Flaking brake rotor.
03-24-2003, 05:19 PM
#12
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Where did you get the Zimmermans from? Would you recommend them? An improvement over stock?
How do they look, that matters too! Maybe they will not superglue themselves to the rims like my stock rotors do ... hopefully.
03-24-2003, 06:17 PM
#13
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I'm quite happy with slotted Zimmermans from EBT - link inside...
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/12414/driverfront.jpg">
Picture from Seattle Scott... who has the exact same setup as me.
I think about 50 guys from this forum have bought from them... haven't heard any negatives. I have had mine for like 40k now and they're about half gone.
I've said it before but you really aren't going to see a HUGE improvement without swapping out for bigger discs and/or tougher calipers... which in turn require stronger discs... which costs money. For stock replacements, I think slotted are the safest and offer the most benefits.<ul><li><a href="http://www.eurobraketech.com">http://www.eurobraketech.com</a></li></ul>
Picture from Seattle Scott... who has the exact same setup as me.
I think about 50 guys from this forum have bought from them... haven't heard any negatives. I have had mine for like 40k now and they're about half gone.
I've said it before but you really aren't going to see a HUGE improvement without swapping out for bigger discs and/or tougher calipers... which in turn require stronger discs... which costs money. For stock replacements, I think slotted are the safest and offer the most benefits.<ul><li><a href="http://www.eurobraketech.com">http://www.eurobraketech.com</a></li></ul>
03-24-2003, 08:49 PM
#14
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Thanks for the link, but there is no pricing on their site ...
how much did these run you, if you don't mind me asking? Are there other sources for these. They look great! This may be a stupid question, but why do you have two of the wheels bolts parked in the roor? Is it just for the picture?
03-25-2003, 08:30 AM
#15
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I paid around $220 for the front set... but that was in November of 2000.
Others have reported paying around $300 for pads and discs from them.
There might be other sources... when I bought them, they were basically the ONLY source I could find that had them in stock and slotted. They slot them on location... they'll do a variety of patterns. Be sure to ask for the long slots instead of long/short.
There might be other sources... when I bought them, they were basically the ONLY source I could find that had them in stock and slotted. They slot them on location... they'll do a variety of patterns. Be sure to ask for the long slots instead of long/short.
03-25-2003, 11:56 AM
#16
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They look quite normal.......
the edges always rust fairly dramatically, it does not show any reflection on the quality of the steel at all, in spite of appearance.
If you want to replace the disks (rotors - sorry), then it is easy and straightforward. Just do it methodically and make sure you re-fit parts in the same order you removed them.
You should ALWAYS fit new pads with new disks. You will need some thread locking compound to use on the caliper bolts (you may get new ones with the pads) and also for the two caliper bracket bolts on each side.
Remember to bed in the new disks and pads gently, it is a crucial part of the life cycle for a brake disk.
If you want to replace the disks (rotors - sorry), then it is easy and straightforward. Just do it methodically and make sure you re-fit parts in the same order you removed them.
You should ALWAYS fit new pads with new disks. You will need some thread locking compound to use on the caliper bolts (you may get new ones with the pads) and also for the two caliper bracket bolts on each side.
Remember to bed in the new disks and pads gently, it is a crucial part of the life cycle for a brake disk.
03-25-2003, 07:05 PM
#17
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Sorry, but some of your info is wrong...
It's the exact opposite of what you say...
Read the link for breakin procedures.
You should breakin new pads and discs with old pads and discs.
A less than satisfactory breakin will cause numerous problems down the road.
And despite what you say Bobby's rotors are trashed IMHO.<ul><li><a href="http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm">Brake myths</a></li></ul>
Read the link for breakin procedures.
You should breakin new pads and discs with old pads and discs.
A less than satisfactory breakin will cause numerous problems down the road.
And despite what you say Bobby's rotors are trashed IMHO.<ul><li><a href="http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm">Brake myths</a></li></ul>
03-25-2003, 07:48 PM
#19
AudiWorld Super User
A few things...
"ALWAYS break in new rotors with new pads"
is wrong for a start and a gentle breakin process will cause the pads to squeak and suffer a reduced pad life.
If you follow the correct breakin procedure the pads will be smokin and suffer the toughest heat cycle in their hopefully long life.
is wrong for a start and a gentle breakin process will cause the pads to squeak and suffer a reduced pad life.
If you follow the correct breakin procedure the pads will be smokin and suffer the toughest heat cycle in their hopefully long life.