How to: Change a front outer CV boot without removing pinch bolt or lower arm.
11-03-2005, 07:02 AM
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
How to: Change a front outer CV boot without removing pinch bolt or lower arm.
Sorry, I have no pictures - we were elbow deep in the project before it occurred to me that my camera was in the house.
The method described below applies to a 99 A6 Avant 2.8 Quattro. It is probably no better, or no worse than the other techniques I found in AW:
<a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel37.shtml">1. https://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel37.shtml</a>
<a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc27.shtml">2. https://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc27.shtml</a>
The passengers side front outboard CV boot sprung a leak a couple weeks ago and I recruited my VW tech friend to help out (he did almost all the work, heh heh...).
Contrary to the few "how-to's" I've found here, he assured me that the job could be done without removing the upper control arm pinch bolt, or popping the lower arm loose. Instead, just remove the entire axle so it can be worked on at the bench. Here's how:
Before jacking up the car to work on it, the wheel center cap must be removed so that the large allen head bolt can be loosened. Just about the only way to do this is with the car on the ground, parking brake set, and a large 1/2" breaker bar. A cheater bar may be required, or putting all your weight on it (stand on the bar).
With the center bolt loose (or removed), elevate the car, position jack stand(s), remove the wheel.
-Remove the 3 bolts securing the cast aluminum CV boot shield on the transmission.
-Remove the 6 triple square head bolts which connect the inner CV to the transmission.
Now the axle is free to be removed. Again, we were working on the passengers side so...
-Swing the inner end toward the front of the car; there is an obvious void. The axle's free range of motion in this direction will be limited by the shock absorber.
-We only raised the right front corner of the car,
so in order to slide the axle out of the hub (outer end), it was necessary to turn the steering wheel to the LEFT. If the entire front end is in the air (suspension at full droop) then there should be room to get the axle out without turning the steering wheel. At least that was the theory since Mr. VW tech does this job on a lift. Anyway, with the steering wheel turned the right amount, there is just enough room to slide the axle into the aforementioned void in front of the transmission and out of the hub.
With the axle out of the car, we clamped it in my large Wilton bench vise and changed the boot just like described in the other how-to guides. Mr. VW tech brought a CV boot kit which includes the boot, grease, and replacement outer hex bolt, boot bands, and axle circlip.
The outer joint can be knocked off the axle shaft with a hammer. This is exactly the way I've always removed CV joints from axle shafts on many of my Honda's [duck!].
Installation is the reverse of removal. The job was done in 30 min and would have gone faster if we raised the entire front end.
The method described below applies to a 99 A6 Avant 2.8 Quattro. It is probably no better, or no worse than the other techniques I found in AW:
<a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel37.shtml">1. https://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel37.shtml</a>
<a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc27.shtml">2. https://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc27.shtml</a>
The passengers side front outboard CV boot sprung a leak a couple weeks ago and I recruited my VW tech friend to help out (he did almost all the work, heh heh...).
Contrary to the few "how-to's" I've found here, he assured me that the job could be done without removing the upper control arm pinch bolt, or popping the lower arm loose. Instead, just remove the entire axle so it can be worked on at the bench. Here's how:
Before jacking up the car to work on it, the wheel center cap must be removed so that the large allen head bolt can be loosened. Just about the only way to do this is with the car on the ground, parking brake set, and a large 1/2" breaker bar. A cheater bar may be required, or putting all your weight on it (stand on the bar).
With the center bolt loose (or removed), elevate the car, position jack stand(s), remove the wheel.
-Remove the 3 bolts securing the cast aluminum CV boot shield on the transmission.
-Remove the 6 triple square head bolts which connect the inner CV to the transmission.
Now the axle is free to be removed. Again, we were working on the passengers side so...
-Swing the inner end toward the front of the car; there is an obvious void. The axle's free range of motion in this direction will be limited by the shock absorber.
-We only raised the right front corner of the car,
so in order to slide the axle out of the hub (outer end), it was necessary to turn the steering wheel to the LEFT. If the entire front end is in the air (suspension at full droop) then there should be room to get the axle out without turning the steering wheel. At least that was the theory since Mr. VW tech does this job on a lift. Anyway, with the steering wheel turned the right amount, there is just enough room to slide the axle into the aforementioned void in front of the transmission and out of the hub.
With the axle out of the car, we clamped it in my large Wilton bench vise and changed the boot just like described in the other how-to guides. Mr. VW tech brought a CV boot kit which includes the boot, grease, and replacement outer hex bolt, boot bands, and axle circlip.
The outer joint can be knocked off the axle shaft with a hammer. This is exactly the way I've always removed CV joints from axle shafts on many of my Honda's [duck!].
Installation is the reverse of removal. The job was done in 30 min and would have gone faster if we raised the entire front end.
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