abarmard

Good morning Folks,

I have a 2012 Audi A8L. I am very handy and usually do a lot of work on my other cars, (BMW, Honda, VW, Nissan, etc.).
I was wondering if I could Tackle the brake job (Changing the front Brake pads and rotors and rear brake pads) myself?
Do I need specific device/software to unlock the Brake pads? I could not find any thing on youtube about this.
I usually Buy my German car parts online, either from FCP-Euro or from ECS-tunning. They claim that Zimmerman Brake pads and rotors are great, or should I go with the original Audi parts?
I appreciate your help,

Thank you very much

mtnboydl

You need to decide if you actually need the rotors for this or just pads. Rotors are very expensive for our cars.

You will need vcds or equivalent to be able to disengage the parking brake.

Then it's just a matter of having the right bits to remove the spring for the pads and the either hex or triple square bit for the caliper mounting.

abarmard

Do you know the size of those bits?
Thank you

Gary Knox

I used Zimmerman rotors for many years on my Porsche 928's (street cars and track cars). Never had any problem with them in terms of warping, or excessive wear.

Gary

MP4.2+6.0

Fronts are relatively easy. No electronic tool required. Rears are essentially same as VW or Audi for last 30 plus years, other than you need electronic tool to open the parking brake. In most sizes, front rotors are a dealer only part. Can get for an ok price if you source from an on line discounted dealer like audiusaparts or some others. You will pay more at ECS by the way if dealer parts. Their typical dealer part is list or list less 3%. Discounted dealer is commonly list less 20%, sometimes more on specific parts. For mail order on rotors, always watch out on shipping. "Free"at a good price is obviously preferred.

Zimmerman may (??) have fronts in one size from some prior posts. If so, they are probably quietly sourcing them from the OE supplier since the design is patented and Audi and BMW have the distribution rights. Rear rotors are std. design so your choice of supplier.

The pads are fielder's choice for both ends--dealer or aftermarket. I go with either OE and the dust storm, or more commonly with EBC reds.

Before replacing any rotors, check wear and spec. Audi rule of thumb is two pad sets per rotor change, but measurements tell you real answer.

aeggroup

There are some aftermarket front and rear rotors available for A8 like this one : https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-2011-20...s/372762913482
I personally don't know anybody who bought them, so can't give any advise. But try to research and perhaps it will worth it. The price difference is about $1000.

MP4.2+6.0

If the picture in the ad is real, junk for the front of a D4 in my book. The other side of the "cheap" coin. I don't do performance subtracts on my Audis--especially on brakes.

More specifically, front design on D4's is quasi two piece, which reduces the boat anchor weight of big rotors. Trickle down of the design first found in Gen 1 R8. Also in prior gen V10 M5's and M6's for BMW's counterpart first use. Conventional cast iron rotors like in the ad picture probably add the better part of 10 pounds of weight up front in a 4.0T size for example--from having had very similar cast iron 385's on my D3 W12. 10 pounds per wheel is a significant performance subtract-- a bit of acceleration, a bit of mpg's, some handling feel and ride deterioration, and suspension longevity on a big bucks air ride set up. Some D4 A8's and all S8's are already saddled with heavy cast (not forged) factory wheels too. Meantime, $242 for even the S8 400mm size per front rotor for discounted dealer on line. Aftermarket performance two piece rotors go for probably 2.5x that for often meaningfully smaller sizes for rides you can even get them for (as in, typically not bigger Audis). Folks can pay $5K plus to try to take out that kind of incremental weight with forged higher end wheels.

Rears are conventional, but then also more widely available and less expensive from variety of players. As the diameter and width both drop in back, the weight difference relative to a two piece is not nearly as compelling like it is in front, and caliper weight is also much less in back.