Jet Pilot......<p>I am not a brake expert and this contains many opinions!!<p>Feel free to email me with questions....it is easier and more convenient for me to reply to emails than it is to post replies.<p>David White<br>98 2.8qm<br>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<p>If i remember correctly you said you wanted new rotors (under $100 each)<br>that wouldnt warp as easily...or something like that....<p>I warped the crap out of my rotors (on track) and recently replaced them<br>(along with the stock pads)....i think the stock pads are the main<br>culprit because they dont dissipate heat as well as they should for<br>track use!<p>Example: a friend of mine races his neon in SCCA showroom stock class<br>and he ran stock pads recently at a driving school (not in a race!) and<br>they destroyed his rotors and transmitted enough heat to damage his<br>calipers and some suspension parts!!! Moral of the story...stock pads<br>arent made for serious use...they are for the street!!<p>Here is what i did....i bought Brembo OE replacements (no slots, no<br>holes) and had them cryogenically treated and bought good aftermarket<br>pads!<p>I (along with many others) dont reccomend using cross drilled rotors due<br>to cracking issues. <br>Slotted rotors are good, they provide an outlet for gasses and water<br>vapor that might build up between the pad surface and the rotor surface<br>which can hinder your braking ability.<p>After a long discussion with people from Carbotech Engineering (more on<br>them in a sec) about rotor technologies and new pad technologies i<br>decided to go with the OE replacements. Basically (from what i was<br>told), with the technology involved in the good brake pad compounds, you<br>shouldnt have problems with the gas buildup, so you dont really need the<br>slots....and slotting removes some of the rotor material, so the heat<br>dissipation wont be as good.<p>Now about carbotech (and no i dont work for them)....they are a small<br>company in florida that makes pads mainly for racing use...very popular<br>among the SCCA crowd...they sell Brembo rotors and can cryogenically<br>treat the rotors....i bought pads made from their Super Street F<br>compound, they are supposed to be great for street and good for autoX<br>and light track use....<p>About the cryo treatment...basically they freeze the crap out of the<br>rotors, which changes the material structure of the rotor and makes it<br>less resistant to warping and last alot longer...for more info check out<br>ther web site: http://www.carbotecheng.com/<br>you can call them up and talk to them about it...you can buy rotors from<br>them or send them your new rotors and they will treat them...<p>i bought the rotors from them (around 60 each, i cant remember) and the<br>treatment was under 40 each (i think)...so you are still under 100 each<br>plus they are supposed to last 2 to 3 times longer!!<p>Another option is to buy ATE powerdisc rotors....they are OE<br>replacements that are slotted and you can get them from Adirondack (i<br>think) for $55 each!!<br>

Thanks Dave for your help. The info you gave me on Adirondak parts was the best. They also carry a rotor made by Zimmerman, the company that makes oe rotors for Porsche cars. The discs are "drilled" but aren't. The holes are cast into the rotor so cracking will not be a problem.<p>The prices were exceptionaly reasonable at 65ea. for fronts, and 59ea. for rears. I was quoted 125ea. for fronts and 105ea. for rears from Audi for the factory rotors.<p>I will post my opinions on the rotors once I get them on the car. I will be using Mintex Red Box pads. <p>Thanks again.

I have Zimmermans on my car, but they had a big problem with the rear rotors. Apparently the fiche that Audi puts out has the wrong part # for the rears on the quattro, so Zimmerman only has a rear rotor for the FWD car. If the rear rotor you get looks like you have to get into the wheel bearing, you have the wrong part.