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    [Thread] [Post Followup] [Post Picture] [Search Forums] [Audi 100 / A6 (C4 Platform) Discussion]
    Compendium of Posts Outlining Ignition Switch R&R Procedure
    Posted by: DaveInSaltLake on 2005-09-12 15:35:00
    Account #: 95629

    In Reply to: Ignition Switch is sticky, doesn't return to "run"... Well... it's broken posted by snowman '92 100 on 2004-07-30 17:21:40

    I noticed this FAQ doesn't really have an entry for replacing the ignition switch, so I thought I'd share the results of my spending a couple of hours sifting thru search results. And since I don't know the prevailing feeling about reposting text written by other members, I'll just post links to their posts.

    http://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/40096.phtml use with the next link covering instrument cluster removal: http://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/22219.phtml

    http://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/10899.phtml

    http://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/13399.phtml

    http://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/28564.phtml

    http://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/47727.phtml (more info on removing the IC)

    I haven't done this R&R yet, and so don't have any personal input. It appears the instructions may vary for different models and model years.

    This obviously isn't exhaustive...feel free to add more.

    Edit: OK, NOW I have something to add.

    Given: 1992 Audi 100 CS, automatic transmission
    Non-quattro
    New black switch
    A handful of write-ups from this board
    My very user-UNfriendly Bentley CD-ROM

    Process: Pulled the IC most of the way, only unplugged 2 connectors and that gave me enough room to manuever. Pulled the knee bolster panels, which turned out to be completely unnecessary. Forget screwing around with the Bowden Cable Cover, as Bentley calls it, I didn't need to do it. Moved the relay that's obviously in the way, unplugged the connector from the back of the switch, loosened the two little set screws...out came the switch.

    Key elements to reassembly--note proper orientation of new switch before sticking it into the dark void. I couldn't get the connector back on after I had the switch installed so I pulled it back out, plugged in the connector, and then stuffed back into the dash and into the end of the lock cylinder....that worked just fine for me.

    I have to wonder if the high failure rate for these switches is due to people forcing the switch to turn when the steering wheel is locked. I'm in the habit of jiggling the steering wheel enough to let the key turn easily.

    And, I don't see how a heavy keyring could wear the plastic ignition switch. The switch is about 4 or 5 inches behind the dash on the end of a long metal lock cylinder. I don't see any way for the weight to be transferred to the plastic parts.

    my 2 cents...

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