Think my torque converter is going out, question inside
10-01-2005, 09:29 AM
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Think my torque converter is going out, question inside
For those of you that have had TQ problems what did you notice before failure. Mine acts a little arratic and slips real bad at the 1-2 shift. Seems like it surges real bad in tip but not drive. Just trying to get an idea if im on the right track. Was bound to happen with a 2+ car with 107k I guess.
10-01-2005, 10:32 AM
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If you have access to a Vag Com, log block 007 in the Transmission module...
Block 007 allows you to watch the trans fluid temps, the torque converter lock/unlock, and the amount of slip. If your TC is slipping excessively, you'll see it here and you may see higher fluid temps as well. Normal temp range seems to be 80-90.
Hope this helps. Good luck
Hope this helps. Good luck
10-01-2005, 12:03 PM
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Re: If you have access to a Vag Com, log block 007 in the Transmission module...
I have a vag-com so I will take a look. I know something is slipping and it acts like the converter.
10-02-2005, 06:46 AM
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If you're feeling it during the 1-2 shift, I'd guess the TC as well...
Doesn't hurt to check everything else, though.
The TC lock is controlled by a solenoid in the valve body. At approx 2,000 rpm, the TCU increases voltage to the solenoid to approx .750. This in turn causes the TC to lock. (There may be some additional factors other than rpm, e.g. load, that will cause the TCU to lock the TC, but we haven't been able to figure that out yet).
Watch the voltages and TC lock around 2,000 rpm. If the valve body is operating correctly, at approx 2,000 rpm you should see the voltage increase to approx .750. The TC should then lock immediately. As rpms decline, the voltage will begin to decline allowing the TC to partially un-lock until it eventually fully unlocks. If you see a lag between the .750 voltage and TC lock or if the TC intermittently locks and unlocks while the .750 voltage is showing you likely have a VB issue.
A friend is dealing with this issue now. He's already replaced the TC with an L10 TC and replaced the solenoid that controls TC lock. Next step (Tuesday) is to remove and thoroughly clean the VB. The theory currently, is that there is some blockage or failed part within the VB that is not fully allowing hydraulic pressure to lock the TC.
Most shops when faced with these problems, recommend replacing the TC, VB, or the entire tranny. In this case, the owner and the shop are trying to determine the exact problem in order to avoid the expensive "remove and replace" method of fixing the problem.
Finally, if you need to replace the TC I recommend the L10 "street tune" TC. I put one in my car and am very pleased. Shifts are quicker and firmer, and power delivery seems quicker also.
The TC lock is controlled by a solenoid in the valve body. At approx 2,000 rpm, the TCU increases voltage to the solenoid to approx .750. This in turn causes the TC to lock. (There may be some additional factors other than rpm, e.g. load, that will cause the TCU to lock the TC, but we haven't been able to figure that out yet).
Watch the voltages and TC lock around 2,000 rpm. If the valve body is operating correctly, at approx 2,000 rpm you should see the voltage increase to approx .750. The TC should then lock immediately. As rpms decline, the voltage will begin to decline allowing the TC to partially un-lock until it eventually fully unlocks. If you see a lag between the .750 voltage and TC lock or if the TC intermittently locks and unlocks while the .750 voltage is showing you likely have a VB issue.
A friend is dealing with this issue now. He's already replaced the TC with an L10 TC and replaced the solenoid that controls TC lock. Next step (Tuesday) is to remove and thoroughly clean the VB. The theory currently, is that there is some blockage or failed part within the VB that is not fully allowing hydraulic pressure to lock the TC.
Most shops when faced with these problems, recommend replacing the TC, VB, or the entire tranny. In this case, the owner and the shop are trying to determine the exact problem in order to avoid the expensive "remove and replace" method of fixing the problem.
Finally, if you need to replace the TC I recommend the L10 "street tune" TC. I put one in my car and am very pleased. Shifts are quicker and firmer, and power delivery seems quicker also.
10-02-2005, 08:37 AM
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Re: If you're feeling it during the 1-2 shift, I'd guess the TC as well...
I think I have had the problem for a while. Just noticed it more when the chip went in. My dyno sheet shows a big dip right after peak torque and then it kind of flutters a little after that. The numbers also seem lower than they should be. I have seen the L10 unit but also saw a unit by IPT. Have any of you heard of them or had any experience with them.
10-02-2005, 12:20 PM
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I've heard of them, but haven't found anyone that actually has one...
Most people who post on AW have gone with the L10. Another option is 2Bennett. This is a dedicated Audi tuning shop in Davis, CA. They've been around for a long time and have a good reputation. They're now doing Tip upgrades (see the latest European Car). You may want to talk to Ken re your symptoms. He may be able to provide some additional insight.<ul><li><a href="http://www.2bennett.com/">http://www.2bennett.com/</a</li></ul>
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