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You’re asking the wrong question IMHO. No one can tell you remotely which cam needs to be moved to get the correct alignment. You first pin the crank to get it locked in the correct position, then you fit the cam locks and if one of both cams are out of alignment it will be clear, because the cam lock will not screw down easily onto that cam. You will have to observe for yourself which cam this is, or perhaps it will be both? When you observe which cam or cams are out, you then will need to adjust them to the correct position and fit the cam lock to hold them there in synchronisation with the pinned crank (which gives zero numbers on block 93)
I don’t understand what you’ve said about how you got to this position. Were the cam locks on or not? You said they were, then you said you took the exhaust cam adjuster off to rotate the cam to be able to fit the cam adjuster?
You’re asking the wrong question IMHO. No one can tell you remotely which cam needs to be moved to get the correct alignment. You first pin the crank to get it locked in the correct position, then you fit the cam locks and if one of both cams are out of alignment it will be clear, because the cam lock will not screw down easily onto that cam. You will have to observe for yourself which cam this is, or perhaps it will be both? When you observe which cam or cams are out, you then will need to adjust them to the correct position and fit the cam lock to hold them there in synchronisation with the pinned crank (which gives zero numbers on block 93)
I don’t understand what you’ve said about how you got to this position. Were the cam locks on or not? You said they were, then you said you took the exhaust cam adjuster off to rotate the cam to be able to fit the cam adjuster?
Yes the cam locks were in place. Prior to putting it into place I had to rotate the exhaust cam a little. Currently I have the crankshaft at TDC with the locking bolt in place, bank 2 cam lock in place and the intake cam on bank 1 in the correct position. The exhaust cam in bank 1 is a little out of alignment. So I should just rotate the exhaust cam until the cam lick will attach?
Yes, with the crank locked with the pin fully screwed down, both cams need to be with their flats level and holes upwards so the cam lock screws down easily by hand. If you need to move the exhaust cam to get this alignment right, then do so. When you have the cam locks bolted fully down and crank is still pinned, then you are fully in time, so the only thing left to accomplish is to get the cam adjusters bolted on with chain correctly pretensioned.
Another question. Is it possible to remove and then put back on the cam adjusters without pinning back the tensioner piston? I have tried this before and have not been able to get them on. As previously posted if I remove the tensioner and then compress the piston it always gets stuck.
I don’t know, I never tried that, but do you need to fully remove the cam adjuster? Loosen the bolt so it is free to rotate, so you can correct the cam orientation but without taking the bolt out fully. That would be my suggestion.
if you do need to reset the tensioner, maybe try compressing it less than the last time? Perhaps then it will spring out again. Not sure on that one.
if you do need to reset the tensioner, maybe try compressing it less than the last time? Perhaps then it will spring out again. Not sure on that one.
Hm.. I think it have to be pushed all in.. I will try my old tensioner if I remember tonight 👍
Oh and +1 to that about only loosen tensioner bolt and then line up cams.
Cheers! /H
edit:noo...no need for any sideway pressure..dooh..
thedoge! and..for need to know on reset..the piston need to be pressed allway in!...se pic!
should work if you get the "rail" circled in pic to touch/or almost touch the housing! (worked atleast everytime when i tried on my old tensioner.
cheers!/H
edit 2: only used pliers to be able to hold while taking pic! /H
After messing with this for over 2 weeks I got the block 093 numbers back to something that will at least let me drive the vehicle. Going to take a break from this for a few weeks to regroup and attempt to figure out what is going wrong. I know that this last time that I had the crankshaft holding bolt in the indentation in the crankshaft and both banks had the cam holders in a flat position. I did have to rotate the exhaust on bank 1 to get it to align properly. The only thing I can think of at this time as to why I cannot get the numbers good on bank 1 is how I am pretensioning the chain. I am applying a little pressure on the exhaust adjuster in a clockwise direction as you are sitting in the car.
HRC4U, thanks for the info. I have had 2 new tensioners that when I compress them all of the way in they just stay in.
After messing with this for over 2 weeks I got the block 093 numbers back to something that will at least let me drive the vehicle. Going to take a break from this for a few weeks to regroup and attempt to figure out what is going wrong. I know that this last time that I had the crankshaft holding bolt in the indentation in the crankshaft and both banks had the cam holders in a flat position. I did have to rotate the exhaust on bank 1 to get it to align properly. The only thing I can think of at this time as to why I cannot get the numbers good on bank 1 is how I am pretensioning the chain. I am applying a little pressure on the exhaust adjuster in a clockwise direction as you are sitting in the car.
It’s up to you, but I would be inclined to stop fiddling with it now. Just keep an eye on the numbers. The worst that’s going to happen is the new tensioner fails at some point, and going back in there to fix that is no more work than carrying on chasing zero numbers at this time. I don’t know what accounts for the difficulties you’ve been having, but chain stretch has to be a possibility. Hopefully you checked the tension in the various accessible sections of the chain before putting the covers back on, and as long as you don’t have any part of the chain taut like a violin string then I don’t imagine you should have ongoing problems.
Originally Posted by thedoge
HRC4U, thanks for the info. I have had 2 new tensioners that when I compress them all of the way in they just stay in.
I wonder if they changed the tensioner design at some point, maybe to help deal with the epidemic of tensioner failures which blight this engine? I also have a tensioner with a piston which is not coming out any time soon, no matter how hard I squeeze it in. I’d love to be able to revive it so if anyone does figure out how to release a stuck fully compressed tensioner piston, hopefully it gets posted to this thread.
09-07-2016, 03:03 PM
