Thinkin to put a 20AMP fuse for those(ION)fogs i have recently installed.Not good idea..? Inputs?TIA
12-14-2005, 02:19 PM
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Thinkin to put a 20AMP fuse for those(ION)fogs i have recently installed.Not good idea..? Inputs?TIA
20amp instead of the original 15amp(but along with those poor original Fogs). But ****! I dont really wonna mess around! Do i take the chance on messing up my electrical system or something?
Im almost depressed... Help me out on that one.
TIA guys...
Im almost depressed... Help me out on that one.
TIA guys...
12-14-2005, 03:11 PM
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You can't be serious?
If you are going to run higher wattage lamps, just install a relay to power them. The 15 amp fuse is there for a reason. The wiring and switches on that circuit are rated for no more than 15 amps. If you are going to bypass this safety feature, do it right. Install a 50amp fuse!
Seriously though, you could be running the risk of fire in the worst place...under the dash where you can't get to it. Change to a smaller wattage lamp or re-wire using a relay to power the higher wattage lamps.
Seriously though, you could be running the risk of fire in the worst place...under the dash where you can't get to it. Change to a smaller wattage lamp or re-wire using a relay to power the higher wattage lamps.
12-14-2005, 03:45 PM
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If you can wait until tommorow I will post a schematic.
But let me try to explain. You need a properly sized relay. Lets assume 80w lamps, so 160W divided by 12V is 13.3 amps. Multiply 13.3 by 125% for a safety margin gives us 16.6 amps. So choose a 20amp relay.
The existing fog light wiring (switched 12v and a ground) are used to 'switch' the relay. A seperate (and new) 12v 'hot' wire from the battery is then wired to one of the normally open contacts of the relay. The other normally open contact is then wired to the lights.
When you turn on the lights the relay closes and you have light.
Also, you need to fuse the new hot wire from the battery with (in this case) a 20amp fuse. This fuse should be located as close to the battery as possible, since the main point is to protect the wire in case of a short.
Since we are fusing at 20 amps, we need wire capable of sustaining 20amps of current flow. The minimum correct size is #14 AWG.
The existing fog light wiring (switched 12v and a ground) are used to 'switch' the relay. A seperate (and new) 12v 'hot' wire from the battery is then wired to one of the normally open contacts of the relay. The other normally open contact is then wired to the lights.
When you turn on the lights the relay closes and you have light.
Also, you need to fuse the new hot wire from the battery with (in this case) a 20amp fuse. This fuse should be located as close to the battery as possible, since the main point is to protect the wire in case of a short.
Since we are fusing at 20 amps, we need wire capable of sustaining 20amps of current flow. The minimum correct size is #14 AWG.
12-14-2005, 05:06 PM
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Found this pic...
Saves me from drawing it. You can disregard the switch and indicator light shown. Your factory fog light wire would go directly to relay terminal "85".
<img src="http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglite.jpg">
<img src="http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglite.jpg">
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