Ok so here's what I did ........
08-31-2008, 07:06 AM
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Ok so here's what I did ........
<center><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s108/JDeL13365/005-1.jpg"></center><p>I ran the car for 10 minutes or so with no leakage on either end of the splice. It's about 20 miles to the shop, which won;t get to it till tues. Is it OK for like running to the grocery store (.5 miles) and laundry mat etc or shouldn't I. There is about a 1/4 inch of the original fuel line in each end of the splice, hence the two clamps. Now the ORIGINAL problem was some leakage from the large nut feeding directly into the filter itself. See that copper looking area exposed? That's where it now leaks from. Can I loosen the clamps for the splice and tighten that down more? Before the fuel line broke I tried that and it only seemed to worsen the leak.... should I just leave well enough alone and get her to the shop? I'm a little dissapointed in myself for fu#@ing this up in the first place, it seemed so simple. At least it;s not spraying fuel all over the engine anymore. Thanks for your help guys you really saved me on this one. -J
08-31-2008, 07:38 AM
#2
Nice job on that repair.
Here's hint for working on stuff like this that is "double nutted."
You use one wrench to hold the component (or the nut that is "fixed" to something) and a second wrench to loosen or tighten the nut or fitting that is designed to be moved.
BUT.....to do this, you clock the wrenches so they are working against each other. In other words, to loosen that big nut fitting that's screwed into the fuel filter, you would put a wrench on the fuel filter's molded in nut, (let's say for example you place this wrench at 6 o'clock) and then you put a second wrench on the movable fitting, (this wrench would be positioned at 7 o'clock). Then you force the wrenches against each other, making an effort to hold the fuel filter stationary and shove the second wrench against it.
Regarding your question about the leak coming from that copper area: That is a copper crush washer. Slide your repair hose off the stub of the old fuel line at your fuel filter fitting. Clock 2 wrenches as mentioned above and completely remove that long nut from the fuel filter. Remove the copper crush washer and take it over to an auto parts store (NAPA would be best) and have match up a new one.
Reinstall and enjoy.
You use one wrench to hold the component (or the nut that is "fixed" to something) and a second wrench to loosen or tighten the nut or fitting that is designed to be moved.
BUT.....to do this, you clock the wrenches so they are working against each other. In other words, to loosen that big nut fitting that's screwed into the fuel filter, you would put a wrench on the fuel filter's molded in nut, (let's say for example you place this wrench at 6 o'clock) and then you put a second wrench on the movable fitting, (this wrench would be positioned at 7 o'clock). Then you force the wrenches against each other, making an effort to hold the fuel filter stationary and shove the second wrench against it.
Regarding your question about the leak coming from that copper area: That is a copper crush washer. Slide your repair hose off the stub of the old fuel line at your fuel filter fitting. Clock 2 wrenches as mentioned above and completely remove that long nut from the fuel filter. Remove the copper crush washer and take it over to an auto parts store (NAPA would be best) and have match up a new one.
Reinstall and enjoy.
08-31-2008, 08:17 AM
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thanks man,,, it was your idea.....
that is not a perm hold tho right? I mean Im still gonna take it to the shop aqand have them do it right ..... I tried to remove the large bolt to no avail. The smaller one is so stripped Icant get a grip on it. The more I mess with it the more it leaks
08-31-2008, 08:36 AM
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That fuel line is going to be EXPENSIVE if you buy a new one. if it were me...
<center><img src="http://www.ecklers.com/images/vette/50740.jpg"></center><p>I'd find a good used one. They're probably not in very high demand so just about anyone parting out a car could probably get one for you.
If you don't want to replace the whole thing then you could patch together what you have there in the engine bay, similar to what you've already done. You could probably take that filter assy out and get it onto a workbench to get it apart. The brass fittings and other parts are probably available at NAPA or other parts stores...dealer for sure.
Are you using real metric wrenches?....or an adjustable wrench? This might be a good excuse to buy a good fuel line wrench in the right size. They're worth the trouble to get.
If you don't want to replace the whole thing then you could patch together what you have there in the engine bay, similar to what you've already done. You could probably take that filter assy out and get it onto a workbench to get it apart. The brass fittings and other parts are probably available at NAPA or other parts stores...dealer for sure.
Are you using real metric wrenches?....or an adjustable wrench? This might be a good excuse to buy a good fuel line wrench in the right size. They're worth the trouble to get.
08-31-2008, 08:54 AM
#6
Dave's got a good point about using the right tools and quality tools for the job.
Even if you're on a budget, you should never be touching a car with less than the quality of Sears Craftsman. That's all I've ever used, even professionally. The only Snap-on and Mac stuff I have are specialty sockets, wobblies, and allens where I need the precision and strength.
If you're working on the car with a bunch of low dollar chinese/taiwanese tools, you're going to continue to brake stuff, round off nuts and bolts and screw driver heads, and just always be pissed off that you can't get anything apart.
The fix you've done with the fuel hose is nice, and if you used fuel injection rated fuel hose and not just regular fuel hose, it's actually pretty permanent.
However, you've got a leaking fitting, so you need to get this handled before you have a fire and your mom winds up back here trying to sell off the tail lights and rear bumper, because that's all that's left!
Personally, I'd go find a complete fuel line assembly off a wreck and use that.
If you're working on the car with a bunch of low dollar chinese/taiwanese tools, you're going to continue to brake stuff, round off nuts and bolts and screw driver heads, and just always be pissed off that you can't get anything apart.
The fix you've done with the fuel hose is nice, and if you used fuel injection rated fuel hose and not just regular fuel hose, it's actually pretty permanent.
However, you've got a leaking fitting, so you need to get this handled before you have a fire and your mom winds up back here trying to sell off the tail lights and rear bumper, because that's all that's left!
Personally, I'd go find a complete fuel line assembly off a wreck and use that.
08-31-2008, 09:45 AM
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your both right .....
I did use FI hose ..... (blue lining inside it) problem is the ends of the original fuel line are so mangled I'm having a problem with a tight seal.Seem to be leaking a lil now. Im thinking if I take it to the indy dealer here and say here's what I did now just do it right they might? I don't want to replace the whole line ans with 250,000 I can't really justify it. I don't see why they can't go it with compression fittings and real fuel line and do what I did... am I way off base here ?
