Gary Knox

I just completed replacement of F and R in our 2013 3.0 Liter car. Fronts are quite easy. Rears best done using the VAG system from Ross-Tech. IF you want a write-up of the procedure I used (Akebono pads - good stopping, almost no dusting), send me a private message with your email address and I'll forward you a copy. It will give you a perspective on tools, as there are some special ones needed.

Gary-

bluextc

Few months ago I changed out my wife's A8L rear rotors and pads for about $180. Dealer wanted $1200 for rear brakes.
Meyle brand rear rotors and Hudson Ceramic pads for rear. (never heard of Hudson but I love it. No dust what so ever)
Also changed out front pad with Brembo ceramic. (hard to believe these are ceramic. they dust less than oem but its still very dusty...maybe I expected too much)
I'd suggest DIY but rear brakes require a scan tool to release the calipers. Indy shops quoted me $200 to $400 on labor, parts provided by me.
I bought a scan tool on sale and did the brakes myself and saved some money.


scan tool for rear brake calipers

meyle rotors are much cheaper than Audi rotors.

abarmard

Good afternoon,
Would you please forward me the instructions on the brake job on the Audi A8.
here is my email address;

monzavifar@hotmail.com

thank you very much

Gary Knox

I will forward the info to abarmard, but for anyone who wants these, PLEASE send me a Private Message with your email address. I don't check this web site more than once a week, so without the PM (which is forwarded to my email) You might not get a resopnse!!

bswartz

This is a little old, compared to the OP, but I want to confirm the posts on this thread related to replacing brakes with non-dealer parts. I was quoted $3000 for full break job, OEM parts from https://www.fcpeuro.com/Audi-parts/Brake/ were < $1000 total. The brake job was a piece of cake, the only issue/special tool was the scan tool to reset the rear parking brake lock. And as a note as I threw my old pads away recently, they had SIGNIFICANT amount of material left, but the wear was uneven. So they probably had deposits on the rotors. I drive my car hard in the mountains (downshifting and braking hard), so that "could" be the reason for the deposits? (who knows).

Any way, love my new brakes, the significant shuttering that OP mentioned is all gone.