ltooz_a6_a8_q7

Now, the Rload for DRL is ranged from 25-35ohms dependent upon the LEDS. Anyhow, email me your shipping information. If it's done today, I'll send it out today.

Cheers,

Louis

wildwilly1

did you get my emkail with address

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

I'll send extra 2 50ohm resistors, just in case your DRL bulbs power is different from mine. If the warning lights are on, just put these 2 parallel with the 30ohm//PTC. They should work fine with tons of little SMD LEDS on your DRL 1156 bulbs. I rather to be safe than yours are not working.



Tested
Cold

Hot


Cheers,

Louis

wildwilly1

send it to Anthony combs 214 holt ave mt sterling ky 40353

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus">CAN bus</a> vs <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rs232">RS232</a>

CAN bus operates at 3.3V and RS232 at 7-12V, Both are serial port communication, CAN bus high speed and RS232-RS422 lower speed.

This is the reason why older cars OBDII interfaces are different from newer cars using CAN bus because if you use RS232 interface, you will blow up the CAN bus with 12V+. Many manufacturers would have over voltage protection, but some don't.

Now, all cars light bulbs are at 12V lines, either on or off, where are the can bus communication lines? I can't figure this out, may be their CAN bus operates at 12V, but then, they has to be RS232. Does the CPU actually communicate to the light bulb lines?Hmmm, these China manufacturers do have great engineers.

Cheers,

Louis

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

When you get the package, let me know, I'll walk you through the process. Try it outside with the bulbs like my pictures. I don't have any splicers. Try to get some when everything is working.

Cheers,

Louis

wildwilly1

thank you vry much I will let you know when I get it have a good day

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

Alright, it's done. NO tracking, the cheapest way USPS will do. $3.20. including bubble bag. One Christmas present is done for this year.

Procedure in case I don't answer due to winter vacation when you received the package.

Testing:
1. Take out the bulbs sockets, put back the original ones that are not testing because the LED bulbs that don't have ptc will throw warning light, although you can see which one is showing on the car icon.
2. Each of the PTC circuit has 2 stripped terminals already with solder on them, they're hard like pins, just stick them in the back of the test sockets, although they're red and black, but you can put them either way, the color is just for marking, (yellow & purple wires in the picture), turn on the lights with ignition on to see if the warning light is gone, wait for 30 seconds to 1 minute, if the warning light is off, the circuit is good to use for that socket. MAKE SURE THE Bigger Resistor 30ohm Marked DRL in the back is for the DRL 1156 socket, the small 50ohms are for the parking light. Move on the next, when all work, then start splicing into the socket wires. You only need 1 Ground (brown color wire) for both bulbs DRL and Parking each side. So each side 3 wires only (DRL+, Parking+, and brown ground wire(any)).

Here are how I tested mine, look at the DRL bulb 1156, it wasn't a good one.



Cheers and Merry Christmas,

Louis

wildwilly1

got your pkg Louis I will try to start on them this afternoon.after I do the test you explained and if everything works right that's when I will do the actual installation. so on each side I will have 3 wires. 2 positive 1 negative running to a metal box from lowes. that is where I hook up the parts you sent me correct. everything will be housed in the metal box correct.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

Yes, drill the holes so you can screw the resistors on the plate, organize it so it fit well on the plate, then mount it on the box. I open the tap on the top, it's not good, open on the side is better, use a rubber grommet if you have one.


It was raining hard a few days ago and the box was covered very well.
Please post back with pictures of the test bulbs on to see how bright yours are.

Cheers,

Louis