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Old 08-26-2003, 12:54 PM
  #41  
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Default Ok, this guy lied to your face...details...

"The tech reset the light...it will go off after driving the car 50 miles."

That is a LIE! If they clear the codes in the ECU (Computer that controls your car), the Check Engine light will go out. period. end of story. no debate.

It sounds like you had a bad O2 sensor when you purchased the car and they didn't fix it. Then when you brought it back they did fix it? What did the work order say?

So now it is going on and off? Basically, when the CE light comes on you have a code in the ECU. If it goes off, it means that the code was cleared because during the course of running the car, the ECU determined that it was no longer a problem.

Crude example:

The ECU detects a 02 problem one time. Then you run the car for say 40 hours without one 02 problem. The ECU may then decide to clear the 02 code and as a result the CE light will go out.

What you may have is an 02 sensor or something else that is on the brink of failing. Either way, that line he gave you at the dealership when you picked it up is BS. Doesn't sound like an electrical problem, but you will need to know which codes are in the ECU to be certain.

-st
Old 08-26-2003, 01:05 PM
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Default Are there so many things that can make OBD port fail since diagnosis took 10 hours?...

Sorry to hear by the way. I hope that the problem gets fixed fast.
Old 08-26-2003, 01:11 PM
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Default Why is this so hard to believe?

Here's the deal - all this wonderful diagnostic-capable stuff (which we all love because Vag-Com lets us look at it) is on a single-wire bus. (On newer cars it's two single-wire busses.)

When some component on that bus fails just wrong, it can lock the bus up. At that point, yes, you have to search the whole bus unplugging modules as you go. This failure is pathological. It could occur on ANY bus, although it's a bit easier on a simple bus like this.




It seems to me that the real problem is the dealer to warranty company interaction. The dealer needs to report the failure of the diagnostic system first, and the actual component causing it second.

1) Have your dealer find and send to the warranty company the Audi procedure for handling a case where the VAS-5051 reports an error communicating on the K line. (I'm sure somewhere Audi says unplug every module until communications are restored - and the warranty company should pay that.)

2) I would very calmly discuss with the service manager and the sales manager your position that any failure of THEIR service department to be re-imbursed from THEIR warranty company, is of course THEIR responsibility, not yours.

If my dealer sold me a car and an extended warranty (which they did) and then tried to stick me with a diagnostic bill (which they have not), I would not be very pleased! My approach would be as above - telling them that it's THEIR issue, not mine. (I know - it sounds like Monday night quarterbacking, but I've been there and done that!)
Old 08-26-2003, 01:11 PM
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Default Thanks. It is fixed now, but I am going to have to go have a talk with them.

There is no way I'm paying 1k for this BS.

-st
Old 08-26-2003, 01:13 PM
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That is more or less what I'm going to do. Thanks a lot for the input, really!
Old 08-26-2003, 01:15 PM
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No, choose D: - Return car and get your money back.
Old 08-26-2003, 01:16 PM
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You can e-mail me if you want to "talk" it over some, I've had more than my fair share of this crap!
Old 08-26-2003, 01:28 PM
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Default I might take you up on that.

The plan as of right now is to head down there and discuss this with them. Hopefully tomorrow if I have time.

I printed out your post, all relevant information, my contract, and I have notes of all my conversations.

-st
Old 08-26-2003, 01:30 PM
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Default Oh geez, cross my name off those printouts ;)

Now I'll have dealers in *ALL* parts of the country mad at me...
Old 08-26-2003, 02:16 PM
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Damn straight. (Call state attorney general consumer fraud unit first.)


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