90SQ

Got my injectors back from clean up yesterday and the guys there had never seen so mutch gunk come out of a set in all there years so i was pretty enthusiastic on the results. Instaled them and still.....SAME F$%&? thing

Thaught about it all night but at least i finnaly solved it, car runs stronger than ever.

Everything up was good, everything checked out in perfect working condition so the only thing left to make it missfire when i pushed it a bit to hard was a banana in the exhaust pipe .


Take a look, i just cant see what the hell happened. Hope this will have helped !

darrelljr00

i saw the fuel rail.. but couldnt figure out how to pull the injectors out. can you describe it?

ALso how many cylinders are you misfiring?

any vacuum leaks?

90SQ

No vacuum leaks, and i had cylinder 1-2 and 3 that were coding + multiple misfiiring.

The fuel ramp is bolted at 4 points on the intake, once unbolted and vacuum lines and wiiring is out of the way just pry it with a large screw driver beetwin the ramp and the intake gently and evenly(straight up, not sidways) not to damage an injector and they should come right out with the ramp.

darrelljr00

so you have the same kind of shaking that i have?

It starts at about 40 to 45 mpg entire car shaking.. even though I have a mutli cylinder misfire.. the car shaking doesnt feel like a misfire..

when and how does your shaking come about?

90SQ

Same kind of shaking yes, the hole car shaked and is was because of a misfire.

I had multiple misfires(check engine flashing and all) but mostly coded # 1-2 and 3 witch i beleive was what made the car shak. As soon as i pushed it a bit to hard it would start and did not go away until i shut it off and started it up again.

After checking everything to be sure my fire and gas systems were in good order i tried switching coils from one bank to the other and still coded 1-2-3. So i went for a drive and jaked it up to see what temp my cats were and they were on fire. I'm pretty sure if it would of been night they would have been red.

Opened them up, emptyed them and now the car is back to normal.

If you can get your hands on a laser temp gauge to see your pipes temp before and after cats you should get a BIG diff. in temp if your cats are in trouble.

90SQ

Any updates, find anything???

darrelljr00

well.. I was able to get the car up in the air and when acclerating up to around 40 to 50 mph, the shaking is still there.. Also noticed that when my friend was pressing the gas pedal, the front right tire spins but has a mind of its own.. sometimes it would spin at the same speed as other tires. but other times it would slow down and sometimes it would come to a complete stop while at about 40 mph, as if someone was pressing the brake.

with the car in the air the 3 other tires spin fine.

so im now wondering if its the cv axle on the passenger side. binding up at 40 to 50 mph and causing that be dragged and thats the shaking?


Not sure what to think..

win72010

Hope everyone had Happy holiday. So We have several issues...not the most pure topic/thread.
We spend money on our cars maintainence/diagnostics/repairs and my favorite are upgrades. So for darrelljr00 your filter and fluid change was solid maintenance and diagnostic advice money well spent. Hope u agree. Now we have eliminated some possible issues and likely prevented more. From ur video, ur shake started at 40-45 mph and rpms 1200-1500. That is when u will both go into 5th and lockup of tourque converter and hence my advice regarding tranmission/driveline diagnaostic direction. Next step is still in driveline. The MOST likely issue and ur vibration root cause.... the driveshaft center bearing has failed. Blauparts has tech advice on running down this issue. Also I was in Detroit last week helping a friend with his 98 A8 with same vibration. We confirmed that center driveshaft bearing was his root problem. The rubber around the bearing was waisted. Now that ur vibration issue is likely diagnosed. Repair and more info on that issue should be set up as seperate topic/thread. I agree that the engine misfire and codes are secondary to ur main vibration issue...based largely by info from watching ur video.

... Back to the title and name of our thread... ur are showing code for long term trim. That is a vacume leak and will cause multi cyl misfires. Under the same plastic by the washer fluid fill is a evap purge valve. Make sure electrical connnections are kleen. Trace hoses to the throttle body area for leak and/or poor seal at any vaccuum connection. That is the NEW place and direction to start with engine codes u have posted. Also because the fuel trim is pointing to bank 2. Look at every hose and conection that is under vaccuum for Drivers side extra careful. Could even be fuel injector o rings leaking (last thing I would guess/check). When chasing down vaccuum leaks... sometimes it will just make sence to pay a shop to smoke your car with UV reactive smoke and go from there. good luck

pocketchange

Just for the fun of it, check for low voltage.

Large percentage of the problem can be ground related (check them too).
Good cleaning works wonders.

Also, with the age of these D2 electronics a trip to the dyno and a scope may locate your problem if nothing else.

JoePGT5S

I think you may have a binding break caliper (front right, from your post details) that could be causing the shaking. Seeing your video, it reminded me of an old BMW I drove that had a similar shake and it turned out to be a binding brake caliper - took a while to diagnose since the caliper would only start to bind at a certain speed.

How freely does each wheel spin when up on axle stands?

Joe