H-Sport install pointers (very long)
12-06-2003, 04:13 PM
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H-Sport install pointers (very long)
(Rears)
I used jack stands, but placed one set under the lower wishbone and one set under the jack-point on the frame. This loads the suspension for those that don't have ramps and keeps everything (you and your baby) safe. As a triple safety, I positioned the floor jack under a solid point in the center of the car - forward of the rear suspension. I'm a safety freak - I know it. I didn't totally trust the stands under the suspension the whole time I was under the car.
I found it easier to remove the exhaust hanger bracket attachment bolts (13mm) rather than the rubber hangers themselves. Air tools make this an easier proposition.
The instructions say you *may need to remove the center exhaust hangers. I found it unnecessary, but it would have helped a little in the removal of the old bar. Again, I would remove the hanger bracket bolts rather than try to pry off the rubbers. If you do remove the center support, I strongly suggest you provide *some support of the exhaust system rather than rely on the front section to support the entire weight of the rear sections.
Removing the wheel on the side you are trying to work out the old bar will makes things easier if you're not on ramps.
Thank God for Craftsman ratchet wrenches. It was difficult to work from the front side of the rear suspension. The area available by the front attachment points is too small to turn a wrench far and too tight to get in air tools. The ratchet wrenches were just the ticket here. If you don't have set of these shame/shame go out and get one of each SAE and Metric right now.
Unfortunately, My set doesn't include a 16mm. 16mm? I've never seen this size used on anything before - although I have 16mm sockets... The good news is that 16mm is the same as 5/8". You'll need two of each 16mm and 13mm wrenches, as the fasteners are bolt/nut.
As you finish drawing the old bar out, try to keep it in the same relative position as you place it on the ground. Placing the new bar in the same orientation before trying to install it will make things easier.
The supplied grease is STICKY-Gooey, don't use your fingers; work it out from the tube. I noticed the grease is from Energy Suspensions. My guess is that the poly bushings are as well. They are big in the off-road (bushings and such) market.
After you have the bar in place and are ready to install the bushings - take note. Don't try to slide the bushings over the end of the bar - they are split and should be put on the bar at the point they will be installed. The supplied grease is VERY sticky stuff and you don't want to get it all over the place.
Pull off and toss the little plastic caps they put on the zerk fittings that are in the brackets. I figure the exhaust is so close it will melt them off anyway and you'll just save yourself from the stink. Make sure you install the brackets so the fittings are pointing down (it will make greasing the bushings later on easier.)
(Front)
I again used Jack stands - one set under the lower control arm, near the ball joint, almost right up against the tire. This seemed much more stable than the rear, but I still put in another pair under the jack points on the car just to be safe.
The rest of the front install was pretty straightforward; the instructions pretty well cover everything.
If you've never had the lower pan off before (me), it will take a little searching to find all the fasteners. There are 3 flathead quick fasteners along the rear edge, three more across the front edge, 3 T-30 Torx screws at the rearmost lip of the front bumper/valance, 2 plastic flatheads in the wheel-well and one 10mm bolt there as well(each side.) Pay attention to this area and how it fits for reassembly later.
You may want to make note of where the stock bar is relative to the pan. You will need to trim down this area slightly to get the attachment holes that are in the wheel-wells back into alignment. I used a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel on the slowest speed and a utility knife to trim this area. The main body of the pan is fiberglass; the smaller parts are soft plastic.
Removal and installation of the front bar is a breeze. You may want an extra hand for holding the new bracket relocating plates in place while you're installing the new bar brackets. Unless you're a weakling and have no dexterity, it's possible for one person to do, just easier with two. Again, the front bushings are split so you can work them over the bar at the position they need to be installed.
Air tools help immensely. Buy, borrow, or steal a compressor and air ratchet. I have one of the hose reels mounted to the ceiling in the garage and it always makes these jobs easier and quicker. I can't remember the last time I used a hand ratchet.
I used jack stands, but placed one set under the lower wishbone and one set under the jack-point on the frame. This loads the suspension for those that don't have ramps and keeps everything (you and your baby) safe. As a triple safety, I positioned the floor jack under a solid point in the center of the car - forward of the rear suspension. I'm a safety freak - I know it. I didn't totally trust the stands under the suspension the whole time I was under the car.
I found it easier to remove the exhaust hanger bracket attachment bolts (13mm) rather than the rubber hangers themselves. Air tools make this an easier proposition.
The instructions say you *may need to remove the center exhaust hangers. I found it unnecessary, but it would have helped a little in the removal of the old bar. Again, I would remove the hanger bracket bolts rather than try to pry off the rubbers. If you do remove the center support, I strongly suggest you provide *some support of the exhaust system rather than rely on the front section to support the entire weight of the rear sections.
Removing the wheel on the side you are trying to work out the old bar will makes things easier if you're not on ramps.
Thank God for Craftsman ratchet wrenches. It was difficult to work from the front side of the rear suspension. The area available by the front attachment points is too small to turn a wrench far and too tight to get in air tools. The ratchet wrenches were just the ticket here. If you don't have set of these shame/shame go out and get one of each SAE and Metric right now.
Unfortunately, My set doesn't include a 16mm. 16mm? I've never seen this size used on anything before - although I have 16mm sockets... The good news is that 16mm is the same as 5/8". You'll need two of each 16mm and 13mm wrenches, as the fasteners are bolt/nut.
As you finish drawing the old bar out, try to keep it in the same relative position as you place it on the ground. Placing the new bar in the same orientation before trying to install it will make things easier.
The supplied grease is STICKY-Gooey, don't use your fingers; work it out from the tube. I noticed the grease is from Energy Suspensions. My guess is that the poly bushings are as well. They are big in the off-road (bushings and such) market.
After you have the bar in place and are ready to install the bushings - take note. Don't try to slide the bushings over the end of the bar - they are split and should be put on the bar at the point they will be installed. The supplied grease is VERY sticky stuff and you don't want to get it all over the place.
Pull off and toss the little plastic caps they put on the zerk fittings that are in the brackets. I figure the exhaust is so close it will melt them off anyway and you'll just save yourself from the stink. Make sure you install the brackets so the fittings are pointing down (it will make greasing the bushings later on easier.)
(Front)
I again used Jack stands - one set under the lower control arm, near the ball joint, almost right up against the tire. This seemed much more stable than the rear, but I still put in another pair under the jack points on the car just to be safe.
The rest of the front install was pretty straightforward; the instructions pretty well cover everything.
If you've never had the lower pan off before (me), it will take a little searching to find all the fasteners. There are 3 flathead quick fasteners along the rear edge, three more across the front edge, 3 T-30 Torx screws at the rearmost lip of the front bumper/valance, 2 plastic flatheads in the wheel-well and one 10mm bolt there as well(each side.) Pay attention to this area and how it fits for reassembly later.
You may want to make note of where the stock bar is relative to the pan. You will need to trim down this area slightly to get the attachment holes that are in the wheel-wells back into alignment. I used a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel on the slowest speed and a utility knife to trim this area. The main body of the pan is fiberglass; the smaller parts are soft plastic.
Removal and installation of the front bar is a breeze. You may want an extra hand for holding the new bracket relocating plates in place while you're installing the new bar brackets. Unless you're a weakling and have no dexterity, it's possible for one person to do, just easier with two. Again, the front bushings are split so you can work them over the bar at the position they need to be installed.
Air tools help immensely. Buy, borrow, or steal a compressor and air ratchet. I have one of the hose reels mounted to the ceiling in the garage and it always makes these jobs easier and quicker. I can't remember the last time I used a hand ratchet.
12-06-2003, 06:33 PM
#6
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There's already a tech article for the PSK (rear) that contains the info & photos
<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel21.shtml">https://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel21.shtml</a></li></ul>
12-06-2003, 06:49 PM
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Yes, very good article on rear only PSK bar install.
I was a bit too impatient to get out the camera and take pics of the whole install. I had about 3 hours to get it done by myself and figured I wouldn't finish if I had to take too many pics.
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