A8 Intake Actuator Arms
05-06-2012, 05:29 AM
#14
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I received the parts a few days ago. Took all of 10 minutes if that to install. From what I can tell in driving the car yesterday, low end torque is back and the power is smooth. I suppose when one breaks it is not a huge "what the hell happened" affect, however it clearly affects performance and obviously fuel economy.
The product from Gruven is top quality, good stuff.
The product from Gruven is top quality, good stuff.
05-18-2012, 07:13 AM
#15
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OK, so I installed the Gruven actuators the other day, piece of cake and no issues doing so.
Now here is the current issue...On the lower valve, the bracket keep slipping off the snap connector on the actual plunger. I snapped it back on, but it continues to slip, so one is working properly, but the other is functioning as though the arm is still broken. Any ideas on how to make the bracket stick to the valve? I'm thinking of trying to epoxy it, but I suspect that it won't bond well to the metal bracket and what appears to be plastic on the valve clip. Has anyone ever had this happen and if so, were you able to apply a fix?
Now here is the current issue...On the lower valve, the bracket keep slipping off the snap connector on the actual plunger. I snapped it back on, but it continues to slip, so one is working properly, but the other is functioning as though the arm is still broken. Any ideas on how to make the bracket stick to the valve? I'm thinking of trying to epoxy it, but I suspect that it won't bond well to the metal bracket and what appears to be plastic on the valve clip. Has anyone ever had this happen and if so, were you able to apply a fix?
05-18-2012, 07:39 AM
#16
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You can't glue it. It has to rotate there.
First check that loose boll end for a damage. Compare it to the good one. If it is not damaged than that new actuator is wrong. If it is damaged (smaller diameter) you can use a rubber band and cross it around to hold it in place. Not the shiny one but if the band is good it will last and nobody can see it.
First check that loose boll end for a damage. Compare it to the good one. If it is not damaged than that new actuator is wrong. If it is damaged (smaller diameter) you can use a rubber band and cross it around to hold it in place. Not the shiny one but if the band is good it will last and nobody can see it.
05-18-2012, 10:46 AM
#17
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Mishar - Thanks for the quick response. I'm not explaining myself clearly, so sorry for that.
What is now slipping is the other end of the bracket (not the end with the ball joint). The arm works great, the issue is the other end of the bracket, which seems to "snap" onto the rigid part sticking through the rubber boot. It looks to me like the male end of the fitting (which goes through the bracket) is worn a bit and thus not seating securely in the bracket. It is causing it to snap off the fitting when the valve tries to open during acceleration and thus the valve remains closed..
Does that explain it more clearly, if not, I can snap a picture later.
What is now slipping is the other end of the bracket (not the end with the ball joint). The arm works great, the issue is the other end of the bracket, which seems to "snap" onto the rigid part sticking through the rubber boot. It looks to me like the male end of the fitting (which goes through the bracket) is worn a bit and thus not seating securely in the bracket. It is causing it to snap off the fitting when the valve tries to open during acceleration and thus the valve remains closed..
Does that explain it more clearly, if not, I can snap a picture later.
05-18-2012, 02:34 PM
#18
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Well, at first it sounds very clear, but looking at the pictures above I can't really get what's wrong. The other end of that small lever is fixed with the nut. Are you saying that it rotates freely on the shaft?
Main problem is that the thing has to be opened at low RPM in order to increase low end power (torque) and it gets closed somewhere around 4300 RPM to bust high end power (torque).
Main problem is that the thing has to be opened at low RPM in order to increase low end power (torque) and it gets closed somewhere around 4300 RPM to bust high end power (torque).
05-18-2012, 04:01 PM
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Well, at first it sounds very clear, but looking at the pictures above I can't really get what's wrong. The other end of that small lever is fixed with the nut. Are you saying that it rotates freely on the shaft?
Main problem is that the thing has to be opened at low RPM in order to increase low end power (torque) and it gets closed somewhere around 4300 RPM to bust high end power (torque).
Main problem is that the thing has to be opened at low RPM in order to increase low end power (torque) and it gets closed somewhere around 4300 RPM to bust high end power (torque).
05-19-2012, 05:00 AM
#20
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Here's a couple of pics with my phone. The other end in my car is not secured with a bolt, it is secured with a clip that does not stay "clipped" to the bracket. Thanks for any ideas guys.