Control Arms - Ocap or Meyle or OEM?
#21
AudiWorld Member
This looks like an opportunity for someone to develop an aftermarket for suspension hardware that is designed with quality (specifically balljoints.)
Fact is, I'm surprised someone hasn't already stepped up to the plate and given this a try. pc
Fact is, I'm surprised someone hasn't already stepped up to the plate and given this a try. pc
#22
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
another chassis with 30k miles on it. The geometry stays firm. I would get dust boots and pack
them with grease to protect them.
http://store.034motorsport.com/rebui...trol-arms.html
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...t-density-line
#23
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"Traditional" Meyle parts aren't really going around for these cars anymore - not as I can tell. Meyle HD parts come with 4 years warranty. No contractor or manufacturer looking to stay in business, gives a warranty too near their own qualified estimate of product life. If your part failed within 3 years, its a warranty issue (unless due to abnormal wear caused by secondary parts or driving style/conditions). Only thing I'd say is worth noting, is to compare the distance from center balljoint to threaded end on their TREs. I seem to remember the Meyle HD TREs are 2 turns/3mm off, from the stock ones.
"Everything" is made in Asia/China or Easter Europe these days. That includes the top notch stuff. It really doesn't matter where something is made, but how its made. If the manufacturing plant doesn't deliver within the tolerances and quality specs agreed upon, they're out of work. China isn't the the fast growing giant of our time without reason. Sure you can still get your real-cheap-fix on, but if you pay ~$150 for a Control arm kit, you're barely paying for the raw materials.
Febi Bilstein is good (only direct experience with their bushings), Meyle HD is good. OE/Lemförder is good. TRW is good. Whatever set you choose - make sure to get the bushings tightened at ride height, get allignment, and changing a complete set (at least complete "corner") is likely to last longer than a partial exchange. Well worn parts and new, stiffer parts in this setup don't play well together - they will put uneven loads on each other, and likely cause excessive wear and premature failure for both parties.
My 2c - YMMV.
"Everything" is made in Asia/China or Easter Europe these days. That includes the top notch stuff. It really doesn't matter where something is made, but how its made. If the manufacturing plant doesn't deliver within the tolerances and quality specs agreed upon, they're out of work. China isn't the the fast growing giant of our time without reason. Sure you can still get your real-cheap-fix on, but if you pay ~$150 for a Control arm kit, you're barely paying for the raw materials.
Febi Bilstein is good (only direct experience with their bushings), Meyle HD is good. OE/Lemförder is good. TRW is good. Whatever set you choose - make sure to get the bushings tightened at ride height, get allignment, and changing a complete set (at least complete "corner") is likely to last longer than a partial exchange. Well worn parts and new, stiffer parts in this setup don't play well together - they will put uneven loads on each other, and likely cause excessive wear and premature failure for both parties.
My 2c - YMMV.
#24
AudiWorld Senior Member
Interesting that this thread was resurrected. I just received my new front upper forward and rear control arms. I wanted to buy Lemforder but went with Beck/Arnley, as Beck/Arnley was over $200 cheaper.
They're being installed July 13th along with an oil change. I'll see over time if the non-Lemforder control arms was a wise or poor decision.
They're being installed July 13th along with an oil change. I'll see over time if the non-Lemforder control arms was a wise or poor decision.
#25
Since this topic is up, FCPEuro.com sells OE and aftermarket control arms, I don't see a kit with everything on their site, but they do have a lifetime warranty. Being a home mechanic and dealing with FCP on warranty and returns stuff in the past, I can recommend them. Good stuff.
#26
Yeah this thread should be in some wiki somewhere! All my front control arms need replacing - not gonna happen ever on my current D2. The uppers being a little noisy I can live with but I had to replace the lower ball joint and mad a ton of difference. And if you cheap out and replace one then that will quieten down one problem but you'll now hear the others! (I'm talking about a really worn ball joint here and yes one should not be driving with such an issue.)
Also if only I could get the ***** to fix the read upper but messing with the coil spring has put the brakes on that and I'm too cheap to pay the $200 labor to get it fixed but have the little $10 bushing in the car waiting to be deployed. I may try a crazy fix by spraying some goop in the worn upper (3m window weld) to fix it.
Also if only I could get the ***** to fix the read upper but messing with the coil spring has put the brakes on that and I'm too cheap to pay the $200 labor to get it fixed but have the little $10 bushing in the car waiting to be deployed. I may try a crazy fix by spraying some goop in the worn upper (3m window weld) to fix it.
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