Audi 100/A6 (C4 92-97) FAQ Digest
06-26-2008, 09:42 AM
#181
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Re: How to replace the ingnition switch:
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06-30-2008, 01:02 PM
#182
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Turn/Cruise/Headlamp/Wiper Switch Replacement Procedure (1997 A6)
Here's what I did to replace the switch on my 97 A6 Quattro sedan. This procedure may or may not work for you. Use it at your own risk.
My headlights did not turn on when the headlamp stalk was placed in the `ON' position. Pulling the turn stalk to the `Flash' position did cause the high beams to come on. This behavior seems to be a symptom of a bad switch. Replacing the switch fixed it.
1. Adjust the steering wheel fully down and extended away from the dash.
2. Take off the top column cover by loosening two medium phillips head screws inset under the bottom cover.
<img src="http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/6484/switch1853al1.jpg" />
3. Write radio security code on a piece of tape and stick it on the battery. Disconnect the battery negative cable. No need to remove the positive cable.
CAUTION: If the airbag goes off and you're in front of it, you're probably going to be very seriously injured. When removing or installing the airbag, don't sit, or position yourself in front of it. Kneel outside car while loosening the Torx fasteners then move the airbag away from the wheel and unplug it.
4. Remove air bag by loosening two Torx T30 screws in holes in the back of the steering wheel (NOTE: You'll need at least a 2" shaft on the Torx. I used a T30 screwdriver. Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees so the hole is at the bottom to give room for the Torx screwdriver.)
<img src="http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/1429/switch1857gr6.jpg" />
5. The air bag is now loose from the clock spring assembly. Disconnect the red plug from the back of the air bag and place the air bag somewhere safely out of the way (out of the car with the airbag cover facing up is best). (NOTE: Do not turn on the ignition while the airbag is disconnected because the airbag light will come on and stay on until it's reset by the dealer or with VAG-COM).
<img src="http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/6656/switch1872am8.jpg" />
6. Disconnect the two connectors from the wheel to the column. The red connector can be slid out from under the leatherette bellows. The black connector is tucked in the right side.
<img src="http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/8549/switch1859zs0.jpg" />
7. For ease of reassembly later, make sure the wheels are straight ahead.
8. Remove the steering wheel nut (24mm or 15/16"). Before anything else, mark the position of the wheel on the shaft. (NOTE: I used a Sharpie to put a dot on the shaft at the 12 O'Clock position and another mark just above it on the wheel, not the nut. The marks will allow easy alignment of the splines on reassembly).
<img src="http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/6725/switch1871su0.jpg" />
9. Remove tilt adjustment lever on left. Use a 2mm Allen wrench to loosen a set screw on the bottom of the lever.
<img src="http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/8268/switch1855tp3.jpg" />
10. Remove the extension lever on the right. Rotate the lever down. Leave it in that position. Extract the wire spring clip out of the slot where the lever fits on the shaft. Slide the lever off the shaft.
<img src="http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/3337/switch1862fk2.jpg" />
11. Remove the lower column cover (1 long and 2 short Phillips screws).
<img src="http://img395.imageshack.us/img395/9536/switch1852nm7.jpg" />
12. Remove the switch assembly by loosening the screw clamp on switch assembly (4mm Allen wrench).
<img src="http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/744/switch1870fh3.jpg" />
13. Slide the switch assembly partially off the shaft.
14. Disconnect harness plugs on the back of the switch assembly and slide the switch completely off the shaft.
<img src="http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/2014/switch1865zn6.jpg" />
There are two separate switches in the assembly. One for turn/cruise/headlamp and the other for wipers. They are held together by two long Phillips screws at the top and bottom center. The separate switches may be replaced individually.
<img src="http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/6730/switch1869fn3.jpg" />
Reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly process. The steering wheel nut is torqued to 30 ft/lbs. The air bag bolts (Torx T30) are torqued to 44 in/lbs.
Retrieve the radio code you put on the battery and reset the radio.
[KEYWORDS: steering wheel column turn cruise headlamp headlight wiper stalk switch air bag airbag replace replacement repair]
My headlights did not turn on when the headlamp stalk was placed in the `ON' position. Pulling the turn stalk to the `Flash' position did cause the high beams to come on. This behavior seems to be a symptom of a bad switch. Replacing the switch fixed it.
1. Adjust the steering wheel fully down and extended away from the dash.
2. Take off the top column cover by loosening two medium phillips head screws inset under the bottom cover.
<img src="http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/6484/switch1853al1.jpg" />
3. Write radio security code on a piece of tape and stick it on the battery. Disconnect the battery negative cable. No need to remove the positive cable.
CAUTION: If the airbag goes off and you're in front of it, you're probably going to be very seriously injured. When removing or installing the airbag, don't sit, or position yourself in front of it. Kneel outside car while loosening the Torx fasteners then move the airbag away from the wheel and unplug it.
4. Remove air bag by loosening two Torx T30 screws in holes in the back of the steering wheel (NOTE: You'll need at least a 2" shaft on the Torx. I used a T30 screwdriver. Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees so the hole is at the bottom to give room for the Torx screwdriver.)
<img src="http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/1429/switch1857gr6.jpg" />
5. The air bag is now loose from the clock spring assembly. Disconnect the red plug from the back of the air bag and place the air bag somewhere safely out of the way (out of the car with the airbag cover facing up is best). (NOTE: Do not turn on the ignition while the airbag is disconnected because the airbag light will come on and stay on until it's reset by the dealer or with VAG-COM).
<img src="http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/6656/switch1872am8.jpg" />
6. Disconnect the two connectors from the wheel to the column. The red connector can be slid out from under the leatherette bellows. The black connector is tucked in the right side.
<img src="http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/8549/switch1859zs0.jpg" />
7. For ease of reassembly later, make sure the wheels are straight ahead.
8. Remove the steering wheel nut (24mm or 15/16"). Before anything else, mark the position of the wheel on the shaft. (NOTE: I used a Sharpie to put a dot on the shaft at the 12 O'Clock position and another mark just above it on the wheel, not the nut. The marks will allow easy alignment of the splines on reassembly).
<img src="http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/6725/switch1871su0.jpg" />
9. Remove tilt adjustment lever on left. Use a 2mm Allen wrench to loosen a set screw on the bottom of the lever.
<img src="http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/8268/switch1855tp3.jpg" />
10. Remove the extension lever on the right. Rotate the lever down. Leave it in that position. Extract the wire spring clip out of the slot where the lever fits on the shaft. Slide the lever off the shaft.
<img src="http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/3337/switch1862fk2.jpg" />
11. Remove the lower column cover (1 long and 2 short Phillips screws).
<img src="http://img395.imageshack.us/img395/9536/switch1852nm7.jpg" />
12. Remove the switch assembly by loosening the screw clamp on switch assembly (4mm Allen wrench).
<img src="http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/744/switch1870fh3.jpg" />
13. Slide the switch assembly partially off the shaft.
14. Disconnect harness plugs on the back of the switch assembly and slide the switch completely off the shaft.
<img src="http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/2014/switch1865zn6.jpg" />
There are two separate switches in the assembly. One for turn/cruise/headlamp and the other for wipers. They are held together by two long Phillips screws at the top and bottom center. The separate switches may be replaced individually.
<img src="http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/6730/switch1869fn3.jpg" />
Reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly process. The steering wheel nut is torqued to 30 ft/lbs. The air bag bolts (Torx T30) are torqued to 44 in/lbs.
Retrieve the radio code you put on the battery and reset the radio.
[KEYWORDS: steering wheel column turn cruise headlamp headlight wiper stalk switch air bag airbag replace replacement repair]
07-07-2008, 08:45 PM
#183
Replacing Outer CV Boots or Joints on the Front Axles
Hadn't done a set in an Audi, but remembered Daveinsaltlake talking about leaving the axles in-car, and using that long bolt to push the CV joint apart after that end of the axle was swung free of the hub.
Worked great, so thanks again Dave!
Took about 50min to do the first one and maybe 30-40min to do the second one because I bunged up the splines on the axle when the inner part of the CV joint cocked sideways as I was trying to pound the joint on with a BFH. I know better, because I've had this happen before, but doing them in-car made it hard to get a good straight shot with everything lined up, and then the hammer strike. Took a few minutes with a flat file to recut the entrance "ramps" to the splines on the axle end, then I was back in business.
Okay, enough story telling on to the method:
1)Pop hubcap off wheel
2)Loosen center axle bolt
3)Jack up that corner of the car and put a jack stand under
4)Using 1/2" drive impact gun, zip off the lugnuts and remove wheel
5)zip off the the center axle bolt
6)Remove the ABS sensor and tuck it up over the top of the hub and brake rotor, out of the way
7)Remove the nut for the steering tie-rod
8)Pop the steering tie-rod out of the strut housing. I left the nut on, just proud of the tapered bolt, and gave a couple good hits with a BFH and the tie-rod popped out. I got lucky. This should normally require a ball joint puller. NEVER USE A PICKLE FORK TYPE BALL JOINT TOOL!!!
9)Swing wheel hub so the front is inward fully
10)Watch out for binding the brake flex hose
11)Push CV joint stub out of hub (use the bit axle bolt as a push tool, or a big long screwdriver) and swing rearward to remove from hub area
12)Grab large CV Boot banding clamp lug with pliers, twist a couple times back and forth, and remove clamp
13)Use impact gun to run axle bolt back into CV joint stub axle until CV joint begins to move away from the car's axle.
14)Use BFH to tap CV joint off axle and pull off the old boot and the 2 washers inside.
15)Take apart CV joint as you would any CV joint and clean. If you're doing both sides, you can switch left CV joint for right CV joint and get the ball bearings to wear on a fresh joint area and get more life out of the joints. Mine were still nice, so I didn't switch.
16)Put some fresh grease in the joint and reassemble
17)Put the inside banding clamp on the axle
18)Put the new boot on using a flat blade screwdriver to get the narrow part of the boot up over the ridge on the axle. You put the screwdriver inside the boot and run the blade around the tight part of the boot in a circle while pushing/prying slightly and this sort of screws the boot over that ridge.
19)Put some grease in boot
20)Put on a new metal collar and plastic tapered collar on the axle end and push them home
21)Do a good job of lining up the CV inner splines with the axle and it's splines and then put the old axle bolt into the CV joint and pound the joint onto the axle
22)Confirm that the joint has gone on straight and is "home." You should not be able to just pull it off.
23)Clean all the grease off and put your banding clamps on, and crush down their tightening lugs. This tightening takes a special pair of pliers and they're inexpensive at autoparts stores. Do yourself a favor and buy a pair.
24)Finesse the assembled axle back into the hub
25)Put the ABS sensor back in place fully seated
26)Put the steering tie-rod back in place and tighten the nut.
27)Install the new axle bolt with your impact gun
28)Put the wheel on
29)Put the car on the ground and tighten the axle bolt and the lugnuts
30)Replace the hubcap.
You just saved yourself about $300-$400. Nice job!
Worked great, so thanks again Dave!
Took about 50min to do the first one and maybe 30-40min to do the second one because I bunged up the splines on the axle when the inner part of the CV joint cocked sideways as I was trying to pound the joint on with a BFH. I know better, because I've had this happen before, but doing them in-car made it hard to get a good straight shot with everything lined up, and then the hammer strike. Took a few minutes with a flat file to recut the entrance "ramps" to the splines on the axle end, then I was back in business.
Okay, enough story telling on to the method:
1)Pop hubcap off wheel
2)Loosen center axle bolt
3)Jack up that corner of the car and put a jack stand under
4)Using 1/2" drive impact gun, zip off the lugnuts and remove wheel
5)zip off the the center axle bolt
6)Remove the ABS sensor and tuck it up over the top of the hub and brake rotor, out of the way
7)Remove the nut for the steering tie-rod
8)Pop the steering tie-rod out of the strut housing. I left the nut on, just proud of the tapered bolt, and gave a couple good hits with a BFH and the tie-rod popped out. I got lucky. This should normally require a ball joint puller. NEVER USE A PICKLE FORK TYPE BALL JOINT TOOL!!!
9)Swing wheel hub so the front is inward fully
10)Watch out for binding the brake flex hose
11)Push CV joint stub out of hub (use the bit axle bolt as a push tool, or a big long screwdriver) and swing rearward to remove from hub area
12)Grab large CV Boot banding clamp lug with pliers, twist a couple times back and forth, and remove clamp
13)Use impact gun to run axle bolt back into CV joint stub axle until CV joint begins to move away from the car's axle.
14)Use BFH to tap CV joint off axle and pull off the old boot and the 2 washers inside.
15)Take apart CV joint as you would any CV joint and clean. If you're doing both sides, you can switch left CV joint for right CV joint and get the ball bearings to wear on a fresh joint area and get more life out of the joints. Mine were still nice, so I didn't switch.
16)Put some fresh grease in the joint and reassemble
17)Put the inside banding clamp on the axle
18)Put the new boot on using a flat blade screwdriver to get the narrow part of the boot up over the ridge on the axle. You put the screwdriver inside the boot and run the blade around the tight part of the boot in a circle while pushing/prying slightly and this sort of screws the boot over that ridge.
19)Put some grease in boot
20)Put on a new metal collar and plastic tapered collar on the axle end and push them home
21)Do a good job of lining up the CV inner splines with the axle and it's splines and then put the old axle bolt into the CV joint and pound the joint onto the axle
22)Confirm that the joint has gone on straight and is "home." You should not be able to just pull it off.
23)Clean all the grease off and put your banding clamps on, and crush down their tightening lugs. This tightening takes a special pair of pliers and they're inexpensive at autoparts stores. Do yourself a favor and buy a pair.
24)Finesse the assembled axle back into the hub
25)Put the ABS sensor back in place fully seated
26)Put the steering tie-rod back in place and tighten the nut.
27)Install the new axle bolt with your impact gun
28)Put the wheel on
29)Put the car on the ground and tighten the axle bolt and the lugnuts
30)Replace the hubcap.
You just saved yourself about $300-$400. Nice job!
07-21-2008, 12:45 PM
#185
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Bilstein Strut Tools
Chain wrench for loosening the strut cap between the spring coils. From <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42717">Harbor Freight.</a>
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/42717.jpg">
Cap wrench supplied by Bilstein (free for the asking, just call them). Useful if the strut assembly is already disassembled.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/bilstein_strut_tool.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/42717.jpg">
Cap wrench supplied by Bilstein (free for the asking, just call them). Useful if the strut assembly is already disassembled.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/bilstein_strut_tool.jpg">
07-21-2008, 12:51 PM
#186
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Transmission fluid pump
Transmission fluid pump for refilling an Audi automatic trans. For outboard motors but works just fine. Available in marine supply stores like <a href="http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?catalogId=10001&Ntx=mode+matchallpa rtial&keyword=outboard+lube+pump&Ntt=outboard+lube +pump&N=377+710&storeId=10001&Ntk=Primary+Search&d dkey=SiteSearch">West Marine.</a>
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/trans_fluid_pump.1.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/trans_fluid_pump.1.jpg">
07-21-2008, 12:55 PM
#187
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Brake Caliper Tool
Needed mostly for the rear calipers. Allows compressing and twisting at the same time. Also compresses the front calipers. Available from <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40732">Harbor Freight.</a>
<img src="http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/5597/brakecalipertoolrj2.jpg">
<img src="http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/5597/brakecalipertoolrj2.jpg">
07-21-2008, 01:03 PM
#188
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Cam Tools for 12V
Cam holder bar and crank pin needed when replacing the timing belt. Available from <a href="http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=PROD&PROD=VW3243AND3242&CTMP=1">ZD Mak.</a>
<img src="http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/4931/12vcamtoolsuc2.jpg">
<img src="http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/4931/12vcamtoolsuc2.jpg">
07-21-2008, 05:46 PM
#189
2nd Brake Caliper Tool
<center><img src="http://www.metalnerd.com/images/products/cat08/mn3272a.jpg"></center><p><ul><li><a href="http://www.metalnerd.com/cat08.htm">Metalnerd</a></li></ul>
07-23-2008, 03:47 PM
#190
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This diagram works for locations in all C4, but what the relays and fuses do are for non-secondary..
air pump cars. The J299 relay is supposed to be where the shif lock relay is on Auto cars.