statgator

Yes It does come with four bolts. I do have a whole set of the triple box that I picked up for doing the transmission and brakes. I also have a set of Allen so I should be good there too.

The center bolt, the one that is supposed to be very difficult, the one where it was suggested to use a very long pry bar, is that bolt removable with a half inch electric impact?

Are all of these bolts removable with that 1/2-in electric impact?

Striker2237

I would try it.....but those 17s can max out my 850ish FT/LB impact and I just heat them as standard procedure. It's like 2/3 without heat but you need a top level impact and socket bit to do that.

statgator

So I suggested previously I should loosen the bolt in the center of the wheel before taking the car off the ground and removing the wheel. Now you're suggesting to heat that bolt. How do I do that with the wheel in the way?

Also to heat the bolt I have a map gas torch used to do plumbing and I have a welder that I don't know how to use. How are these types of bolts heated? Do I have what I need?

My torque wrench doesn't come anywhere near 800 ft lb. So it looks like I'm going to need another torque wrench too. Damn

Striker2237

Wheel off if you are using heat, keep it on if you are going to do the breaker bar tactic. I would have someone hold the brakes so there isn't any stress put into the driveline/parking prawl.

Likely doesn't matter but I don't like doing it.

The TQ wrench is only for initial tighten not final or removal, use a breaker bar for that since TQ angle wrenches are usually expensive (mine was $1250) and these take a lot of force for the 180*

Heat in my shop is provided by oxy acetylene gas, oxy map torches are adequate for this but will take longer and require more aggression. Most hardware stores sell a mini oxy map torch kit and according to my two friends they work adequately enough on older fords. I can't confirm this since whenever they can't do something I end up doing it so I've never used their kits.

MP4.2+6.0

FWIW, never had to use heat on a CV joint bolt on ANY Audi with a splined shaft CV and a cartridge bearing. Probably 15 CV bolt pulls for bearing or boots. I suppose snow and ice belt may be different, but not for CA cars at least. Big lever arm remains my go to. Wheel on ground, parking brake set, wheel chocks on a few to prevent car movement. Swivel joint of breaker bar (with any necessary stubby extension for spacing out from wheel) supported by a jack stand set to same height. Stand on bar lever arm, always ready stance wise for sudden drop if breaker bar pivot snaps. My experience is probably in the 6-800 foot pound range. So at 6 feet 100-175 pounds near end of lever material. At 4-½ feet (like a steel floor jack handle slipped over breaker bar), probably full body weight--a momentary body rise/lift then compression can give an impact effect, but again have stance such that you can deal with sudden wrench snap.

statgator

Thanks to both of you for all of that information. I'm working up the courage and you guys are definitely helping. I won't have the benefit of air tools to do this job. But I am planning on buying that half inch electric impact for about $90 at harbor freight. One of my concerns is the bolts on the caliper carrier were very difficult to remove the last time I took them off and I had the vehicle up in the air almost 20" to do it. I had to put a ratchet on the bolts and smack it with a 5 lb mini sledgehammer to break them loose. I won't have the benefit of having the car 20 in off the ground this time. I'm almost 100% sure I will not be able to put the electric impact on the back bolt of the caliper carrier. Very little room in there.

MP4, thank you for describing how you square up the breaker bar to the bolt using a jack stand. I had to read it a couple times to figure out what you were trying to convey. Very appreciated on that one. That might be an obvious trick but I have very little experience with cars and I'm learning these tricks as I go.

​​​​​I was planning on purchasing a section of black pipe to go over the handle of my breaker bar. So I can buy it any length. Sounds like 6 ft is the sweet spot. Does a black pipe just big enough to go over the handle of my breaker bar work or do I need something stronger than that?

​​​​​​​I have to find one of my old posts so I can figure out what the torque spec of all the bolts is. A8_New_England helped me with this some time ago. Just got find that.

I'm going to attempt to do this without heat since I don't really like the idea of using heat that much. Since I don't know what I'm doing and I don't even have the right type of torch.

If anybody wants to toss me any more advice I would gladly take it. Also for $400 roughly, I can watch a professional do this job on my vehicle. I'm considering that but I have done this job all the way to the caliper Carrier coming off so I'm really at just five more bolts. If anybody thinks I should pay the $400 and watch it being done for the first time please say so before I get into this elbows deep....

​​​​​​​Thanks

MP4.2+6.0

For the pipe, a couple of choices. A steel (NOT aluminum/alloy) jack handle is very tough metal and the handle end is usually open/hollow. A little short though. Pipe: either black or galvanized. NOT conduit other than rigid grade steel (which is basically same as pipe but non tapered threads). Best to get oversized for the strength. So, not just a ¾" or even a 1". 1-¼ or 1-½" best IIRC. Doesn't matter if wrench handle slops around a bit, or slip a secondary sleeve in for that. 6" is about sweet spot. I have used up to 8-10' in probably a 2", just based on old material laying around at car work site.

Spray any accessible bolt you intend to remove with penetrant, like yet today if possible. I try to replace any suspension and brake mounting bolts I remove. At least locktite them going back in. Also apply anti seize to logical stuff, like a light finger smear on hub face (but NOT into lug bolt holes) before putting rotor back. Or, do back of rotor center area to avoid getting it in lug bolt threads.

Remember, you should have VCDS or similar tool to open rear brake calipers. You hopefully have that. Frankly, when I am in this deep, if brake pads half worn or more, I sometimes just throw a new set on (both sides) if I got them ahead of time. Won't require rotor or brake caliper bracket removal on other side.

statgator

Thank you for the information on the pipe. I'll get the bigger diameter and let it slop around. I do have the VCDS and I just did the rotors and brake pads. So I'm good there.

Thanks for all your help. My next assignments are to look up the torque specs for all the bolts and jot them down and then try to watch a couple of videos on YouTube

The hub and bearing will be arriving by Monday.

2turbos4rings

Considering the difficulty of this job from the perspective of someone that is not naturally handy and mechanical skill isn’t instinctual I would grade a bearing job like a 7 or 8 out of 10. I don’t recommend you do it yourself. It’s more difficult than a brake job and the amount of things that can go wrong are compounded since more components are removed and if you had difficulty removing the caliper then removing a 300lb-ft axle bolt is going to be a non-starter. A $90 impact wrench is going to do jack and you’re wasting your time. You need to spend 4 figures on the impact if you think you’re just gonna zip the axle bolt off

A but of tough love here my friend but just shell out the cash and have a pro do it. The car will be in and out in an hour or two. I haven’t done rears but I can probably do both fronts in less than an hour

Andrew12

I have done a few of these over the years. You really need to step up into the 3/4 inch range for the axle bolts. I would stay away from harbor freight and I wouldn't suggest impacts unless you want to do this for a living. Impacts are just a more expensive faster way. Not necessarily better. I have a set of Sunex 3/4 hex drives that I couple with a 3/4 craftsman drive. That always does the trick, no heat required. I also have 3/4 inch and 1 inch Ingersoll Rand impacts, but I hardly ever break them out. Not just for one bolt. You also lose the feel when using an impact. Hard to tell when something is going wrong.