aTOMic

Yes that's where I am.

Most VWs you just try to unscrew it until the head breaks off then using an air hammer and driving it through while tightening the nut on the other end it comes out. On the D3 (2004 at least) this is impossible due to the casting blocking the way. You can't even get a socket on there! Even if I could drive it out, I'd have to cut it off every 2cm, and it's a beeotch to get a sawzall or cutoff wheel up in there. I'd attach pics but the GD new photo attacher doesn't work on my Android (4.0.4) and I don't feel like f'ing with photobucket.

I think the last imbecile to work on this car didn't bother with any anti-seize/ grease, etc on the non-threaded part. The bolts have become one with the spindle.

Thanks, pray for me.

Mister Bally

What/where is this bolt located on?

aTOMic

#10. The 105mm long bolt which secures the UCA ball joints to the wheel bearing housing.

aTOMic

http http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/sho...modelYear=2004 ://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=5669905&ukey_assemb ly=752960&ukey_make=11&ukey_model=15631&ukey_drive line=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=2004[/img]

Oh for ****'s sake... "SUBMIT A VALID URL" I suspect because the ctrl+c copies spaces before... no that didnt fix it...

ANYway
#10. The 105mm long bolt which secures the UCA ball joints to the wheel bearing housing.

mishar

Check this tread.

Mister Bally

I had that one snap off myself. Both ends. The so-called treated bolt from the factory reacts with the aluminum bearing mount. Since everything is so solid in place, I just removed the whole bearing mount and the two control arms to press out the upper bushings. I also replaced the bearing. I even tried to drill out the bolt on a drill press with no luck. Once one of those ball joints goes, it means a new bearing mount for me as I will cut out the ball joints with a saws-all or hacksaw.

aTOMic

I'm sure that is easey peasy on most VWAG products; however (as I said) the casting precludes the use of even a socket let alone an air hammer on the nut end. Our cars are different than the bearing carrier shown in the video.
I tried heat (mapp gas, in fact) and rapid cooling. And just heat. Now I have the assembly removed and I think I might try a. 30-06.

aTOMic

And there goes another week and $300/side...

1Wasserwerks

I had to do this when rebuilding the front end on the wife's 04' passat. Rusted solid. Hammered, cutoff wheeled, drilled, hammer + punches. I'd hate to have to do this on aluminum, drills get a mind of their own...

aTOMic

As a former (metal) cutting tool expert, some words of wisdom:

1) Cobalt Drill bit
2) Very Low RPM - you should see a ribbon of metal coming out, not smoke...
3) Clamp the bearing carrier so you're drilling vertically so you can...
4) Lube - keep it full of trans fluid, cutting oil, or even motor oil
5) Pilot hole: first drill through it with a 1/8" (or thereabouts) bit. This way you're drilling only into bolt (steel) and not near the Aluminum. If you suddenly go from drilling 3mm a minute to feeling like you're drilling butter, you have gone off into the aluminum. Feel free to cry.

If I bought a newer Audi I'd remove these friggin bolts and coat them with grease (except the threads). You could do it without even taking a tire off.

Now back to the grind (literally).