Installed the H sport anti-sway bars and here are my comments
#1
Installed the H sport anti-sway bars and here are my comments
This info is based on a '01 4.2 with sport suspension.
I cannot see how the rear sway bar could interfere with any of the rear end linkage, unless you installed them incorrectly. The instructions clearly state to pay attention to the position of the factory anti-sway bar. It is very easy to accidently install them below the linkage instead of above.
I would highly recommend you do this install on a lift. Car ramps or a jack would be difficult because you will not have leverage to reattach the rubber exhaust mounts. The instructions state that you "may need to release the center exhaust mounts". That is the understatment of the century. Release the center rubber mounts AND one rear exhaust mount (just before the muffler tip). This will make the install much easier. You can release both rear mounts but will need to support the exhaust system. When removing the rear sway bar the instructions say to be patient. This is also an understatement. It was difficult but can be done (of course a guy that installs suspension parts for a living could do it in his sleep).
The front is a piece of cake. The only thing that needs to be done extra is on the skid plate. The new bar is so thick that you will need to cut out just a little bit of the old skid plate where the bar "feeds through" to the suspension.
Is all of this worth it? Yes without a doubt. I would buy this again. I would estimate that my understeer has been reduced by a good 50% and probably more. It's only painfully obvious still on the sharpest of corners (hair pins). Now the front end actually holds the position you point it in and I don't have to fight the steering wheel/front end. Also the "lovely" nose down when turning has been greatly reduced (almost not noticeable) and I have had to adjust my personnal sight lines now.
I did set the rear to the "aggresive setting" just for GP. This gives a little more emphisis to the front end, where as the other setting is supposed to give more of a left to right balance feel.
Again, if you don't like struggling with cars then have a shop install the rear. This install is not like bolting on a new chrome air cleaner for your '69 chevy. I would recommend you do the front yourself, even if you have very little mechanical experience. Just remember to really tighten it all up and re-check the bolts after 100 miles. Good luck!
I cannot see how the rear sway bar could interfere with any of the rear end linkage, unless you installed them incorrectly. The instructions clearly state to pay attention to the position of the factory anti-sway bar. It is very easy to accidently install them below the linkage instead of above.
I would highly recommend you do this install on a lift. Car ramps or a jack would be difficult because you will not have leverage to reattach the rubber exhaust mounts. The instructions state that you "may need to release the center exhaust mounts". That is the understatment of the century. Release the center rubber mounts AND one rear exhaust mount (just before the muffler tip). This will make the install much easier. You can release both rear mounts but will need to support the exhaust system. When removing the rear sway bar the instructions say to be patient. This is also an understatement. It was difficult but can be done (of course a guy that installs suspension parts for a living could do it in his sleep).
The front is a piece of cake. The only thing that needs to be done extra is on the skid plate. The new bar is so thick that you will need to cut out just a little bit of the old skid plate where the bar "feeds through" to the suspension.
Is all of this worth it? Yes without a doubt. I would buy this again. I would estimate that my understeer has been reduced by a good 50% and probably more. It's only painfully obvious still on the sharpest of corners (hair pins). Now the front end actually holds the position you point it in and I don't have to fight the steering wheel/front end. Also the "lovely" nose down when turning has been greatly reduced (almost not noticeable) and I have had to adjust my personnal sight lines now.
I did set the rear to the "aggresive setting" just for GP. This gives a little more emphisis to the front end, where as the other setting is supposed to give more of a left to right balance feel.
Again, if you don't like struggling with cars then have a shop install the rear. This install is not like bolting on a new chrome air cleaner for your '69 chevy. I would recommend you do the front yourself, even if you have very little mechanical experience. Just remember to really tighten it all up and re-check the bolts after 100 miles. Good luck!
#2
Was gone the last few days and just noticed all the comments on
the H-sport issues.
I cannot believe for a moment that a subframe would break from the rear sway bar unless of course you are driving a Yugo.
I also would not spend a dime, or the time, to call H-sport to discuss the front skid plate needing to be notched out. It is so minimal and hey, what do you expect? After market usually needs some "tweaking" and honestly this does not count as tweaking in my book.
I would not get rapped up around the axle about the comments that have been made. I do agree that the FRONTS put some more strain on the linkage that attachs the sway bar to frame (actually it's an A arm whre it attach's) but I will just keep an eye on this and if any cracking occurs then swap out the likage bushings. Truthfully I seriously doubt this will happen soon, if at all.
I appreciate everyones opinion on this site, but what some have no problem with others might think the sky is falling.
I cannot believe for a moment that a subframe would break from the rear sway bar unless of course you are driving a Yugo.
I also would not spend a dime, or the time, to call H-sport to discuss the front skid plate needing to be notched out. It is so minimal and hey, what do you expect? After market usually needs some "tweaking" and honestly this does not count as tweaking in my book.
I would not get rapped up around the axle about the comments that have been made. I do agree that the FRONTS put some more strain on the linkage that attachs the sway bar to frame (actually it's an A arm whre it attach's) but I will just keep an eye on this and if any cracking occurs then swap out the likage bushings. Truthfully I seriously doubt this will happen soon, if at all.
I appreciate everyones opinion on this site, but what some have no problem with others might think the sky is falling.
#3
Did my rear on ramps easily and only had to drop rear muffler hangers via removing the bolts. Then,
I just fed the bar in from the side and rotated it into position rather than having to drop the full exhaust and bring it in from behind. Love these bars as well.
#7
Wake up Milipitas! AUJ states "had to drop rear muffler hanger via bolts"
On my 4.2 the muffler hangers are rubber and do not bolt onto the exhaust sytem or frame. Maybe they bolt on to a 2.7, I would not know. BTW, the swaybars bolt onto A-arm linkage for the rear on 4.2's.
AUJ does not say a thing about the sway bar system and it's linkage, just talks about the exhaust and how he worked the sway bar into positon after unbolting the rear muffler hanger.
AUJ does not say a thing about the sway bar system and it's linkage, just talks about the exhaust and how he worked the sway bar into positon after unbolting the rear muffler hanger.
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#9
What year 4.2? My '01 has a bracket that is welded onto the
body. The rubber piece is slipped over a hook that locks into the othe side of the welded bracket. Then the bottom of the rubber piece slips over an open ended hook welded to the exhaust. This is the same setup at the center and rear of my hangers. I have no idea why Milipitas thought we were talking about the sway bar, maybe he did not read your first post entirely.
#10
Mine is an '02 which uses 3 13mm (I think) bolts to hold the pair of rear hanging elements. I think
he is talking about the front design change of the H Sports similar to the front bar on the new B6 platform.