EGR port clogged with oil
11-26-2001, 01:41 PM
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EGR port clogged with oil
Hi,
I have a '96 Audi A6 2.8L. A few days back the "check engine" light in the dashboard came on. I took it in to an Audi dealer and he diagnosed that the EGR port is clogged with oil and the gasket will have to be changed. I would like to get some more info on this like how critical this component is and will this have to be replaced ASAP? Is it OK to continue driving the car? I would like to defer this service for a month or so, since the shop which usually does the service is closed for renovations and I would rather wait for them to re-open. My car has about 65500 miles on it. Any info will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Priya
I have a '96 Audi A6 2.8L. A few days back the "check engine" light in the dashboard came on. I took it in to an Audi dealer and he diagnosed that the EGR port is clogged with oil and the gasket will have to be changed. I would like to get some more info on this like how critical this component is and will this have to be replaced ASAP? Is it OK to continue driving the car? I would like to defer this service for a month or so, since the shop which usually does the service is closed for renovations and I would rather wait for them to re-open. My car has about 65500 miles on it. Any info will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Priya
11-27-2001, 05:21 AM
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Re: It's no big deal....as long as a flashing light doesn't bother you!!
Well...the "check engine" light hasn't started flashing yet. It just stays on steady. I guess when it starts flashing that means there is a critical problem.
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11-27-2001, 05:36 AM
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Re: Not that port.....it's a VERY small passage in the intake manifold. It actually clogs with carb
I must have heard it wrong then. Is the clogging normal or does it depend on what kind of fuel is used? I usually use 94 octane fuel and sometimes 93 (if I can't find a Sunoco station nearby and I'm dangerously low on gas).
11-27-2001, 09:12 PM
#9
Nope they all (12v's) do it, usually around 80k miles....some sooner some later!!...(more)
Maybe this will help you fix it....
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/1889/egrmanual.jpg">
NOTE: The red circle indicates the approximate location of where the blockage usually occurs.
Here's a detailed write-up, by ARK, on how to clean it out (this is for a 90 but the main points will be the same for a 100):
<i>
First you need to get two gaskets from your Audi dealer. One is between the EGR valve and the intake manifold. The other is between the Throttle body and the intake manifold. Find yourself a 7/8 inch FLARENUT open-end wrench (SEARS). Make sure you know your radio code, as the battery may have to be removed for easier access.
1) Remove the plastic battery cover. Using the 7/8 flarenut wrench, squeeze your arm past the ABS unit, and loosen the flarenut connecting the end of the EGR tube to the rear of the drivers side exhaust manifold. Remove the battery if you need more reach-in room. This is the hardest part of the whole operation.
2) Remove the plastic engine cover, remove the MAF to throttle body duct black rubber duct tube (loosen the two hose clamps).
3) Remove the black plastic throttle body duct: One hose clamp for the breather tube (drivers side), one squeeze-to-remove breather tube to the passenger side valve cover, and one vacuum line on the rear. Remove the two 10MM (11?) bolts on top, and then pull the duct off, by pushing it straight back towards the firewall. Careful not to lose the rubber bushings on the two guide pins!
4) Disconnect the cruise vacuum servo (one bolt, one hose, and a twisty (?) pin/wire at the linkage ball joint)
5) Remove the rearmost drivers side spark plug wire, and unplug the rearmost fuel injector (depress the wire spring, and pull straight off) for maximum access. Also, similarly unplug the square and rectangular plugs just rearward, mounted to a metal bracket, facing straight up.
6) Remove the two 10mm (11?) bolts which hold the EGR valve to the intake manifold. Use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and short extension for the front bolt, and a universal swivel for the rear.
7) Pull the EGR valve off the intake manifold, and wiggle back and forth until the pipe to exhaust manifold comes loose. Now just set the EGR valve to the side, to gain access to the passage hole on the intake manifold.
8) Remove the blue vacuum line, and the two TORX head screws which hold the intake manifold changeover vacuum servo to the manifold. I did not pop the linkage ball off, just let it the servo hang.
9) Remove the 4 hex socket head bolts ("Allen key") which hold the throttle body to the intake manifold. If you want to remove the throttle body (for cleaning), disconnect the throttle position sensor plug, throttle cable (two clips), vacuum hose on the right side, and evap hose on the left side (clamp). Otherwise, you could just let the throttle body hang against the firewall. (Amazing how small the "Primary" throttle butterfly is!!)
10) The plugged EGR passage is now visible (!?). It is located on the intake manifold "floor" just behind the location of the smaller primary throttle butterfly was located. It is probably just a darker black circle, about the diameter of a pencil eraser.
11) Clean it out with a sharp instrument. Use a shop vac to try to suck up the carbon debris. Then clean the rest of the passage, which makes a 90-degree turn, and runs to the now exposed EGR valve hole. I used a foot long piece of aircraft/bicycle cable, attached to my cordless drill, as sort of a power-cleaning snake.
12) Reverse everything, and put it back together. Double check that you have not forgotten to reconnect any hoses, connectors, spark plug wires, vacuum lines...
Reset the computer by leaving the battery disconnected for 15 minutes. I did not use any gasket sealing compounds.
13) Enjoy code free, ping free motoring for another 80K miles! </i>
HTH!!
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/1889/egrmanual.jpg">
NOTE: The red circle indicates the approximate location of where the blockage usually occurs.
Here's a detailed write-up, by ARK, on how to clean it out (this is for a 90 but the main points will be the same for a 100):
<i>
First you need to get two gaskets from your Audi dealer. One is between the EGR valve and the intake manifold. The other is between the Throttle body and the intake manifold. Find yourself a 7/8 inch FLARENUT open-end wrench (SEARS). Make sure you know your radio code, as the battery may have to be removed for easier access.
1) Remove the plastic battery cover. Using the 7/8 flarenut wrench, squeeze your arm past the ABS unit, and loosen the flarenut connecting the end of the EGR tube to the rear of the drivers side exhaust manifold. Remove the battery if you need more reach-in room. This is the hardest part of the whole operation.
2) Remove the plastic engine cover, remove the MAF to throttle body duct black rubber duct tube (loosen the two hose clamps).
3) Remove the black plastic throttle body duct: One hose clamp for the breather tube (drivers side), one squeeze-to-remove breather tube to the passenger side valve cover, and one vacuum line on the rear. Remove the two 10MM (11?) bolts on top, and then pull the duct off, by pushing it straight back towards the firewall. Careful not to lose the rubber bushings on the two guide pins!
4) Disconnect the cruise vacuum servo (one bolt, one hose, and a twisty (?) pin/wire at the linkage ball joint)
5) Remove the rearmost drivers side spark plug wire, and unplug the rearmost fuel injector (depress the wire spring, and pull straight off) for maximum access. Also, similarly unplug the square and rectangular plugs just rearward, mounted to a metal bracket, facing straight up.
6) Remove the two 10mm (11?) bolts which hold the EGR valve to the intake manifold. Use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and short extension for the front bolt, and a universal swivel for the rear.
7) Pull the EGR valve off the intake manifold, and wiggle back and forth until the pipe to exhaust manifold comes loose. Now just set the EGR valve to the side, to gain access to the passage hole on the intake manifold.
8) Remove the blue vacuum line, and the two TORX head screws which hold the intake manifold changeover vacuum servo to the manifold. I did not pop the linkage ball off, just let it the servo hang.
9) Remove the 4 hex socket head bolts ("Allen key") which hold the throttle body to the intake manifold. If you want to remove the throttle body (for cleaning), disconnect the throttle position sensor plug, throttle cable (two clips), vacuum hose on the right side, and evap hose on the left side (clamp). Otherwise, you could just let the throttle body hang against the firewall. (Amazing how small the "Primary" throttle butterfly is!!)
10) The plugged EGR passage is now visible (!?). It is located on the intake manifold "floor" just behind the location of the smaller primary throttle butterfly was located. It is probably just a darker black circle, about the diameter of a pencil eraser.
11) Clean it out with a sharp instrument. Use a shop vac to try to suck up the carbon debris. Then clean the rest of the passage, which makes a 90-degree turn, and runs to the now exposed EGR valve hole. I used a foot long piece of aircraft/bicycle cable, attached to my cordless drill, as sort of a power-cleaning snake.
12) Reverse everything, and put it back together. Double check that you have not forgotten to reconnect any hoses, connectors, spark plug wires, vacuum lines...
Reset the computer by leaving the battery disconnected for 15 minutes. I did not use any gasket sealing compounds.
13) Enjoy code free, ping free motoring for another 80K miles! </i>
HTH!!