Possibly Battery issue
#1
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Possibly Battery issue
Looking for advice I replaced my battery 2 years ago with a varta battery same as what was in before coded and fine for while then central locking stopped working having to unlock by key eventually battery too low to start I did a vcds scan getting faults for battery regulator and also check the mass values for same module this is pics of the scan and values
#2
AudiWorld Wiseguy
Battery is most likely on the way out given those codes. As it’s only 2yrs old you should be able to get it replaced under warranty from wherever you got it.
Another possibility is you have a current drain due to a faulty module somewhere not shutting down when it should. Tougher to diagnose, and only worth tracing if you have an obvious fault code (bad alarm siren module a common cause) or after you’ve replaced the battery and it goes dead again.
Another possibility is you have a current drain due to a faulty module somewhere not shutting down when it should. Tougher to diagnose, and only worth tracing if you have an obvious fault code (bad alarm siren module a common cause) or after you’ve replaced the battery and it goes dead again.
#3
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That’s the second battery I already replaced it under warranty 2 years ago should of said that in in the post is there any specific way to find the drain or a fault code that might help
#4
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It could be a drain (per dvs_Dave) or alternator not providing enough power (voltage regulator issues).
Check the voltage coming out of the alternator.
I think it should be at least 14V. I may be mistaken. If somebody out there can check this please correct me.
Check the voltage coming out of the alternator.
I think it should be at least 14V. I may be mistaken. If somebody out there can check this please correct me.
#5
AudiWorld Wiseguy
Do you have any aftermarket electronics installed? Are you leaving any phone chargers or anything like that plugged into any of the cigarette lighters?
Any other VCDS error codes for anything? If not, then to identify the current drain, follow standard automotive diagnostic techniques for that. Hook up an ammeter to the battery and start pulling fuses one at a time until you find the problem circuit.
Any other VCDS error codes for anything? If not, then to identify the current drain, follow standard automotive diagnostic techniques for that. Hook up an ammeter to the battery and start pulling fuses one at a time until you find the problem circuit.
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No aftermarket parts fitted and nothing plugged in I do have more fault codes will list them up when chance
I did put my multimeter on the battery while while running with fans on full blast was reading between 14.20v and 14.80v
I did put my multimeter on the battery while while running with fans on full blast was reading between 14.20v and 14.80v
#7
One 'cheat' that worked for me was to use a trickle charger when the car is parked. I got codes similar to that and the car would go into 'safe' mode eventually and thought it could be my battery regulator. I did change it some time ago and the battery at the same time (2016). Had to change the battery again under warranty later on (2019). However, since then I have been using a trickle charger all the time and have had no issues. The codes still show up some times, but no ill effects. I use a 4.5amp version and hooked it up to the negative post on the car and positive battery terminal. A small connector sticks out from the trim and I just leave it plugged in when I don't drive it for more than a day. It may be a relatively inexpensive way for you to work through diagnosing your issue without worrying about the condition of the battery all the time.
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#10
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One 'cheat' that worked for me was to use a trickle charger when the car is parked. I got codes similar to that and the car would go into 'safe' mode eventually and thought it could be my battery regulator. I did change it some time ago and the battery at the same time (2016). Had to change the battery again under warranty later on (2019). However, since then I have been using a trickle charger all the time and have had no issues. The codes still show up some times, but no ill effects. I use a Battery Tender 4.5amp version and hooked it up to the negative post on the car and positive battery terminal. A small connector sticks out from the trim and I just leave it plugged in when I don't drive it for more than a day. It may be a relatively inexpensive way for you to work through diagnosing your issue without worrying about the condition of the battery all the time.
that’s something I have looked in to but unfortunately not possible as I stay in a flat and car parked on street