Yet Another Suspension Air Compressor Issue. 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 009

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12-16-2018, 05:35 PM

rellascout

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Yet Another Suspension Air Compressor Issue. 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 009

So driving home to day my suspension light came on. Just the yellow light is on and will not shut off. I ran a Vag Com Scan and got this. It is the only code related to the Level controls. On the MMI screen Lift and Dynamic are grayed out. Automatic and Comfort still are illuminated but when you toggle between them nothing happens. To my eyes the car is in Comfort or possibly life mode. Definitely not Dynamic. Complete scan will be shown below, The compressor is not running. I cannot hear it when I start the car. The car has been sitting for over 2 hours and as not sank. It appears to my eyes to be level. From what I have read and searched on the forum, yes I used Google before posting, it sounds like I might have a blown fuse and relay. Hopefully the compressor is not blown. I assume that my struts are good because the car is not sinking. If there was a leak the car would lower itself over time correct? Is the fact I cannot hear the motor running at all a good or a bad sign? I have an appointment to get it looked at on Wed but the shop is roughly 50 miles from me. Is it save to drive the car or am I risking damaging the compressor if it is not already toast. I am wondering is the current fault 1 Fault Found: 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 009 - Open or Short to Ground, preventing the compressor from being activated and turned on making it safe to drive. Thanks in advance.

Address 34: Level Control Labels: 4E0-910-553.clb
Part No SW: 4E0 910 553 K HW: 4E0 907 553 H
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC H07 4590
Coding: 0015510
Shop #: WSC 02313 785 00200
VCID: 2B000E54FF05EC6F1B7-807E

1 Fault Found:
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
009 - Open or Short to Ground
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11101001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 96
Mileage: 199985 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2018.12.16

Chassis Type: 4E (4L0)
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 07 08 09 0E 0F 15 16 17 19 1E 34 36 37 38 42
46 47 4F 52 53 55 56 61 62 65 67 6C 72 76 77

00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
06-Seat Mem. Pass -- Status: OK 0000
07-Control Head -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
0E-Media Player 1 -- Status: OK 0000
0F-Digital Radio -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
1E-Media Player 2 -- Status: OK 0000
34-Level Control -- Status: Malfunction 0010
36-Seat Mem. Drvr -- Status: OK 0000
37-Navigation -- Status: OK 0000
38-Roof Electronics -- Status: Malfunction 0010
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
4F-Centr. Electr. II -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000
55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
61-Battery Regul. -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
65-Tire Pressure -- Status: OK 0000
67-Voice Control -- Status: OK 0000
6C-Back-up Cam. -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
76-Park Assist -- Status: OK 0000
77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000

Last edited by rellascout; 12-16-2018 at 06:27 PM.

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12-16-2018, 06:12 PM

Jack88

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Fuse or relay is a good start, and when posting a scan, feel free to delete the non-applicable modules to save everyone having to hunt through it.

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12-16-2018, 06:30 PM

rellascout

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack88

Fuse or relay is a good start, and when posting a scan, feel free to delete the non-applicable modules to save everyone having to hunt through it.

So if the struts are holding air is it safe to drive to a shop 50 miles away? I have the car in jack mode and measured the height of the wheel wells and will recheck tomorrow. If it hasn’t dropped am I ok to drive it? I don’t want to burn out the compressor if it’s not already toast but would prefer not to have to tow it. @Jack88

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12-16-2018, 07:02 PM

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

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Cheers,
Louis

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12-16-2018, 09:54 PM

Jack88

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rellascout

You can if it's holding air. but as Louis points out, if it bottoms out, the going gets a bit rough.

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12-17-2018, 06:24 AM

rellascout

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Thanks guys. The car is holding level. Zero sinking overnight. I think I will be safe to drive it. Will be back to update the post.

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12-18-2018, 04:43 PM

Mister Bally

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I drove mine 300 miles from a Western Chicago suburb to Detroit on pothole laden I-94 in the winter with the front right strut air bellow blown and bottomed out. Awful ride, warnings like crazy (Including headlight adjustment out of range) with no permanent damage. Had to get home.

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12-19-2018, 03:11 PM

rellascout

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Mister Bally

Mine turned on 100 miles into a 300 mile return trip home. I kept stopping to check the level.

Got it into a shop today and it was the fuse. I got it replaced and it is working fine. Hopefully that was it but will keep an eye on it. It would not surprise me if the relay goes and the fuse pops again. Pump was good to go and no codes showing it is being overworked or over heated at any point. So at least that is good at this point.

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12-19-2018, 05:32 PM

Mister Bally

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I'm surprised the fuse blew on its own. Usually it blows because one of the motor magnets becomes unglued from the motor case and causes a drag and excessive current draw.

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12-19-2018, 05:44 PM

#10

MP4.2+6.0

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rellascout

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mister Bally

I'm surprised the fuse blew on its own. Usually it blows because one of the motor magnets becomes unglued from the motor case and causes a drag and excessive current draw.

Suggestion: replace relay, quickly. I had exactly this scenario where compressor was not powered. Weird because two of settings stayed active in MMI display (just like OP reported here). I guess it had no leaks since it stayed in good form for a couple weeks. I had no codes though, so diagnosing was necessarily old school. I examined the original factory fuse and thought it looked okay visually. But with continuity testing I found later it was blown, and in fact had a hairline crack you could barely see without a magnifying glass or something. Bad design in terms of keeping diagnostics simple, but switched it out and moved on. HOWEVER, I had a new relay on the shelf (given other members' experiences--more below) and was suspicious about why fuse had blown. I pried relay case open and indeed found a lot of wear in the relay generally. My guess is it was starting to arc, which some minor burn marks would support. MY 2006, 140K miles or so. Replaced it and all fine since.

When relays go, they may essentially arc weld closed in which case it can be pretty problematic. Compressor wants to run, no way to get at fuse and relay without tools and a bunch of dash disassembly, etc. Has happened to members occasionally over the years, and sometimes a compressor fried IIRC.

Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 12-19-2018 at 07:34 PM.

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