WARPED ROTORS EVERY 10-15K MILES !!
#11
See my links for how to brake in new rotors and pamper them so they don't warp...
<ul><li><a href="http://www.netwiz.net/~jds/files/a6_links.html#brake">http://www.netwiz.net/~jds/files/a6_links.html#brake</a</li></ul>
#12
It's that absolute lack of concern on Audi's part that has me looking for a new vehicle as well.
Full story to come soon but suffice it to say that I had to repair my brakes myself.
Yes, this is my 2002 vehicle on jackstands in my driveway. I've worked on the z-car in this picture for almost 15 years but never expected to see this:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/36363/onjacksf.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/36363/onjacksr.jpg">
I'm currently considering either the Nissan Z-track or the G35 coupe.
Yes, this is my 2002 vehicle on jackstands in my driveway. I've worked on the z-car in this picture for almost 15 years but never expected to see this:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/36363/onjacksf.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/36363/onjacksr.jpg">
I'm currently considering either the Nissan Z-track or the G35 coupe.
#13
So are you saying that these Coleman rotors eliminates the warping?
I'm just curious because you seem absolutely certain that the problem is the rotors and not the calipers. I surprised only because Audi doesn't actually make rotors, they buy them like everyone else. I would think that the manufacturer of the rotors would have enough experience to know if their design has a warping problem. Even severly overheated rotors don't generally warp unless the heating is uneven, ie one side or part of the rotor is hotter than another, or if there is a material problem, ie the rotors weren't properly heat treated to remove stress.
I'm not saying that you are incorrect I just want to be sure that you have seen that the aftermarket rotors surely cure the warping problem. By the way, assuming that the Coleman replirotors cure the warping, would you suppose that similar rotors from Brembo, Stoptech, etc. would also cure the problem?
I'm not saying that you are incorrect I just want to be sure that you have seen that the aftermarket rotors surely cure the warping problem. By the way, assuming that the Coleman replirotors cure the warping, would you suppose that similar rotors from Brembo, Stoptech, etc. would also cure the problem?
#14
My rotors on my CRX warped every 10-20k...
and after 160k miles, that's a lot of rotors!
The 4.2 has had it's initial set turned at around 20k, then all 4 replaced at 30k.
The S6 has had the rear rotors turned at 11k or so.
The 4.2 has had it's initial set turned at around 20k, then all 4 replaced at 30k.
The S6 has had the rear rotors turned at 11k or so.
#16
AudiWorld Super User
Re: WARPED ROTORS - long.......
I have had warped disks on many cars, VW, Peugeot, Audi and BMW.
I think the cause is not so much over-heating the disks, but parking the car while the brakes are still very hot. The reasoning behind this - assuming as per CaptainBilly's post - the manufacturers have got it right, ie cast from the correct steel, cooled correctly to relieve stresses and then machined correctly, then when fitted they are run-in correctly. Nothing should then go wrong, however, if you drive quickly and generate a lot of heat in the disks, then park with then still hot, the area of the disk that is covered by the pads will stay hot for a lot longer than the rest of the disk. It is this un-even cooling of the disk that causes the warping, not the heat generated in the first place. The answer is simple, plan your fast driving to allow a period of at least five minutes of gentle driving with as little braking as possible before parking. I do not think the ambient temp makes much difference because in the winter the disks will cool quicker while driving and in summer they will not cool down so quickly after parking.
I think the cause is not so much over-heating the disks, but parking the car while the brakes are still very hot. The reasoning behind this - assuming as per CaptainBilly's post - the manufacturers have got it right, ie cast from the correct steel, cooled correctly to relieve stresses and then machined correctly, then when fitted they are run-in correctly. Nothing should then go wrong, however, if you drive quickly and generate a lot of heat in the disks, then park with then still hot, the area of the disk that is covered by the pads will stay hot for a lot longer than the rest of the disk. It is this un-even cooling of the disk that causes the warping, not the heat generated in the first place. The answer is simple, plan your fast driving to allow a period of at least five minutes of gentle driving with as little braking as possible before parking. I do not think the ambient temp makes much difference because in the winter the disks will cool quicker while driving and in summer they will not cool down so quickly after parking.
#17
another theory...
On my previous warped rotors I saw a discolored patch the same shape as the pad. Looked to me like the pad had melted into the rotor after a panic stop or while sitting on the brakes while hot. Perhaps this area didn't generate as much heat (or more heat) during subsequent braking, leading to uneven heating and therefore warping.
I have a similar area on my new rotors. I'll post a pic sometime.
I have a similar area on my new rotors. I'll post a pic sometime.
#18
There may be a work-around, but Audi needs to come up with a solution.
It's like the old tale. "Doc, it hurts when I breathe." "Then don't breathe."
If rotors warp during non-race usage (e.g. everyday driving) then there's a problem. Folks on this list are fairly conscious of their driving and may actually remember to let brakes cool, and turbos cool, etc., but the average Joe who makes panic stop is not going to be thinking, "I'd better let off the brake to avoid warping!"
Seems to me that brake rotors are to the 21st Century what carburetors were to the 20th.
If rotors warp during non-race usage (e.g. everyday driving) then there's a problem. Folks on this list are fairly conscious of their driving and may actually remember to let brakes cool, and turbos cool, etc., but the average Joe who makes panic stop is not going to be thinking, "I'd better let off the brake to avoid warping!"
Seems to me that brake rotors are to the 21st Century what carburetors were to the 20th.
#19
DBA replacement rotors are an option for the HP-2 set up.... more......
http://www.dba.com.au
i am running DBA longlife gold rotors out of australia.. about $350 shipped.. so far, no warping issues but i am barely out of my break-in period.
anyone that is interested should do a search over on the S4 forum.. there is quite a few guys running this set-up<ul><li><a href="http://www.dba.com.au">http://www.dba.com.au</a</li></ul>
i am running DBA longlife gold rotors out of australia.. about $350 shipped.. so far, no warping issues but i am barely out of my break-in period.
anyone that is interested should do a search over on the S4 forum.. there is quite a few guys running this set-up<ul><li><a href="http://www.dba.com.au">http://www.dba.com.au</a</li></ul>
#20
Re: A little extreme. Besides, replacement rotors aren't expensive and solve the problem...
It wasn't just the rotors that made me get rid of the Audi; it was also AOA's poor customer relations, as well as other problems. In my opinion, the car is just not worth the hassle, and I get mad every time I think of just how much money I paid for it. In my opinion, there are multiple problems with Audi's design, such as bumpers that get pulled off, windshield distortion, radio & instrument panel failure, etc. I used to think that Audi made a great car, but I'm convinced now that they do not.