Ms. KmK

Howdy guys. My fiance said you have helped her in the past and to ask my questions here.

I did some googling/forum snooping as well, but answers seem unrelated or incomplete.

I have a 2006 A8l. The local dealer is really great at helping me figure out problems, but I need some outside advice on a few things. Things I believe they won't help with for free, or are unsure of without charging me so they can dig deeper.

I was told that without a little more snooping around, the mechanic thinks my Comfort control module, 4E0910289D in the trunk next to the battery, is dying. The trunk does not open with the button on keyfob or the button in car on the door, my gas flap does not open with the button on the door, the rear sunshade does not move with the button on the dash, and finally the 'top up washer fluid' warning never goes away. Does that sound familiar to any problems anyone has come across? Maybe a fuse or bad wire?

I think the washer fluid warning is unrelated to the other problems, as it happened days before the others. The other three problems happened all at the same time. But I was told I need to order specifically the 4E0910289D comfort control module (the 4E0910289 or any similar part might not work, even though some sites say they are interchangeable). Also was told that I could not do the procedure myself as stuff needs to be coded into the CCM or it will not function.

Is this a mistake or true? Really any help on this CCM will be great. Info on if it is a DIY, if I can order a similar module, if the part might be fine and it is a totally separate problem. Anything would be appreciated.


The other question is a lot easier. I plan to replace all four rotors and wheel hub assemblies myself. So I was going to order the parts, but just got to thinking my Audi might not be the same as all the 90's cars rotors/hubs I have done in the past. I have a Vagcom, and have replaced rear pads in the past. But the dealer said rear hub/bearings are far harder than fronts. Is there a video somewhere on the prodedure for front and rear hub/bearing replacement? For comparison to previous cars I have done.

Also, should I replace just the bearing? The goal is to replace the bearings that are audibly grinding.

Every diagram I see seems to make it that doing both hub and bearing together would save time and money, but without a video or better diagram I am unsure if that is an easy method or not.

Again any info on the comfort control module, and hub or bearing replacement is appreciated. I thank you for your time reading.

PS. Part numbers I was given, if this will help.

4E0910289D : Comfort Control Module
4E0615301P : Front Rotor
4E0615601K : Rear Rotor
4E0498625B : Front Bearing
4E0598625 : Rear Bearing
No part number for hub. Or at least that I can find/that audi would give me.

Again thank you. Sorry for the messy, quick sentences. I have been out of it lately.

MP4.2+6.0

The only thing that really makes the rears harder than the fronts are opening the brakes in the first place to get at the brake pads as an early step. If you have done the rear pads before and have VAG-COM as you mention, you already know that part. From my A6 4.2 experience w/ a similar rear set up, I did have to lever an item of two, but it all went fine with just decent mechanics hand tools.

On the parts, first typically just the bearing is replaced. It is a self contained sealed unit. The 80's or 90's were often too, but if you haven't seen it on your prior ones, the bearing shell now just bolts to the steering knuckle in front and suspension components in back. No more pressing the old outer shell out or the new one in.

The hub still presses onto the bearing though. Having looked at this in an RS5 fitment recently, AudiUSAParts told me that while you could find a parts listing (at least on that model) showing the hub and bearing together, in practice they aren't available and each had to be purchased separately. Once you get to that conclusion, the Audi dealer prices now are meaningfully higher. You can find quality Euro *** or SKF type brands for most Audis, and I would just go that way and take $ out. On rotors on the other hand, the Audi prices are more competitive with good brand rotors from a known supplier. What I would not do though are just replace all four bearings summarily. You typically just do them by wheel as needed. It can be hard sometimes to track down the bad one(s). Front are usually easier where you turn the wheel and the one that makes noise on the outside of a corner is typically the bad one. In the rear its harder. One poster had his wife drive him around in the trunk to figure it out. Or, you can put the car on a lift and spin the wheels w/ the motor near idle and likely hear any issues pretty easily.

mishar

Check if you have trunk lights. They are also powered from the Comfort Module. Check all fuses in the right trunk (next to the battery). Four of them are for that module. If all that is OK than probably:

Comfort Control Module: eBay and new.

Regarding bearings, it is highly unlikely that all four of them are bad. Very similar grinding sound can come from the tires and likely from all of them. For rear bearing replacement you can find very good instructions with pictures here (AW).

Bearing comes with housing and it is connected with four bolts. It is not always easy to take it apart because of electro corrosion (aluminum steel contact). You have to use old hub. Press would be very handy here.

Replacing rotors is simple if you already know to replace rear pads and have VCDS (VAG COM). Just unbolt calipers with carriers (large bolts). Front rotors are 360 mm and rear ones 310 mm. Use the same link to buy OEM's.

Ms. KmK

Thank you for the replies Mishar and MP4.2+6.0.

I believe the Front right bearing is most at blame for the noise. The grinding is incredibly loud when turning left at higher speed. As for why I wanted to do them all, it was more so to get it out of the way. The car just hit 150K miles, and the bearings/hub have never been removed even once (as far as service records indicate)

Same goes for the rotors somewhat, replaced once at 50K and once at 100K. There is an audible rub/thump noise that gets faster as I increase speed, or another noise when braking that sounds similar to a warped rotor (maybe front left). With new wheels/tyres and old wheels/tyres nothing changes for noise. So I figure even though the rotors look great, I might as well do them all as I have always found rotors an easy job.


Thanks for the info on the fuses Mishar. The trunk light does come on. Also, the trunk will try to auto-close if I press the button inside the trunk lip, but it does not latch and the motor pushes it back up. My Fiance has the car with her, so I cannot check the fuses or do further research just yet. Thanks for the AudiUSAParts link also. I was going to order from them in the past and instead went with a site called RockAuto I believe.

I was wondering though.
Is there actually a difference between 4E0907289 and 4E0907289D?


I do appreciate the replies. I will check some more stuff out when my fiance arrives home. If any strange information comes up that I think is noteworthy (about the CCM) I will of course reply in this thread with it.

mishar

I would second MP on the suggestion to replace just one bearing at the time. You may never need to replace any other.

Rotors should be replaced when they are thinner than 31 mm fronts and 20 mm rears. If any of them is warped you would have extensive vibrations when braking. Sound may come from worn pads. If warning wires are not present on the front pads, or if somebody entered wrong rear pad thickness, warning light may not come on and pads could be warn.

Now I can see that your trunk motor works but your latch doesn't. There are few recent treads about that.

I believe those modules are interchangeable. But don't rush with it.

Mister Bally

Regarding your bearing questions, not a video, but this thread I started has a few helpful pictures:

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2837323

I firmly believe the Bentley manual is mandatory for any DIY'er with these cars.

The biggest pain for me was determining which side had the bad bearing. It was still a close call which side the noise was coming from but my calibrated ears were correct.

Mister Bally

Also note; fifteen months and 25,000 miles later, the opposite side rear bearing is still good. I would only replace one at a time.