Very slow warm up
#11
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What engine is in your car. The smaller engine the less oil and coolant needs to be warmed up. The bigger the engine the more oil and coolant needs to be warmed up which takes longer.
The V10 in my car takes very long time to come up to operating temp. Conversely it stays warm for very long time after shut down.
Thermostats in cars in most cases fail completely. Meaning if they are stuck open the car will take very long time to reach operating temp and in winter will most likely never completely reach operating temp.
If OTOH the thermostat fails and stays closed then you have overheating car.
The V10 in my car takes very long time to come up to operating temp. Conversely it stays warm for very long time after shut down.
Thermostats in cars in most cases fail completely. Meaning if they are stuck open the car will take very long time to reach operating temp and in winter will most likely never completely reach operating temp.
If OTOH the thermostat fails and stays closed then you have overheating car.
#12
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Here are some symptoms of bad temp sensor which then screws up fuel/air mixture. Does the engine run rough after start? Does the engine blow black smoke? Any problems starting the engine after the 15 minutes with the temp gauge still indicating low temp?
#14
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The symptoms you describe are not serious enough to indicate bad thermostat or totally faulty temp sensor. I suggest that you get the car scanned for fault codes. If no fault codes then since you already ordered the temp sensor just go and install it.
I am not familiar with the 3.2L engine and where the sensor is located, but on all other VW and Audi cars it was fairly easy to access and just a matter of unhooking the connector and replacing the sensor without the need to drain coolant.
Maybe somebody with 3.2L can point you in the right direction.
#15
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One to two minutes until the fluids in the block warm up a little and before the thermostat opens.
The symptoms you describe are not serious enough to indicate bad thermostat or totally faulty temp sensor. I suggest that you get the car scanned for fault codes. If no fault codes then since you already ordered the temp sensor just go and install it.
I am not familiar with the 3.2L engine and where the sensor is located, but on all other VW and Audi cars it was fairly easy to access and just a matter of unhooking the connector and replacing the sensor without the need to drain coolant.
Maybe somebody with 3.2L can point you in the right direction.
The symptoms you describe are not serious enough to indicate bad thermostat or totally faulty temp sensor. I suggest that you get the car scanned for fault codes. If no fault codes then since you already ordered the temp sensor just go and install it.
I am not familiar with the 3.2L engine and where the sensor is located, but on all other VW and Audi cars it was fairly easy to access and just a matter of unhooking the connector and replacing the sensor without the need to drain coolant.
Maybe somebody with 3.2L can point you in the right direction.
#16
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I'm still learning the Audi, it does take a while for my 4.2L to warm up as well, about 8 miles in 40 mph light city traffic. Once it warms up though it's rock steady at the operating temp, seems normal to me.
If you had a thermostat failed open it likely wouldn't ever reach operating temperature in the winter. If it was inconsistent then you'd see the temp bouncing up and down as you drive. Seen those conditions a few times over the years as well.
#17
My 3.2 takes excessively long to warm up too. I mean, I can drive all over town without the car ever warming up completely. It also seems like you can get it to warm up faster if you drive it a bit harder (in stop and go traffic) after it initially starts warming up, but if you're going 80 you'd just have to wait it out.
I have to admit, as the temps keep dropping I'm starting to hate the 3.2 more and more. It seems to have a lot more difficulty starting up properly when the engine is cold (last night was in the single digits for example). Sometimes It'll start just fine (with a long 3-5 second crank, which I hear is normal) or sometimes it'll sort of "hesitate" and then start. I recently got the timing chains replaced so I'm not sure what else to do.
I have to admit, as the temps keep dropping I'm starting to hate the 3.2 more and more. It seems to have a lot more difficulty starting up properly when the engine is cold (last night was in the single digits for example). Sometimes It'll start just fine (with a long 3-5 second crank, which I hear is normal) or sometimes it'll sort of "hesitate" and then start. I recently got the timing chains replaced so I'm not sure what else to do.
#18
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My 3.2 takes excessively long to warm up too. I mean, I can drive all over town without the car ever warming up completely. It also seems like you can get it to warm up faster if you drive it a bit harder (in stop and go traffic) after it initially starts warming up, but if you're going 80 you'd just have to wait it out.
I have to admit, as the temps keep dropping I'm starting to hate the 3.2 more and more. It seems to have a lot more difficulty starting up properly when the engine is cold (last night was in the single digits for example). Sometimes It'll start just fine (with a long 3-5 second crank, which I hear is normal) or sometimes it'll sort of "hesitate" and then start. I recently got the timing chains replaced so I'm not sure what else to do.
I have to admit, as the temps keep dropping I'm starting to hate the 3.2 more and more. It seems to have a lot more difficulty starting up properly when the engine is cold (last night was in the single digits for example). Sometimes It'll start just fine (with a long 3-5 second crank, which I hear is normal) or sometimes it'll sort of "hesitate" and then start. I recently got the timing chains replaced so I'm not sure what else to do.
I wonder if a meth injection system would help
with the mpg.
There's also a rubbing sound when reversing.
Might be a wheel bearing, not sure.
#19
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Replaced the temp sensor today. Time will tell whether it makes a difference or not.
There was some grime/dirt around the seal and the sensor itself looked like it had seen better days. If nothing else, preventative maintenance, delusional reassurance.
There was some grime/dirt around the seal and the sensor itself looked like it had seen better days. If nothing else, preventative maintenance, delusional reassurance.
#20
I think it just might be completely normal for the car not to fully "warm" up depending on the driving, but I can't say for sure since I never owned the car since brand new.
One thing I've noticed is that during city stop and go drives, the car will warm up up to the 50% mark as normal. Hit the highway, and then it dips and stays at the 30-40% mark, but never reaches 50%. Go back to stop and go traffic driving and it warms back up again to 50%. So I'm just thinking that since its really cold, the engine never really fully gets that hot; at least during highway driving.
One thing I did notice is that when the temps drop below 0F/-17C the car starts up and idles around 1000rpm instead of idling at 1200 rpm then falling down to 1000rpm. Anyone know what gives? The car usually doesn't struggle to start or anything it just starts, does a weird 200-300 dip in rpm as if its gonna die,then it just idles at 1000 rpm. It never shoots up to around 1800rpm like it normally does when you start it.
Anyone know if thats normal or not?
I can get a video for you guys to illustrate my point.
One thing I've noticed is that during city stop and go drives, the car will warm up up to the 50% mark as normal. Hit the highway, and then it dips and stays at the 30-40% mark, but never reaches 50%. Go back to stop and go traffic driving and it warms back up again to 50%. So I'm just thinking that since its really cold, the engine never really fully gets that hot; at least during highway driving.
One thing I did notice is that when the temps drop below 0F/-17C the car starts up and idles around 1000rpm instead of idling at 1200 rpm then falling down to 1000rpm. Anyone know what gives? The car usually doesn't struggle to start or anything it just starts, does a weird 200-300 dip in rpm as if its gonna die,then it just idles at 1000 rpm. It never shoots up to around 1800rpm like it normally does when you start it.
Anyone know if thats normal or not?
I can get a video for you guys to illustrate my point.