Crisis3

Anyone know what i can expect to pay to machin front rotors and install EBC red stuff pads? Also my brake wear light just came on, any idea how much pad is left when this happens?

aTOMic

According to the official factory disc, you have 3000 miles after the warning comes on. I was surprised to see such a generous figure since they would want to err on the "worst-case" scenario; i.e., if the car was used for fully-loaded, fast stopping, "stop-and-go" city driving.

Literally (for once) YMMV.

-Tom

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

<a href="https://www.audiworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2849517">how I did mine front brakes</a>

Cheers,

Louis

Crisis3

Still looking for cost, It won't be a DIY project for me.

tenspeed

Prices vary depending on where you live and who does the work. Indy shops usually are less expensive than dealers. Call around and they should be able to give you a rough estimate over the phone.

Why are you turning down the front rotors? I usually don't. If they are grooved I replace them. If they are flat and thick enough, I just replace the pads.

mishar

Rotors should be replaced not machined. Minimum thickness is 31 mm. OEM are the best choice and they are not too expensive here. For any properly equiped shop it is 1 hour job max. It can be done in 15 minutes, by the way.

bmwm750

You don't machine rotors, you replace them if they are worn. This is a one hour job at any shop, so just call around.

Crisis3

This will be my first brake job with the Audi. On my past cars the crack staff at that certain golden touch brake shop always told me I needed new rotors, but when I complained of the price they recommended machining as an option. Been doing that for years. I take it I've been taken?

kgd_007

Front brakes and rotors should be in the $450 range for parts online. That is OEM rotors and either Red Stuff or OEM pads, they are about the same price. It is really pretty easy to do your self. I measure the rotor thickness and just change the pads if the rotors are still above the minimum.

My front brakes probably had close to a third of the total thickness left when the light came on.

bmwm750

I wouldn't say "taken," per se, but machining is generally not considered "acceptable" within the higher echelons of the car world. It is a common practice on "normal" cars, however is not an accepted practice on any German cars.

In proper practice, rotors are either good to go another round or they're not. There is a min thickness spec of the rotor. Generally speaking, if you run your finger over the edge of the rotor and can feel a sizable "lip," it's time for new rotors. On average, on a daily driven car, you should get two sets of pads to one set of rotors.

Machining will get rid of the lip, and does have the side benefit of getting you down to virgin metal, but it does this by taking away material.