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Recent Audis do not come with dipsticks, and for those of you who change your own oil or simply want to check your own oil for whatever reason, you can buy the tool that technicians use. The tool from Audi/VW directly is tool T40178 and costs about $200. It's, essentially, an "adjustable" dipstick. What you do is take the PDF attached, look up the engine, and then "adjust" the dipstick since the dipstick is used for all Audi models. In the case of my D5, it's engine code CZSE so I adjust the 'ring' to 76, and then the max oil level is "14".
The tool has since been superceded to T40178-B which adds the ability to measure oil on the R8. Since that is not useful for me, and because there is no 'generic' tool for the B version, I got this instead:
If there are issues with the tool, I will report back, but it's a well reviewed 'generic' tool company.
Do not be alarmed with the PDF stating it's for the 2018 A8. Remember, this car was launched in Europe in 2018, and the D5 is referred to as the A8 4N, which the PDF references.
Hi Angry.
Thanks for this info. I downloaded your pdf, but for some reason can open only page 7 of it . Can you try to repost it again ? In case it won't work - please tell what should be the value for 2021 4.0 engine.
Thanks for this info. I downloaded your pdf, but for some reason can open only page 7 of it . Can you try to repost it again ? In case it won't work - please tell what should be the value for 2021 4.0 engine.
I'm thinking my only option is to drill a hole in the part remaining in the tube and use a screw tap extractor to get ahold and pull it out. I guess my concern would be whether I might create shavings that drop into the crank case and that causes issues. Really ticks me off that they broke it and did not deal with it.
Plug sitting loose in tube. Broken piece Part remaining in the tube.
I'd tell the dealer to fix it, frankly. It's probably fine (caught in the oil filter), but that's absolutely horrible. Needle nose pliers might work too, or that entire tube can be replaced.
I'd tell the dealer to fix it, frankly. It's probably fine (caught in the oil filter), but that's absolutely horrible. Needle nose pliers might work too, or that entire tube can be replaced.
Thanks, do you have any diagrams that show where that tube attaches? I'm not inclined to go through the accusations and denials with my dealer....they've already refused to deal with my dash rattles claiming it's normal and within spec --- which is also nonsense. I haven't had a car that rattles this much since my Triumph Tr4 in the 1970s. In fact, I gave him videos showing 4 different cars going over the same surfaces and none rattled, while my A8 sounds like there is a can of screws behind the dash over the same surface.
Thanks, do you have any diagrams that show where that tube attaches? I'm not inclined to go through the accusations and denials with my dealer....they've already refused to deal with my dash rattles claiming it's normal and within spec --- which is also nonsense. I haven't had a car that rattles this much since my Triumph Tr4 in the 1970s. In fact, I gave him videos showing 4 different cars going over the same surfaces and none rattled, while my A8 sounds like there is a can of screws behind the dash over the same surface.
Sorry I don't have the slightest clue how to even fix this. Maybe escalate to Audi USA.
Drawing a hard vacuum on the top of the tube might allow crankcase air pressure (engine not running and oil fill cap off) of 14.7 psi to push the broken piece out. Although a tube inside diameter of maybe 1/4" only yields 14.7 x 1/16 in² = less than one pound of force. I don't know what kind of vacuum is drawn by oil extraction equipment but, if it doesn't have a good vacuum pump, there probably isn't a hard vacuum being drawn. It might take a dedicated vacuum pump maybe like one used for AC work. A broken cap suggests a force greater than one pound is needed to pull out the plug so pushing with a pound of air pressure may not work but.........it's a thought.
I am wondering about the sequence of operations that led to your broken plug. Did it occur when the service guy pushed the plug back in after the oil change? Or is it more likely that it broke when twisting and pulling to try to get the plug out....and then he just put the broken part back in and claimed that the oil was changed....hoping that someone else would get the blame at your next oil change interval?
I would take it to the dealer for the oil change and pretend you know nothing about it. after the change I would go back to the dealer and say you were looking at the engine compartment and found this and what the hell is going on and let them deal with it by replacing the whole line. I wouldn't trust them to not jam it in further or leave pieces in there.
I would find a plastic rod as close in diameter as the plug remaining inside. Put some epoxy on the tip enough to glue to the remainder of the plug. This one I use is quite strong, wait for 1 hr. Feel that it binds to the plug and yank it out really hard and fast, it may move up a little or out completely. I wouldn't trust the dealer to do it. I would not want it to drop into the engine, I'm sure if it drops in there, removing the oil pan would be the only choice to take it out. Not sure if it's flat or hollow of the remainder plug surface. This is also the reason why I do the work myself when I have a chance regardless.
11-18-2023, 03:58 AM
