aTOMic

I had a whole folder of stuff for front end rebuild on my laptop, which decided to go inop. My search on here is dreadful (android w/dock).
Specifically, Bentley says that whole top plate and the air shock must be removed, but IIRC most who did it on here didn't do that...
Going out to do it now, nervous. I did my B5 Passat a while ago, and I understand there are some similarities (to say the least). Same control arm p/n on Passat as A8L. Hard to believe.
Doing axles, brakes TREs the whole shebang.

Thanks an especially large amount,
Tom

MP4.2+6.0

Yes, seriously. Have not done the A8 personally (yet). But on my 2000 A6 4.2 with the same basic aluminum arm set up, I got stuck on two different bolts that the factory idiotically put in the reverse of what would make it easy. After the usual prying and other standard attempts, I demo sawed them. One was an inner upper arm, and the other was the lower rear IIRC. The bolts are hardened, so it burned up a blade or two, but out they came. I reversed the bolts to get them in, though one still needed some prying to get in.

This assumes you have replacement bolts of course. Plus of course, any time you think about demo saw approach to part removal, make sure the reinstall path is pretty clear or it's a waste of effort.

03_AR_CO

In my opinion, if you are doing the TRE's, control arms, and axels you might as well drop the air struts to do the upper control arms, they are far from difficult to remove. If you remove the sway bar links first, it allows the suspension to drop so there is no compressing or struggling with the air strut. Again it is just my opinion.

aTOMic

Thanks both of you for your instant responses. I bought a 5-pack of sawzall "torch" blades but maybe dropping the air strut (as Bentley recommends) would be easier. Just makes me nervous d/c-ing the brittle air connections.

aTOMic

Help! I want to do one side at a time but I'm afraid if I d/c the air spring the other side will go from lift to lowrider! Anyone?

I preferred to do both at one time, but how does one jack the car up AND find a spot for a jackstand? Even if the plastic rectangle the techs (incorrectly) put the lift points on will support the car, they are too close to get a stand under there while the jack has the car lifted?

I simply must have a lift installed in my garage. With the $$$ I save just on this job I can do it, too. Of course the 8'ceilings might limit its utility...

PS Please cut me some slack on the pdfs - trying to show just the picture...

1Wasserwerks

I am thinking that if you set the car to "jack mode" your suspension won't get all mushy.
I did the complete kit on my wife's b5.5 passat. Only real issue was the long pinch bolt between the upper control arm joints. Ended up drilling the bolt, etc...we all know that drill didn't go in straight. Replaced lower components first then replaced upper control arms and struts. One tie rod end came out fine the other took some effort. Huge improvement.

aTOMic

Yeah that one can be a bee otch. The solution is an air hammer but you must use it with an anvil (think sledge hammer head) - something heavy to brace against or else the force of the air hammer is dissipated through the bushings. I was at the end of my rope on my B5's) pinch bolt, too!



I hate when I get all sweaty for nothin. What a waste of a day. Company coming expecting me to entertain them (deservedly so) and all I can do is worry about this shiste. And cram into a rental car, on top of all of that! (first world problems, etc....
/rant off

Mister Bally

Like MP 4.2+6.0 says, use a sawzall. I did when replacing my upper control arm bushings. See an earlier posting of mine.

aTOMic

Thank you for your replies. You guys are nuts

I think it'd be easier to take out the three bolts from the top and remove the whole assembly than to spend fifteen minutes per side with my head in the fenderwell trying to cut hardened bolts while being careful not to slip up and cut/scratch anything important.

The question remains does opening the air line to one side deflate the other side? My understanding of the system's config says yes but there have been enough first-hand reports on here about one corner deflating...

Also Jackstands and a jack - how?
Is that plastic rectangular recess where the stock jack goes? That might be an option, Haven't tried the stock "Witwenmacher*" jack yet, that'd leave more room! (for jackstand).



*widowmaker

Panelhead

The Nigerian/ Jamaican wrenchers backed the nine year old nuts off my control arms without saws, torches, or nitro. Said one hour, plus 30 minutes pressing the four bushings. An hour and a half labor.
Only one bushing was ripped out. On the passenger side. The other three were cracked, but had more miles. The ASB links were deteriorated in the front. The rears like new.
The mechanic showed it to me before replacing. But I did not crawl into the fender well to look. Old eyes.
The shocks are totally independent. But removing the shock seems be the hard way to do this.
Nashville does maybe does not have good alignment shops. I used to use one down by Farmers Market, downtown. There was another over by the new Convention Center. But all that was 40 years ago.
A good front shop will do the bushings, links, and "axles" for maybe 2 1/2 hours labor. BTW, the "axles" are the spindles?
It takes me 2 1/2 hours to find my needed tools, pull on and off the Rhino ramps, and clean up the mess. Any repairs are on top of that. The bushings, rotors, pads, links would have been two weeks for me. They did it in four hours.
They gigged me on the trannie flush and filter, 4 hours. I think I could have done it in four hours.