When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
$6500 to replace the engine is a fair price. Let look at it:
I think the book rate is 40 hours to R&R the engine.
At $100 per hour, that comes to $4000. The rest of the parts plus the engine would be the remainder. An engine from Audi would come with a 1 year warranty. Plus the labor would be warrantied as well. All in all, it is a fair price.
I recently talked to BMW mechanic that said that he changed an engine in one of their sport models. Total cost if the customer had to pay for it? $46,000 The vehicle was under warranty so the cost to the owner was $0.00
If you do not have good air tools, then it might take 50 hours. Don't forget that the whole front end has to come off to pull the engine.
Last edited by richard-tx; 10-22-2017 at 08:45 AM.
$6500 to replace the engine is a fair price. Let look at it:
I think the book rate is 40 hours to R&R the engine.
At $100 per hour, that comes to $4000. The rest of the parts plus the engine would be the remainder. An engine from Audi would come with a 1 year warranty. Plus the labor would be warrantied as well. All in all, it is a fair price.
I recently talked to BMW mechanic that said that he changed an engine in one of their sport models. Total cost if the customer had to pay for it? $46,000 The vehicle was under warranty so the cost to the owner was $0.00
If you do not have good air tools, then it might take 50 hours. Don't forget that the whole front end has to come off to pull the engine.
Hello Richard,
Orlando did not say $6500 for an engine from Audi installed, he said "6500 to pull the engine and repair any pistons or valve damage" that's it, I guess it' the same price if it' 1 piston, or 8, or if its 1 valve or 40....... That's why it is hard for me to continue on with him, but I will try, he says in his other thread that I am "shooting the messenger", well the messenger did not deliver any detailed information at all, so Orlando, how about posting the dealers compression reading report for each of the 8 cylinders, or the scan report from the dealer, or the detailed information from the dealer on how they determined that the engine timing is off, or did they just look into their crystal ball and hand you a load of crap, if you walked out without any of this information, I hope you did not pay a dime, and do tell us, did you pay, or were you looking for a free estimate, which is fine if that is the case, but then you end up with the vague blanket cost analysis, or to me that is how your information came across, no detail whatsoever....
Head replacement, engine swap failed cam tensioner
After months of sitting I decided to take a crack at my Audi a8 d3 2006. I had alot of previous write ups on this issue. I had a engine that 1 day decided to crank but no start. Being a diesel mechanic and new to Audi troubleshooting it took a while to diagnose. I started with the fuel pumps, then the fuel filter, spark plugs, crank sensor, cam sensor, and a complete timing belt service. These are things that needs to be updated anyway with a vehicle that has 170k on her. Recently I took the valve covers off and realized the culprit. The cam chain tensioner was stuck in a depressed position and the shoe on the top had completely broken off. Now my job is to tackle the tensioner. If there is signs of valve damage then I will need to open it and work in new pistons and valves, I think it may be easier and cheaper to just buy the whole bank for the drivers side and remove the head. Of course I have all the Audi tools for timing. Never yanked any heads before, any tips. I should only be removing the head if there is valve damage.
Hello Richard,
Orlando did not say $6500 for an engine from Audi installed, he said "6500 to pull the engine and repair any pistons or valve damage" that's it, I guess it' the same price if it' 1 piston, or 8, or if its 1 valve or 40....... That's why it is hard for me to continue on with him, but I will try, he says in his other thread that I am "shooting the messenger", well the messenger did not deliver any detailed information at all, so Orlando, how about posting the dealers compression reading report for each of the 8 cylinders, or the scan report from the dealer, or the detailed information from the dealer on how they determined that the engine timing is off, or did they just look into their crystal ball and hand you a load of crap, if you walked out without any of this information, I hope you did not pay a dime, and do tell us, did you pay, or were you looking for a free estimate, which is fine if that is the case, but then you end up with the vague blanket cost analysis, or to me that is how your information came across, no detail whatsoever....
Without the dealer opening the engine they could not tell. Basically if I gave them the 🍞 they would open her up and give me a actual cost analysis. The 6k was ballpark they quoted. The service report said low compression that was possibly caused by timing. I did pay for 1 hr of diagnostic. But at the end of the day they were right. Everyone asked me to do all these expensive tests that the commoner doesnt possess. When I could've just opened the valve cover and noticed the obliteration. The broken shoes caused it to jump time which hopefully didn't crush my valves.
Orlando,
Now I am confused at your "3 months" comment, how could you not personally see your car in the last 3 months when you did the fuel filter in early August, then on August 7th I posted all the transmission pictures to show you the location of the CPS, then on August 15th you stated that you did the CPS, and then on August 19th you towed it to a muffler shop and posted asking for help, on that same day I posted and asked for some information from you as to certain items, you never responded and ignored my questions for 18 days until September 6th, only then to quote my post and not answer even one of my questions, also, you state "the only thing that has been repeatedly requested", it was not the only thing, as in one singular item, it was the many as you went on to list, so please tell us why you ignored the request for information when you had the car in your possession, myself and others asked questions and made suggestions while you were working on the CPS, correct, NOW to your vehicle, with all the money you spent in parts so far, why would you not buy a compression tester, it is only $30 as shown in the link below, you say you may have to rent one, also you can get an inexpensive borescope for $100 to look at your pistons and valves, but do answer this please, when you pulled the plugs, were they soaked in gas as they should have been from all the cranking you did without it firing over, meaning the engine should have been flooded..... If your fuel pump and filter job was done correctly and the complete fuel system was in 100% working order, you would have cylinders flooded with fuel, and soaked spark plugs if you either had no spark, or the timing is off,.
What is "PCM", do you mean the ECU or ECM ?
I apologize I had alot of forums I subscribed to for help and I may have been so flustered I had a hard time understanding everybodies requests. Yes the engine was initaly flooded with gas on the spark plugs. I let them dry outside the engine for like 2 months. I have other vehicles so this one has cob webs on her now. New battery and more. I got the vehicle for 5800 and put about 1200 worth of parts in it. During those 3 months it was being towed from lot to lot looking for an estimate. 4 lots in all. I have a borescope camera and didn't notice any marks on the top of the pistons yet. Not to say it's not there but I haven't observed anything that's looks like a impact mark. Pcm ecu ecm idk the exact difference but whatever one turns on the fuel pump when the key is turned but I don't think that's a problem either.
FWIW, if the issue is simply the cam timing chain and tensioner, the basic job is pretty straight forward. Overview is:
1. You will again remove the timing belt.
2. Open valve cover on affected side.
3. Unbolt both cams at the bearing areas. Keep those bearing caps labelled for position--they are through bored, are position specific (some are obvious) and there are no true bearing shells. Unbolt the tensioner at same time.
4. Remove the whole cam assembly, including chain, tensioner and all. The lifters, finger followers and all stay behind on the head assembly without anything special.
Shop manual tells you how to line up the cams as far as chain position, especially if you think yours jumped. Not sure where tensioners are sourced besides dealer, but you can buy the chain in parts channels from my own experience.
If you pull the head, also know that the bolts are single use stretch bolts. Those can be sourced in parts channels too if you dig, for a lot less than dealer.
SORRY if i where in your position i would just part the car out. Make some money on it and go buy a replacement A8 with Less miles. This car seems like a money pit and with the year and millage i dont see it being worth putting money in to it. A low millage 80k-100k 2006 are going for 5k - 9k
I appreciate all the replies. I don't mind doing the repairs to this 180k vehicle because it is otherwise a sound vehicle. Every function works as it should and is in aesthetically immaculate condition. Even a whole used head is only 200-700 dollars. I'm just prepared for the worst but I'm hoping the tensioner repairs it. I paid 120 for both sides and I bought 2 gasket kits. Big job I know it. But it's rewarding. I really think I can get another 200k out of it. If the suspension holds up. Newish struts only 200-400 a piece. If I get another a8 I'm only inheriting another man's problem. At least I know what's up with this one.
Last edited by Orlando Smith; 05-07-2018 at 02:09 PM.
Reason: Format
Like my title says, it's great to hear you found the issue. I am also based in Virginia and can say that i go to a great indy called PDAUTOWERKS. I live in NOVA and he is in Winchester but i tell you he's worth every mile travelled. Guy has A LOT OF INTEGRITY. For me, integrity from a mechanic is worth the money and travel. The guy really treats your car like his own prize car.
10-22-2017, 08:42 AM
